Charm Knit Along & Book Giveaway

The other day I was emailing with my blogger friend Lisette and she mentioned she was planning to kn

Mini-Me Cherry

Some people knit their mom a new hat or scarf for Mother's Day.

Our employee Cherry knit her

Noro Magazine Spring/Summer 2013

The new issue of Noro Magazine is starting to arrive in yarn stores across the USA!

This issue h

 

Top Down Mittens: Thumb

January 5, 2013 in Ella Rae, Free, Mitts, Tips, Uncategorized

The top down mittens I’ve been knitting using Ella Rae Lace Merino Worsted yarn are almost done!

I’ve knit both thumbs and just have to finish off the cuff.

Now, I’m going to provide the pattern for the thumb, but you’ll have to remember you’re not locked into my numbers. You have to trust your knitter’s instinct and pick up more stitches to close up the holes in the corners.

The only thing you’ll have to worry about is to have a number divisible by 3 (so 18 or 21 stitches) in order to have the decreases work properly.

Late to the party? You can find the start of the mittens here. And the Thumb Gusset here.

Thumb Pattern

 

Transfer the stitches for the thumb from the holders to two needles. (16 sts)

Attach the working yarn to the bottom of the thumb and knit across 12 sts.

Pick up one or more on the side of the hand to close the gap.

Knit across 4 sts on top of thumb.

Pick up one or more on side of hand to close gap.

You will not have anywhere from 18 to 22 on your needles. Divide stitches as evenly as possible on three needles. Attach a marker to this row for measuring later.

Knit in the round until thumb measures about 1″ from picked up sts.

If necessary, decrease as many sts as necessary on the next round to get to either 18 or 21 sts. (So if you have 22 sts, K2tog once. If you have 20 sts, K2tog, k half way around, k2tog, k to end)

Knit one round even.

Begin thumb decreases: K2tog at the beginning of each needle. K remaining sts on needle. (3 sts decreased)

K one round even

Alternate decrease round and knit even round until 6 sts remain.

Cut yarn, leaving a generous tail. Draw tail through remaining sts and pull tight.

Finish knitting cuffs. Bind off in rib pattern.

Weave in ends. Go play in the snow.

See what I mean about using your knitter’s instinct for the thumb? It’s good practice in visualizing the end result you want and just making the stitches get there.

One my first thumb I had 19 sts after picking up in the corners. After knitting for an inch, I knit two together at the beginning of the round because I think it’s easier to decrease with even numbers.

On the second thumb I had 18 sts after picking up in the corners, so I didn’t have to worry about  decreasing until I got to the top of the thumb. The finished thumbs still match nicely.

Transferring Stitches

Now, an experienced knitter who has used a crochet chain provisional cast on won’t have any trouble transferring the stitches from the chain to the needles in order to knit the thumb.

A knitter who hasn’t used this method before might be puzzled. I had a little trouble getting picture of the process, but these should put you on the correct path.

If you do an internet search for “crochet provisional cast on” you’ll find options for videos and other blog posts about it. However, it might be easier to head down to your local yarn store for help in person. The other blog post pictures I saw did seem much more clear.

First, take a look at the picture up above and compare it to your own knitting. You can see nice, normal looking stitches pierced by the crochet chain. You’ll want to slide your knitting needle under the right hand leg of each stitch.

Really, you’ll just want to get the stitches onto your needle. You can worry about untwisting them later.

Once you’ve inserted your needle you can pull on the crochet chain and it will pop of out the knit stitch.

Some directions will have you just pull out the crochet chain all at once and trust your stitches not to run. I’m too nervous for that, so I take the more fiddly route and slowly pull the chain out as I go along.

You’ll have to decide how brave you are, and how slippery your yarn is, before you select a method.

This might be one of those techniques where you want to set up a practice piece to try it out before you apply it to your project.

The Length of a Cuff

You’ll remember from my last blog post that I was planning to knit the cuffs for at least 2 inches before working the thumb.

That’s just what I did.

The 2″ cuffs seemed rather short to me. Since I had plenty of yarn left I unpicked the bind off, reattached my yarn, and continued knitting the cuffs.

While the ribbing draws in, you might want to consider going down one needle size to make a more snug cuff. You might also want to knit a few more rows of stockinette stitch between the bottom of the thumb gusset and the start of the cuff ribbing.

Try it on and see what you think.

Our Facebook Fan Joyce S. says:

Way back when, I made mittens with a 2″-3″ cuff and a 1″ stocking knit before starting the thumb. Cuff would be long enough to tuck under coat sleeve and the space before the thumb made it fit better

After knitting on the cuff for a while I realized I didn’t know how long I should make it. The mittens are big for me, which is making it hard for me to judge the fit. They actually fit my husband nicely. I used his hand to judge the thumb size and the 2″ cuff was definitely short on him.

These mittens are for a friend in another state, so I can’t have her try them on. And they are sort of a surprise, so I don’t want to ask how long she’d like them.

Since I couldn’t ask my friend, I asked our Facebook fans.

The general range is from 2″ to 6″ with many people saying it depends on the person who will wear it. Many people like the cuff to be long enough to tuck into their coat sleeve.

Jennifer DD says:

Male or female? I’d use the Stephanie Purl McFee rules – use an index finger length or index finger to the first knuckle.

Amanda E gave me a giggle with her suggestion of:

Elbow length,’cuz elbow length mittens sound awesome.

Cali had an interesting guideline:

I do a standard hand width past the bottom of the thumb hole.

At this point, my cuffs are 4″ long and I still have a decent amount of yarn left.

I think I’m going to continue the cuff until I run out of yarn. That way my friend has options. She can wear them long or fold them down for extra warmth.

And if she doesn’t want a really long cuff she can ask one of the knitters near her (and there are plenty!) to shorten it for her. Since I’m ending at the cuff it will be a simple matter for them to unravel a bit and bind off.

