A Sweater Divided

August 13, 2012 in Juniper Moon Farm Yarns, Sweaters, Tips

The Olympic Games ended last night. For knitters and crocheters active on Ravelry it also meant the conclusion of the Ravellenic Games.

With millions of yarn lovers allover the world I know that whenever I’m casting on or completing a project it is very likely that at least one person (if not more) is at the same point as me. Sort of like knowing people share your birthday even if you haven’t met them.

Still, there is something extra fun about participating in a Knit Along or Crochet Along when you know people are intentionally starting a project at the same time.

While the overarching goal of the Ravellenic Games is to attempt to start and finish a challenging (for yourself) project between the opening and closing ceremonies, I prefer to approach it as an opportunity to expand my skills. That may be because my projects are usually too ambitious and I don’t finish in time!

That was once again the case this year. But I went into the Games knowing my actual chances of finishing my Three Lace Cardigan were slim and was using them instead as a way to stay focused on one project for an extended period of time.

Considering I was working on a lace cardigan knit using lace weight yarn on US 5 needles, I think I made pretty good progress.

Divide for Fronts and Back

Scraps of yarn make good stitch holders.

When working a sweater all in one piece this instruction should not scare you.

Once you introduce the spaces for the arm holes into the garment they will prevent you from working in long, continuous rows. Think of it as the draw bridge is up and the roads a no longer connected.

Now it’s a matter of rearranging the stitches so you can work on the individual sections. When the shifting is taking place the instruction might way “work in pattern” or just “work” in either case you should continue working the lace, texture, or color changes you’ve been knitting or crocheting all along unless you are specifically told otherwise. If I’d stopped working the lace pattern I would have ended up with an odd stockinette row right in the middle of my cardigan!

In this case the pattern told me to continue working on the left front of the sweater first. Now that is the “left front” when I’ll be wearing the cardigan, not as I’m looking at it on my lap.

I opted to move the waiting, live stitches to a piece of scrap yarn until I’m ready for them. I just threaded a darning needle with the organ yarn and slipped the stitches over. I kept the markers in place to make it easier to track the lace pattern when I return to that section.

You can save some brain cells later on by making a note about which pattern row you ended with on the working copy of your pattern.

You can get a variety of stitch holders at your local yarn store ranging from giant metal safety pins to plastic rods. I have even seen people use a circular needle with point protectors on the ends.

But for a light yarn like Findley I prefer to use a piece of scrap yarn because it doesn’t pull on the knitting as much as one of those other options.

A Few Stitches Short of a Repeat

Switch to stockinette when you run out of stitches.

If you haven’t knit a lace garment before, or any lace project that requires shaping for that matter, you might become puzzled how to stay in pattern once you start decreasing.

It can be a little confusing when the lace has a six stitch pattern and suddenly you have only 4 stitches (or fewer).

The solution is to either work as much of the pattern stitch as you can or default to stockinette stitch (or another appropriate vanilla option that will fit in with your garment such as reverse stockinette stitch or garter stitch).

If the pattern stitch includes pairs of increases and decreases make sure you can work both of them before deciding to “work in pattern” otherwise your stitch count will be off. If you work a yarn over without the corresponding decrease you’ll run into problems later on.

Having the edge in stockinette stitch can also make finishing easier down the line.

In this case I have stockinette stitch along the armhole, which will be easier to attach the sleeve to when the time comes than an edge full of yarn over holes and decrease bumps.

Since it’s located right along the edge of the arm it won’t be very noticeable when I’m wearing the sweater.

My sweater is moving along nicely and I’ve got enough momentum to keep going even though the Ravellenic Games have ended.

Did you succeed in your quest for Ravellenic glory?

Tags: lace, womens
1 Comment »

On The Needles: Three Lace Cardigan

August 8, 2012 in Juniper Moon Farm Yarns, Sweaters, Tips

The “Three Lace Cardigan” is from the Juniper Moon Farm Findley book.

This is my final goal

The smallest size (for a 30 1/2″ bust, which I’m making) takes one ball of Findley yarn. The other five sizes take two balls. From what I’ve seen, there is a lot of stretch in the finished cardigan and even the smallest size will fit a variety of people.

Findley yarn is a delicious 50% Merino Wool, 50% Silk blend. It launched with 12 colors and two more have been added for the fall. This yarn is soft, shiny, and alluring. If your impulse is to just let it sit on your desk so you can pet and admire it (rather than knitting or crocheting with it right away) take comfort in the fact that you are not alone.