What these long cuffs really mean is that my Top Down Mittens are a one skein project. Hooray! You will just need one hank of Ella Rae Lace Merino Worsted to knit your own pair.

This 100% Superwash Merino Wool yarn comes in a mix of 36 semi-solid and variegated colors. Which one would you use?

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Top Down Mittens: Thumb Holes & Gusset

January 2, 2013 in Ella Rae, Mitts, Tips

When last you saw my green mittens (um, yesterday) knit using Ella Rae Lace Merino Worsted yarn I had knit the hand to the point where I was ready to add the thumb hole.

For mittens (and gloves) that are knit from the cuff to the fingers you’ll reach a point (usually just above the cuff) where you’ll start increasing for the thumb gusset. The gusset is to accommodate the extra width the base of the thumb gives to your hand.

In that style thumb you increase to a set number of stitches between your markers then either bind them off or place them on a stitch holder. Then you cast on new stitches to replace the missing stitches and continue knitting the hand.

You can see that type of thumb being used in the Chadwick Owl Arm Warmers I knit for my aunt last month.

Provisional Cast On

For my Top Down Mittens I’m going to build the thumb gusset in reverse.

First you place stitches on the hand on a holder for the top of the thumb hole. Next you cast on many stitches for the bottom of the thumb hole. Then you decrease all those extra stitches away to create the gusset.

Provisional cast on

Go under the bump on the back of the chain

Instead of just using a “backward e” cast on to bridge the gap of the thumb hole I decided to use a crochet chain provisional cast on.

This has a bit more stability than the “backward e” method and will also give me live stitches to use when I’m ready to knit the thumb since I’ll be able to unzip the crochet chain and transfer the stitches to a knitting needle.

If you use the backward e, or another closed cast on, you’ll have to pick up stitches along the edge of the thumb hole when you’re ready to knit your thumb.

To work this type of provisional cast on you’ll want a length of contrasting color yarn in a similar weight to your main yarn. I’m using a scrap of Sublime Extra Fine Merino Wool DK.

Work a crochet chain of more stitches than you’ll need. In this case I planned to pick up 12 stitches so I made a chain 20 stitches long. I often find that some of the chains are useable so having extra saves trouble down the line.

Take a look at the chain. One side will look like little Vs reminiscent of a column of knit stitches. The other side will have little bumps. You want to work on the bump side.

Insert your knitting needle under the bump and knit it as you normally would. That is what I’m doing in the picture, which just proves that one picture is worth a thousand words!

After you’ve picked up all your stitches in the crochet chain bumps you just resume knitting on the hand as though nothing unusual happened.

Oh! It’s helpful to place a stitch marker on the right hand needle before you start picking up the stitches on the chain and then another one when you’ve finished. That will target you’re gusset decreases.

Other Applications

I’m using the crochet chain provisional cast for my thumb hole, but there are many other places you can use it.

If you are working toe up socks you can start with this provisional cast on in combination with a short row toe.

You can use it for inserting a pocket into a sweater or cardigan.

Sometimes scarves have a pattern that has to be “upright.” In that case you might knit two separate pieces that are grafted together. You can use this provisional cast on in that situation.

Basically, if you want to have access to live stitches at a point in the future this might be a good option.

thumb holes

Yeah, thumb holes!

Pattern! Thumb hole & Gusset

The start of the mittens are in yesterday’s blog post.

After working the hand from the fingers down to the desired length start your thumb holes.

Right mitten:

Round 1: K22, place last 4 sts worked on a holder for later, K to end of round.

Round 2: K18, Pm (place marker), PU and knit 12 sts from crochet chain, PM, K to end

Round 3: K even

Round 4 (decrease round): K to marker, SM (slip marker) SSK, k to 2 sts before next marker, K2tog, SM, K to end

Round 5: K even

Alternate Decrease Round and Knit even round until you have 46 sts.

Next round: K2tog between markers.

Knit one round even.

Next round: Decrease one stitch to get to 44 sts total (I worked a k2tog in line with the other gusset decreases to keep thing neat.)

Knit one round even.

Left Mitten:

K6, Place last 4 sts worked on a holder, k to end.

K2, PM, PU 12 sts from crochet chain, PM, k to end.

Work shaping as for Right Mitten.

Cuff: Things are getting tricky

I plan to work a K2, P2 rib for the cuff.

I say things are getting tricky because I’m not sure how far my yarn will get me. Remember, I’m knitting these in real time as I’m posting! If I run out of yarn I’ll have learned my lesson and will finish the project before I start posting so we’ll all know what to expect. haha.

My plan is to knit the cuffs for 2″, break the yarn, knit the thumbs, and use any remaining yarn to expend the cuffs.

If you aren’t feeling daring you can always just knit the cuff and thumb in an alternate yarn from the start. The really safe thing to do would be buy to hanks of yarn at the beginning so you don’t have to worry about quantities!

2 At A Time

As you can see in these pictures, and as people on our Facebook page have already guessed, I’m knitting the mittens 2-at-a-time.

2 at a time

I use dpns and a circ to keep things organized

Usually people use two circular needles when they make socks or mittens two at a time.

I like to be different and use one circular and a set of double pointed needles instead. I find this system better enables me to keep track of where I am and see the flow of the knitting.

See, you have half the project on one needle and have the project on the other needle. You have to treat the halves as a single row or you’ll get all confused and end up working one mitten and ignoring the other, which defeats the purpose of working them simultaneously in order to keep them even!

By “working them as a single row’ I mean you have to knit both palms and then both tops in order. If you are going to put the project down you should make sure you are at the side. Don’t stop in the middle!

Some people use two different length circular needles (so a 24″ and a 32″) or two different styles as a cue for where they are. With my system I know that I’ll knit all the double pointed needles first. Then I’ll use the two ends of the circular needle to knit those stitches.

You can probably take a class for knitting projects two at a time at your local yarn store. They’ll probably offer it as a sock class since that seems to be the most common application. If you’ve been wanting to learn to knit socks you’ll be getting two techniques at once!

There are also probably videos available, but you can’t ask a video questions!

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On The Needles: Top-Down Mittens

January 2, 2013 in Ella Rae, Mitts

Happy New Year!

Mittens and champagne

Happy New Year!

I hope you sent 2012 off in fine fashion and are revved up to make 2013 a year full of fun, happiness, and yarn!

You will not be surprised to hear that I welcomed the New Year with yarn in one hand, a champagne toast in the other, a kiss from my beloved husband.

mitten start

Doesn't look like much yet.

If you are a fan of our Facebook page my project will look familiar because I was teasing you with obscure pictures over the weekend.

When I posted this picture most people guessed I was working on a toe-up sock. While that is a reasonable assumption, I’m actually working on a pair of top-down mittens.

I started them using “Judy’s Magic Cast On“, which is a popular start for toe up socks.

The advantages of working mittens fingers down are similar to those of working socks toe up.

In my opinion it’s easier to control the length of the fingers when working top down. You can try the mitten on and when it reaches you’re thumb it’s long enough. The thumb acts as an anchor as opposed to cuff-up mittens that can slide around when you’re trying them on.

I also think it’s easier to make the cuff as long as you want when working fingers down. Again, the mitten is anchored by your fingers and thumb so you get a more accurate fit.

Finally, if you run out of yarn it makes more sense to have a different colored cuff then to have your finger tips a different color.

mittens

Same yarn, different looks

Mittens, like socks, move along quickly. That is lucky because these mittens were a long time coming.

At the end of last winter my friend Judy explained the lining had worn out of her a pair of old fashioned leather mittens and asked whether it would be possible for me to knit her a new lining. I said yes, but it was already spring time so I had months, and months before she would need them.

Of course, now winter is in full swing and I’m frantically knitting!

I’m using Ella Rae Lace Merino Worsted yarn in color #2-Greens. This 100% Superwash Merino Wool yarn comes in 218 yard hanks, so I’m hoping it will be enough for the pair. If not I have some black Classic Wool on standby for the cuff.

Wool is a great choice for mittens because it is warm, durable, and absorbent. Did you know that wool can continue to keep you warm even when it’s wet?

The Lace Merino Worsted will be soft and cozy for Judy’s fingers, but they will also be long lasting because yarn has a multiplied structure with a good twist.

first mitten

A nice swirly pattern

After starting the first mitten I decided to work them two-at-a-time to ensure they come out even.

I was also afraid of accidentally working two right mittens! By working them at the same time I was sure to place my thumbs correctly.

second mitten

A nice striped pattern

The mittens are turning into an interesting example of how hand-dyed yarn can have different results.

I’m working with both ends of the same ball of yarn, on the same knitting needles, with the same gauge and stitch count. The colors in the first mitten are coming up in a random, specked pattern, while the second mitten is coming up with stripes.

When you get those bands of color in a hand-dyed yarn is referred to as “pooling” or “flashing.” Some people don’t like pooling and will go to great lengths to avoid it.

The easiest way to do that is to use either two balls of yarn or the two tails of one ball of yarn and alternate working two rows from each. You work two rows because it makes it easier to swap your working yarn: the knit row takes you out and the purl row brings you back.

Other options are to work pattern stitches since the texture will draw up the yarn at a different rate and possibly break up the pooling. There are pattern books devoted to knitting with hand dyed yarns to use the unique properties to their best advantage. You should be able to find them at your local yarn store.

The Pattern So Far

At this point you are probably wondering what pattern I’m using so you can knit a pair of warm mittens of your own.

Well, I’m making them up as I go along, but I can share what I have so far. Knit slowly so I can keep ahead of you, ok? Experienced knitters will probably have better luck since the pattern isn’t finished yet.

Size: 8 1/2″ circumference. (I’m aiming for 1/2″ of ease for an 8″ circumference hand.)

Yarn: Ella Rae Lace Merino Worsted. At least one ball, maybe two.

Needles: US 6 dpns, or size needed to obtain gauge.

Gauge: 5.5 sts and 8 rows = 1″ in st st in the round.

Cast on 16 sts using Judy’s Magic Cast On (8 sts each on two needles)

K16

First needle: K1, M1R, K across to last stitch, M1L, K1. Repeat for second needle. (4 sts increased)

K even, dividing sts over 4 needles.

Alternate increase row (increasing at the sides of the mitten as established) and knit even row to 48 sts.

Work even until piece measures 5 1/2″ from cast on (or desired length).

The thumb hole will be next, but I have to figure it out still.

Stay tuned!

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Baby Booties and a Book Review

December 28, 2012 in Elsebeth Lavold, Socks

The New Born Baby Hat I knit for my friends earlier in the week took so little yarn that I had more than half the ball of Elsebeth Lavold Favorite Wool I used left over.

So I knit a second hat (my cousin is due to have a baby in early January).

Newborn hat

A little hat for a little head

I still had quite a bit of the yarn left so I thought I’d push my luck and try to make a pair of baby booties as well.

I wasn’t feeling very creative and decided to use an existing pattern where someone else had already done the hard work of designing the booties.

Happily, I remembered the was a small and simple pattern in the back of “Knitting in Plain English” by Maggie Righetti.

Baby booties

Little Frankenstein booties!

The pattern in the book calls for a seed stitch edge to match the sweater and bonnet patterns that are also in the book, but I made a garter stitch edge instead to match my hat.

Aren’t they fun little Frankenstein booties?

They knit up very quickly and don’t take much yarn at all. However, I did use the rest of my ball of yarn and was starting to get nervous on the second booty.

Considering I got two little hats and a pair of booties out of the one ball of Favorite Wool I think I did a pretty good job of using it up!

The three patterns in the book are learning patterns, which means they are simple for an experienced knitter but offer challenges to improve your skills for a beginner or even intermediate knitters.