I fell in love with the Three Lace Cardigan as soon as I saw it, but haven’t gotten around to knitting it until now. You know how that goes, too many current projects on the go, gifts to be made, etc. I also admit to being a little intimidated by the idea of knitting an entire cardigan out of lace weight yarn even if it is on size US 5 needles!

To break the cycle I declared the TLC my Ravellenic Games project. That would give me an excuse to toss all other projects aside and just focus on the cardigan.

I was impatient to get through the garter stitch hem.

This tactic has worked well, as you know if you are a fan of ours on Facebook where I have been regularly posting progress pictures.

On one of the pictures someone asked if I had tips for beginners and I was puzzled since the pattern is pretty straight forward so far, but I think I’ve thought of some.

Be Bold! Go Forth and Knit!

However, most of my tips are not specific to the Three Lace Cardigan but are general knitting hints that will apply to most projects.

First, don’t be intimidated by all the lace in this pattern. The stitches are written out AND charted so you can look at both. In fact, if you aren’t sure about reading charts this could be a good pattern to start with since it has both.

I’m not an accomplished lace knitter who produces tons of fabulous lace shawls, but I’d say the lace patterns in this cardigan are simple enough for someone new to lace to manage.

Highlight, Circle and Make Notes.

This is one of those patterns where you’ll want to make a copy and then scribble all over it.

Circle the numbers related to the size you are making. Highlight the “at the same time” directions for the neck and arm shaping. By reading the pattern through once in advance of starting to knit you’ll avoid surprises later on.

Keep in mind that stitch markers are your friend. I’ve been applying them liberally as I go along.

Stitch markers can help keep you on track.

First I used them when I was casting on. Since it was over 100 sts, I placed a marker after every group of 10 to make them easier to count.

I took them out on the first row since I was just knitting garter stitch for a while.

Then I replaced them at the end of each pattern repeat for the first lace pattern. I like to knit while I watch TV and the markers helped keep me on track. I could glance down to work the yarn overs then zip along to the next marker.

I removed them for the second lace pattern, which has a lot of stockinette stitch, and then replaced them for the third pattern.

Starting the third lace pattern.

So far I haven’t made any mistakes!

Take time to admire your work

I recently read an interview on the Vogue Knitting website with Brooke Nico and she pointed out that people forget to look at their knitting. You have to know how your project looks when it’s correct to understand when it’s wrong.

That’s good advice and I’ve been keeping it in mind as I work my Three Lace Cardigan. Even if I hadn’t read that article the yarn and pattern are so pretty that I would still be stopping to pet it on a regular basis!

Taking Shape

This cardigan is worked in one piece to the armhole shaping.

That’s nice because it reduces the amount of finishing needed at the end.

The next challenge will be dividing for the front and backs after I work a few more rows of the third lace repeat.

I’m sure that if I take it step by step it won’t give me any trouble.

The Ravellenic Games end on August 12. I know I won’t have the cardigan finished by the deadline, but I’ll have made enough progress to keep going.

When the end of a project is in sight, especially a fun one worked in yummy yarn, it’s hard to put it down!

Tags: lace, WIPs, womens
3 Comments »

Thoughts on Swatching

July 10, 2012 in miscellaneous, Tips

This morning WEBS shared a tip on their blog about photocopying your swatch on graph paper so you don’t have to carry the physical swatch around.

The post has a picture showing the end result. It’s a pretty neat graphic that you can see on their website.

I thought it was a clever idea and immediately shared it on our own Facebook wall.

I don’t see the point in this and EVERY knitting related page I am a fan of is re-posting it!–Jennifer

It was interesting to see the responses from our fans who said they don’t get it.

Other people expressed the opinion that it seems unnecessary because they just write the information from their swatch down.

Maybe it’s an inside joke.–Leslie

The WEBS post gave only the briefest explanation about why their knitter photocopied her swatches, which might be contributing to the confusion.

Let me share some of my thoughts about the tip. Maybe you won’t agree, but it might also provide information you’ll find useful later on.

Swatching is the bane of many stitchers’ lives, but it is often a necessary first step if you want your project to come out correctly. Granted, if you are knitting or crocheting something that doesn’t need to fit, such as a scarf or a dishcloth, then you probably don’t need to swatch. But you’ve heard about, or even experienced, the sweater that took a month or more to make only to end up too big or too small for the intended recipient.