The booties are good practice for knitting in the round, but not really instructive for learning socks since they don’t have the same construction as regular sock would.

There was only one tricky part in the pattern. When you are done knitting the booty, the pattern says to turn in inside out and work a three needle bind off to close the bottom.

booty done

Turn it inside out, what?

I sat there for a minute looking at what you see here and tried to figure out how I would get my long double pointed needles through that little bitty sole without loosing all my stitches.

I actually started to slide the project toward one end of the needles thinking that would make it easier to swing them through.

Luckily, before I got to far with that effort, my common sense returned and I realized I was approaching the project from the wrong end.

booty flipped

Push the booty, not the needles.

I didn’t have to push the needles through the booty. I had to push the booty through the needles! Sometimes the solution is too simple.

A quick bind off and I was done.

Of course, the three needle bind off creates a ridge on the inside of the booty, but these aren’t really walking socks. If you want to avoid the ridge I don’t see why you can’t Kitchener stitch the bottom shut instead.

Knitting in Plain English

This is a good book to have in your library. You should pick up a copy the next time you’re at your local yarn store.

It’s probably more helpful for a beginner knitter as it provides a lot of basic information, but even as an experienced knitter (I only bought my copy last year) I picked up some tips and useful information.

There were also good reminders about how to do some techniques better and to not get stressed out over your knitting.

As with any book not everyone will find it universally appealing. Personally, I like Righetti’s writing style. She’s been in the business for a while and it was interesting to see her contrast how things were done when she first started compared to how they are done these days.

For instance, she says when she first started out knitters were more likely to make up their own patterns on the fly. Or the staff at the yarn store would design simple sweaters to a customers specifications.

These days we have access to so many patterns that service is no longer necessary. Actually, there are a few specialty stores that will still do custom designs, but I think it’s fairly costly.

Along those lines, I’ve seen information in the Knitting Fever archives about a primitive computer system local yarn stores could purchase that would produce custom patterns. Of course, these days you can purchase a software program that you can use in the comfort of your own home.

Lacking the special software, you can also fall back on “The Knitting Architect” on our website, which walks you through the basics of sweater design. I would also recommend Righetti’s “Sweater Design in Plain English” if customizing sweaters is something you want to pursue.

Whoops! I just wandered far from my topic, didn’t I? Since we’re wandering, which reference books would you recommend?

Baby Booties and hat

Look! A set!

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Newborn Baby Hat

December 24, 2012 in Elsebeth Lavold, Free, Hats

A few days ago my friends sent me a picture of their new baby wearing the hat I had knit for their first baby three years ago.

Three years! They’d kept my hat safe for future use.

I was so flattered and excited that I had to knit them another one right away. They are in a New England state so they’ll need winter wear for him. Isn’t it great when our gifts are used and appreciated?

Personally, when I knit or crochet a gift I want to see it used. None of this “It’s too special and will wear out” nonsense for me! If you wear it out I can make you another one.

Newborn hat

A little hat for a little head

This little hat took 14 grams of Elsebeth Lavold Favorite Wool yarn. Really, I weighed it. Since Favorite Wool comes in 50 gram balls you’ll be able to make a couple hats, or maybe matching socks or mittens, from one ball.

Newborn Baby Hat

Size: About 14″ circumference. About 3 3/4″ tall

Materials:

Yarn: Elsebeth Lavold Favorite Wool (100% Peruvian Wool), less than one ball

Needles: US8 Double pointed needles or size needed to obtain gauge

Gauge: 4 sts x 4 rows = 1″ in garter stitch in the round.

 

Abbreviations:

CO-Cast on
Dec-Decrease
K-Knit
K2tog-Knit two stitches together
P-Purl
P2tog-purl two stitches together
St(s)-Stitch(es)

NOTE: This hat is worked in Garter Stitch in the round. You have to alternate knit and purl rounds.

The Pattern:

CO 48 sts.

Join to work in the round being careful not to twist stitches. Place marker for beginning of round. Distribute sts evenly on four needles (12 sts each needle).

Beginning with a knit round, work in garter stitch in the round (knit one round, purl one round) for 16 rounds or about 2″ from cast on edge.

Decrease round: *K2tog, k4. Repeat from * around

Work 4 rounds even in garter stitch

Decrease round: *P2tog, P3. Repeat from * around

Work 3 rounds even in garter stitch.

Decrease round: *P2tog, P2. Repeat from * around

Work 2 rounds even in garter stitch.

Decrease round: *K2tog, K1. Repeat from * around.

Work 1 row even in garter stitch.

Decrease round: K2tog around (8 sts remain)

Leave a reasonable tail (6″ or so) and cut yarn. Use a darning needle to draw tail through remaining sts. Remove knitting needles and pull tail tight to close top.

Weave in ends.

Newborn hat 2

No babies were around to model for me.

Lacking a baby to use a a model, I put the hat on this canister of bread crumbs to try to give you an idea of the size. Almost all of us have breadcrumbs in the house, right? My use of this particular brand of breadcrumbs does not constitute an official endorsement (haha).

Newborn hat 3

Of course babies have round tops.

Here’s a picture of the top. Of course, unlike bread crumbs, babies have round tops, which will be much more flattering to the hat!

I used Favorite Wool color #26-Prussian Blue because my friends have a new baby boy. I like primary and strong colors for babies. I think they are a nice change of pace from the usual pastels used for baby garments.

Favorite Wool Tower

Just a few of the great colors available.

Favorite Wool is available in 34 colors, including some pastels, so you can be more traditional if you want.

I hope you enjoy making this little hat. If you do make one, share a picture on our Facebook wall. I’d love to see it.

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12/12/12 Scarf Curling

December 20, 2012 in Juniper Moon Farm Yarns, Scarves, Tips, Uncategorized

When I thought up the 12/12/12 scarf in the middle of the night my idea was to capture the date in yarn.

I wasn’t alert enough to consider that 12 sts in stockinette stitch on either side would curl right up.

This issue became rapidly apparent to me when I finally started knitting the scarf that evening.

Stockinette Stitch curls

Stockinette Stitch sides curl right up

Of course, I had to follow through with the pattern as I’d presented it so you could see how it would turn out.

Curling stockinette stitch is something with which all knitters struggle. Either you are a new knitter wondering why it happens or you are an experienced knitter trying to prevent it.

In her book “The Principles of Knitting”, June Hemmons Hiatt explains the curling happens because of the shape of the stitches. She points out that the stitches are pulled tight at the bottom by the row below and flair out at the top. This creates tension in the fabric and causes the curl.

Combat the Curl!

Now that we know why the curl happens, what can we do to manage it?

First you have to decide whether it’s really an issue for your project.

Part of me wonders whether it really matters that a scarf is curling since it’s just going to get folded and bunched up anyway. But I do want options for how I wear it and don’t want my hard work to be hidden.

If this was part of a sweater the curling wouldn’t matter since the pieces would be stabilized when they are sewn together. In the case of a sweater, the curl only matters when you are trying to flatten the pieces out for seaming.

When I posted a picture of the curled up scarf on our Facebook page many people jumped in with suggestions about how to fix it.

Block It

You’ll want to take into account the washing instructions for the yarn and the durability of the project when deciding on a method.

For this scarf using Juniper Moon Farm Chadwick yarn I could soak it in cold water, gently remove the excess water, and pin it in place.

I could also use a spray bottle to mist the scarf before pinning it in place instead of soaking it.

Steaming it with an iron might work as well.

The problem with blocking is that it wears off. Especially on a scarf, which gets bunched up when you wear it.

I would need something more permanent.

Work a Slip Stitch Edge

This is just how it sounds. You slip the first stitch of the row instead of working it.

You slip it opposite of how the stitch is presenting. So if you are looking at a knit stitch you would slip it purlwise. If you’re looking at a purl stitch slip it knitwise.

This also makes a nice, neat edge.

Honestly, I didn’t think that would work in this case because there was such a wide expanse of stockinette to contend with. I didn’t even try it. but you might want to give it a whirl for educational purposes so you better understand the method and how it behaves.

Work an Edging

This was the winning idea.

Of course, by working an edging I was getting away from the 12/12/12 theme, but I decided an un-curled scarf was more important than the theme!

Cable & Rib sides

Ribbing helps a bit.

The first edging I tried was a 4×4 ribbing.

In long hand that translates to:

p4, k4, p4, k12, p4, k4, p4

K4, p4, k4, p12, k4, p4, k4

Repeat for 12 rows total.

P4, k4, p4, C12B, p4, k4, p4

etc.

You can see that after several rows of that I got bored and started adding cables to the K4 column on either side of the central cable.

The small cable on the right is crossed to the back while the small cable on the left is crossed to the front.

I started crossing them at the same time I crossed the central cable to make it easy to remember. For a different look you can cross the small cables at a different time than the central cable. For instance, if you were starting the scarf from the beginning, you can cross the small cables for the first time on the 6th row and then again 12 rows later on the 18th row, but still cross the big, central cable every 12th row.

Or cross the small cables more or less frequently. But you get the idea that there are many options.

As you can see in the picture the outside edges are still curling in a bit. I think in this case a slip stitch edge would help since it’s only fighting against 4 sts.

Seed stitch sides

Seed stitch flattens it out

The next edging I tried was seed stitch.

As you know the first row of seed stitch is a K1, P1 rib across. Then on the second row you purl the knits and knit the purls.

I maintained a two purl stitch buffer on either side of the central cable.

The seed stitch flattens the scarf right out. Like a pancake!

That’s because there aren’t smooth columns of stitches to pull against each other and cause the curl.

This is actually a pretty classic scarf pattern and you’ll find many examples of it at your local yarn store using different yarns.

The only problem with it is that all that switching back and forth between knits and purls can slow you down.

Full scarf

You can see it flattening out with the different side options.

Here is a picture of the full scarf. You can really see how the different sections are behaving. It’s interesting to see the scarf getting flatter as I progress through the different edging options.

Another edging that was suggested was garter stitch. You would knit the first and last 3 or 4 sts on each row every row.

You can combine the garter stitch edge with the rib and cable edging by working garter stitch over the first and last few stitches instead of purling them.

I suggest you use stitch markers to box off your garter stitch section so you don’t accidentally work too many stitches.

Something to keep in mind is that garter stitch has a different row gauge then stockinette stitch and might pull against the rest of the knitting if you make your garter stitch section to wide.

You’ll want to knit a generous swatch to test your options.

Personally I haven’t decided which edging to use, but I’m leaning toward the rib and cable option.

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12/12/12 Scarf

December 12, 2012 in Juniper Moon Farm Yarns, Scarves

The date today is December 12, 2012, which in shorthand is 12/12/12.

You know this, of course, because you couldn’t NOT know since everybody has been making a fuss over it in the days leading up to it.

There must be some numerological significance. Or maybe they just think it looks nice since it’s symmetrical.

Chadwick Swimming Pool

Chadwick has 202 yards per ball.

In any event, as I was trying to fall to sleep last night one thing that crossed my mind was how to celebrate the fun date through yarn.

I had been thinking you could cast on 12 sts and just knit away. But that would make an awfully skinny scarf and might not be much fun.

Then I got a brainwave and at 1 am on 12/12/12 posted this on our Facebook wall.

12/12/12, eh?
You could CO 36
P12, K12, P12 for 12 rows
P12, C12B, P12
Etc

Which is just another reminder that I shouldn’t post things on our wall in the wee hours of the night.

Because, really, I must have been channeling Elizabeth Zimmermann when I wrote that. Talk about “pithy directions”!

As I drifted off to sleep it occurred to me that all the beginning knitters would be confused.

And I was correct. It was the C12B that tripped people up. Happily, experienced knitters (and pattern readers) jumped in with explanations while I was eating breakfast.

Another big oversight was that I don’t specify you should work in ribbing for those first 12 rows.

What I should have written was:

CO 36

P12, K12, P12

K12, P12, K12

For 12 rows total

P12, C12B, P12

Repeat until you are sick of it or run out of yarn.

BO

Now, if you’ve knit cables before the C12B didn’t phase you at all. If you haven’t, it was mysterious knitting code you haven’t encountered before.

The important thing to remember when looking at a cable abbreviation is to cut the number in half. In this case you’ll be working with 6 sts at a time.

Hold to back

Just reach across to the left needle and knit.

Work your first 12 purl sts. Then when you reach the knit section stop, slip the next 6 sts purlwise onto a cable needle (without working them) and then push it out of your way to the back of the project, knit the next 6 sts on the left hand needle, then knit the 6 sts that are on the cable needle.

You’ll want to slip the sts purlwise (i.e., going in from back to front as though you were working a purl stitch) because if you slip them knitwise they’ll get twisted and be hard to knit when you came back to them.

knit from cable needle

Then knit the stitches you skipped.

When you’re ready to work the sts you skipped you have a few choices depending on your project and what is comfortable for you. In this case I was using a double pointed needle as my cable needle so it was easy to knit the stitches directly from the dpn.

When I’m using a cable needle I sometimes slip the sts back onto the left hand needle before working them. It depending on the yarn and what size the cable needle is compared to my regular needle.

Some daring people don’t even use a third needle when they knit cables! It’s called cabling without a cable needle. They swear it is easier and faster, but I just don’t have the confidence that I won’t start dropping stitches. I imagine someone at your local yarn store can give you a lesson. Or a friend in your knitting group.

After working the cable you’re resume your ribbing sequence.

The fun thing about this scarf idea is that it should work with just about any yarn. The size of your scarf will depend on what yarn and needle size you select. Chunky yarn will result in a big scarf. Fingering weight yarn will result in a smaller scarf.

It’s also a good example of just plunging in and knitting. The next time you have some pretty yarn that you really want to use but don’t have a pattern you can just make up a scarf!

What’s the worst that can happen? You have to rip back and start over?

In my case I decided to use Juniper Moon Farm Chadwick yarn in color #7-Swimming Pool.

(The first picture at the top of the post where it’s on the windowsill is probably most accurate for color. The cabling pictures the flash went off. The scarf picture below just looks washed out.)

Chadwick comes in 202 yard balls, which should get me a good sized made up scarf. And if it winds up short I’ll sew the cast on to the bind off and call it a cowl!

A rule of thumb is that to make a decent sized scarf (6″ x 52″ I think) using worsted weight yarn you’ll want around 300 yards. Then go up or down in yardage from there depending on how wide or long you intend to make it.

Of more concern at the moment than the possible length is the massive amount of curling on the sides.

Stockinette stitch curls. It’s just the nature of the beast. If I do make a cowl that will help control the curling at the end, but it won’t help will the curling in the rest of the scarf.

Ways to control it would be to work smaller chunks of ribbing (k6,p6 perhaps? You want to have purls right next to the cable so it stands out from the fabric). Or a flat stitch like seed stitch (P1, k1 across. The knit the purls and purl the knits). Garter stitch sides is another option.

Or you could be really sassy and work cabled over the first or last 12 sts occasionally.

I might have to abandon the 12/12/12 idea in favor of ribbing. It was a fun idea, but I want to like the scarf when I’m finished!

Did you jump in and start knitting a scarf based on my 1 am idea? Share a picture! I’d love to see how you interpreted my crazy directions.

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Final Himalayan Hiking Hat

December 7, 2012 in Hats, Louisa Harding

Louisa Harding has released the seventh and final hat in her Himalayan Hiking Hat series.

Sikles

Photo credit: Louisa Harding

You’ll remember that Louisa designed these hats to raise money for Macmillan Cancer Support, which provided assistance when her husband was undergoing treatment.

As part of her fundraising effort, last month Louisa did an 11 day hiking trip in Nepal.

The final hat, Silkes, was designed and knit while she was on the hike.

Talk about your travel knitting! Usually I take a pair of socks for on the plane.

Louisa’s goal was to raise £5,000 and she is excited to announce she has raised £7,500 to date. The group she hiked with raised a combined £180,000. Wow!

She thanks you for all your support!

The Silkes hat is knit using 2 hanks of Grace Hand Dyed. This beautiful 50% Merino Wool, 50% Silk yarn has 6 new colors this season.

Louisa knit her hat in four days, so there is probably time for you to whip one out for gift giving.

A fun thing about this final pattern is that it includes pictures and stories from the hike.

Himalayan hats Nepal_2012-3

All the hats. With hikers Sophie, Di, Wendy, Jess, Estelle, Amy and Monya

Louisa’s fundraising pages are still active, so you can still contribute to her efforts.

If you would like to donate for this hat pattern you can at http://www.justgiving.com/Louisa-Harding-Jessup

The whole ‘Himalayan Hiking Hat’ pattern collection is available to download at http://www.louisaharding.co.uk/macmillan.

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Chadwick Owl Arm Warmers

December 5, 2012 in Free, Gloves, Juniper Moon Farm Yarns, Mitts

Arm warmers and fingerless mitts are pretty awesome in my book.

right owl mitt

So warm and cozy!

I wear fingerless mitts practically year round. In the summer they are good for when the air-conditioning is too efficient and in the winter they are good when you want to stay warm but keep your fingers free.

Of course, you already know all this because of those Simple Striped Arm Warmers I knit recently using Mirasol Tuhu yarn.

What I didn’t mention was that I don’t like knitting fingers. Despite that fact that half fingers will help keep your hands warmer, I find knitting them fiddly and annoying.

Since I don’t think knitting (or crocheting) should be annoying I usually just knit some ribbing on the finger side of the mitt and call it a day.

Contrary to my anti-finger stance, you’ll notice that these Owl Arm Warmers have half fingers. That’s because these aren’t for me.

owl mitts finished marked

Owl arm warmers for my aunt

When I was visiting my mom for Thanksgiving she said my aunt had seen an ad for fingerless mitts in a magazine, but they were boring and utilitarian so she didn’t like them. She asked my mom whether I could knit her a pair instead.

My aunt was diagnosed with multiple sclerosis a few years ago and apparently it makes her arms cold sometimes. She doesn’t want to wear sweaters and such all the time and thought arm warmers would do the trick.

I was up to the challenge!

Using a soft, squishy yarn in a lovely color wasn’t enough. I wanted to jazz them up with a simple design. The ubiquitous owl cable fit the bill because my aunt has liked and collected owl figurines long before it became stylish.

Juniper Moon Farm Yarns Chadwick immediately came to mind as a good yarn for this project. This 60% Merino Wool, 40% Baby Alpaca blend yarn is not only as soft as a kitten but nice and warm as well. This smooth yarn has good stitch definition, which would enhance the cable. I decided to use color #6-Mercury. You can see all 12 colors here.

owl close

Eyes would make it more owly.

A note about yarn quantities.

I was hoping these arm warmers would be a one skein project, but I fell a few yards short of the goal.

Juniper Moon Farm Yarns Chadwick comes in generous 202 yard balls. If you knit the pattern as written you will use every inch of yarn and probably run out. In fact, I ran out and the left thumb is shorter than the right. Oops. Unfortunately, you’ll just need a wee amount of the second ball to finish up. You can make a matching headband with the second ball. Or make a second, shorter pair. Or shorten this pair. Or ditch the fingers. You’re a clever knitter; you’ll figure something out.

Owl Arm Warmers

Download a PDF version of the pattern here.

Size: To fit 8” hand circumference. 11” arm circumference at the elbow. 8 1/2” from wrist to elbow. 12 ¾” from fingers to cuff.

Materials:
Yarn: Juniper Moon Farm Chadwick (60% Merino Wool, 40% Baby Alpaca), 2 balls. Shown in #6-Mercury.
Needles: US 7 dpns (or size needed to obtain gauge)
Notions: Cable needle, scrap yarn to use as stitch holders

Gauge: 4.5 sts x 7 rows = 1” in st st in the round

Owl Cable
Rounds 1 & 2: P4, K8, P4
Round 3: P4, C4B, C4F, P4
Rounds 4-9: P4, K8, P4
Round 10: P4, C4B, C4F, P4
Rounds 11-15: P4, K8, P4
Round 16: P4, C4B, C4F, P4
Round 17, P4, C2B, K4, C2F, P4

Abbreviations:
CO-Cast on
C4B-slip next 2 sts to a cable needle and hold to back, K2, K2 from cable needle
C4F-slip next 2 sts to a cable needle and hold to front, K2, K2 from cable needle
C2B-slip next 1 st to a cable needle and hold to back, K1, K1 from cable needle
C2F-slip next 1 st to a cable needle and hold to front, K1, K1 from cable needle
Dec-Decrease
DPNs-Double pointed needles
K-Knit
KFB-Knit front and back
K2tog-Knit two stitches together
M1L-Make one left-insert left hand needle from front to back into horizontal bar between last st worked and the next st, K bar through back loop.
M1R-Make one right-insert left needle from back to front into horizontal bar between the last st worked and the next st, K bar through front loop.
P-Purl
PM-Place marker
P2tog-purl two stitches together
SM-Slip marker
SSK-Slip next two stitches individual knitwise to right needle, insert left needle into front of slipped stitches, k2tog
St(s)-Stitch(es)
St st-Stockinette Stitch

The Pattern:

Right arm warmer:
CO 52 sts.
Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist stitches. Place marker to note beginning of the round. Distribute stitches evenly on needles.

Work K2, P2 rib for 6 rounds
Round 7: K2tog, *P2, K2, repeat from * to last 2 sts, P2tog (50 sts)
Round 8: K1, *P2, K2, repeat from * to last st, P1
Rounds 9-13: Continue in rib as established.
Round 14: K1, P2tog, *K2, P2, repeat from * to last 3 sts, K2tog, P1. (48 sts)
Round 15: K1, P1, *K2, P2, repeat from * to last 2 sts, K1, P1

Round 16: change to stockinette stitch (knit all stitches, all row).
Continue in st st until piece measures 5” from cast on edge or desired length. AT THE SAME TIME, dec 2 sts every 7th round 5 times (i.e., Rounds 21 & 28: K1, K2tog, K to last 3 sts, SSK, K1)

Set up round for Owl Cable:
Round 35: K1, K2tog, K11, P16, K11, SSK, K1 (42 sts)
Round 36: K13, P16, K13
Note: when working Owl Cable it might be helpful to distribute work on 3 needles so there are 13 sts each on Needles 1 & 3 and 16 sts on Needle 2. That way the Owl is isolated to Needle 2.

Work Owl Cable over 16 sts on Needle 2. Knit all sts on Needles 1 & 3
Rounds 37 & 38: P4, K8, P4
Round 39: P4, C4B, C4F, P4
Rounds 40-45: P4, K8, P4 (Also, work decrease round as established on round 42 [40 sts])
Round 46: P4, C4B, C4F, P4
Rounds 47-51: P4, K8, P4 (Also, work decrease round as established on round 49 [38 sts])
Round 52: P4, C4B, C4F, P4
Round 53: P4, C2B, K4, C2F, P4

Rounds 54 & 55: K11, P16, K11
Continue in st st until piece measures 8 ½” from CO or desired length.
Work 3 more rows.

Start Thumb gusset:
Round 62: K29, PM, M1R, K2, M1L, PM, K to end
Round 63: K even
Round 64: K to marker, SM, M1R, K to next marker, M1L, SM, K to end
Round 65: K even
Repeat alternating Increase round and Knit even round 3 more times to 12 sts between markers, ending with a K even round.

Next round: K to first marker, place 12 sts between markers on a piece of scrap yarn for later. Remove markers. CO 2 sts using Backward E method. K to end
Work even in st st for 7 rounds or desired length.

Note: I found this “Ask a Knitter” article on Ravelry helpful when deciding where to pick up sts to minimize gaps at the base of the fingers.

owl mitt fingers

Use locking stitch markers to help visualize the finger placement.

Work Fingers:
K 10 sts to get to the side of the hand.
Place all sts on a piece of scrap yarn.
Mark sts for fingers. 8 sts for pinky and 10 sts each for the other 3 fingers. Half the sts will come from the top of the hand and the other half will come from the palm of the hand.

Work Pinkie:
Transfer 4 sts from back of hand and 4 sts from palm to 2 dpns
K3, KFB twice, K3 (10 sts)
Work 5 rounds even.
Bind off all sts. Cut yarn leaving sufficient tail to weave in end.

owl mitt finger arrow

To help prevent a gap at the base of the fingers, pick up the stitch on the holder.

Work Ring finger:
Transfer next 5 sts from back of hand and next 5 sts from palm to 2 dpns
With palm facing, attach yarn leaving sufficient tail to weave in end. K5, pick up 2 sts at base of Pinkie, K5 (12 sts)
Work 5 rounds even.
Bind off all sts. Cut yarn leaving sufficient tail to weave in end.

Repeat for next two fingers.

Work Thumb:
Transfer 12 held stitches to 2 or 3 dpns
Attach yarn, leaving sufficient tail to weave in end. K12, pick up 2 sts on side of hand (14 sts)
Work 5 rounds even.
Bind off all sts. Cut yarn leaving sufficient tail to weave in end.

Weave in ends. Note: Use the tails from attaching the yarn to close up any gaps at the base of the fingers.

Left arm warmer:
Work as for right, reversing thumb shaping and finger placement.

Left Thumb placement:
K7, PM, M1R, K2, M1L, PM, K to end.

Begin working fingers with the Pointer finger. 10 sts per finger. 8 for the pinkie.

Owl hand

I caught a snowflake!

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Jenny King’s “Fashions to Flaunt Crocheted with Noro Yarns”

November 30, 2012 in crochet, Noro

As though the new hardcover Crochet Noro book wasn’t exciting enough, Australian designer Jenny King has just released (December 1) “Fashions to Flaunt Crocheted with Noro Yarns.”

Fashions to Flaunt Crocheted With Noro Yarns cover

Your collection of crochet hooks must be standing up and dancing by now, because I know mine are.

The fabulous colors of Noro in the crochet stitches we love…sigh, life is good. (Remember, I grew up crocheting so I can legitimately say things like that.)

Jenny has been designing crochet patterns for 15 years. She also travels around teaching classes and owns a local yarn store in Australia. In addition to books, her pattern have appeared in Vogue Knitting Crochet and Interweave Crochet. You’ve probably seen some!

The patterns in Fashions to Flaunt use yarn from across the Noro line, from the sock yarns to the bulky yarns so you’ll be able to select a project based on how quickly you want to finish. If you’re like me, you crochet faster than you knit anyway, so a lovely new project can be completed quickly.

With 17 garments ranging from accessories to sweaters I could go on and on all day, so I’ll just highlight a few that caught my eye.

Slippers

These are adorable!

Maybe I’ve been a little slipper obsessed lately, but these are adorable! And they look pretty simple as well. If you are in gift crocheting mode I bet these would be good candidates, they look like they would take next to no time to make.

Bobble Scarf

Bobble Scarf=One ball of Silk Garden Sock

The Bobble Scarf takes just one ball of Silk Garden Sock yarn. I bet you could use Taiyo Sock yarn as well. Jenny tells us this pattern is very popular in Australia because it’s quick and easy to make. I think it’s because the finished scarf is so unique. Aren’t the trailing bobbles fun?

There is a lot of visual interest in this scarf between the textures of the fabric and the great Noro colors.

The Crosscross vest is one of the garments in the book.

I like this one because of the unique construction.

Crisscross Vest

It's mild mannered in front.

The fronts have great flow and drape.

Crisscross Vest Back

Isn't that cool?

Then the back is like “Ta-da! Didn’t expect that, did you?”

I think this vest would be great for adding extra warmth without making you too hot.

Another neat garment is the Aztec Shawl. Jenny sent us extra pictures that aren’t in the book.

This first one is from the book. “Oh, look at the pretty shawl with the interesting edging.”

Aztec Shawl

There are many ways to wear the Aztec Shawl

But what you should realize is that there are multiple ways to wear it. This is a very flexible garment!

Aztec shawl 2

I like how this way forms a collar

Worn this way it looks like a totally different shawl. I like how the edge folds over to form a collar for this option.

Aztec shawl 3

This is the way Jenny wears the Aztec Shawl

Jenny says this is the way she wears the shawl. It really shows off the interesting edging. It’s also an excuse to wear some of those pretty shawl fasteners you’ve collected.

Two other shawls and a scarf have multiple wearing options as well.

There are a variety of attractive patterns in this book that range from easy to intermediate skill levels. I think you’ll find plenty of projects to keep your hooks busy.

Keep a sharp eye on your crochet social media next week. There will be a blog tour for the book and I hear some of those reviewers will be giving away a copy of the book and a ball of Silk Garden Sock yarn. cool!

First stop will be The Crochet Dude on Dec. 5. Then Crochetville on Dec 7.

Or, don’t bother waiting, and just buy yourself a copy (print or digital!), then swing by your local yarn store for supplies.

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