I had to go down a needle size to get the correct gauge for my Debbie Bliss Simple Tank.

For instance, by swatching I learned that I had to go down a needle size from the one recommended in the Simple Tank pattern from the Spring/Summer 2012 issue of Debbie Bliss magazine. If I hadn’t checked, my top would have ended up much too big.

Swatching could have helped avoid that. If your gauge matches the gauge in the pattern you have a much better chance of the finished project working out properly.

Swatches Are Your Stitching History

Now many stitchers (me included, if the truth is told) knit or crochet enough of a swatch with enough different sizes of hook or needles until they get the pattern gauge, then rip out that swatch and use it in the project. The organized ones might write down the information so the next time they use that yarn they won’t have to do as much swatching. The disorganized ones either try to remember or start from scratch.

Some people are fine with written notes, others need that extra memory jog of the actual swatch.

Those stitchers buy an extra ball of yarn for the express purpose of preserving their swatch in a journal. They’ll write notes on the journal page, or pin notes to the swatch, so the next time they use that yarn they have a record. They might keep a long, scarf like swatch of all the different size needles they used. Or they might wash and block the swatch, which gives a more accurate gauge but makes it hard to reuse the yarn.

Swatching the Cosimo Scarf helped me learn the pattern

Of course, in this modern era, you can also make notes about the swatch on your Ravelry project page, but stitches are tactile people and having a physical record in nice.

In either case, keeping a record of your experience with a certian yarn will allow you to start your project faster the next time you use it.

Project TBD

Now, that is all assuming you bought a pattern and the yarn it calls for. In that case you are attempting to get the gauge in the pattern so you can get on to making your project.

But what about the independent yarn in your stash? You know, that pretty, pretty yarn that you just had to buy even though you didn’t know what you were going to make with it.

When it comes time to use it you have some decisions to make.

Swatching Rinihue in single and double crocheted allowed me to see which I preferred.

Some people transport the yarn back to their local yarn store to begin the pattern hunt. That can be a lot of bulky stuff to carry around, especially if you are searching for multiple projects. Or what about those times you’re at your LYS, find a beautiful pattern, but can’t remember if you have yarn at home that will work?

This is the situation where the WEBS tip really comes into play.

When you first buy that pretty, must-own yarn go home and swatch with it. Use a few different size hooks or needles until you hit on a fabric that you find pleasant. Then write down what you did.

Now at this point you can either pop the swatch into your journal, write notes on a 3×5 index card, or use the WEBS tip and make a photocopy of the swatch then write the notes in the margin.

In the first method of the journal you’ll have a bulky item to bring to the LYS. In the other two methods you have a might lighter record to transport. You can even leave them in the car so that if you make an unplanned stop at the yarn store you have the information you need on hand.

A few sheets of paper are also easier to pack when you go on a trip. You never know when you’ll encounter a new yarn store and if you have some notes on hand it will make shopping easier.

How do you manage your swatches? Do you save them or reuse them?

The multi-colored red yarn in my crochet swatch is Araucania Rinihue, a 80%Wool, 20% Silk blend with approximately 208 yards per 100g.
The grey lace swatch is Louisa Harding Nerissa, a 100% Cotton yarn with approximately 98 yards per 50g. You can download the free Cosimo scarf pattern from our website.

Tags: swatches, tips
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Pansies Bolero Neck Shaping

June 24, 2012 in Ella Rae, Sweaters, Tips

I have been zipping along on my Pansies Bolero without any other problems.

I’m using Ella Rae Pansies yarn in color #8.

Although it’s a simple pattern that is good for auto-pilot knitting while watching TV or chatting with friends, I did decide to make a little change at the armhole shaping.

After working the cast offs to start the shaping the pattern calls for working k2tog at both ends of the needles. It also has you work them in the first and last stitches of the row.

That’s all fine, and it will get me where I need to be, but it’s not the method I prefer.

Instead of working the decreases right at the edge I worked them one stitch in. Instead of starting the row K2tog I worked K1, K2tog. I feel having that one plain stitch will make seaming easier down the line.

I also decided to work mirrored decreases.

You know how certain decreases (and increases) make the stitches slant in one direction or the other? Well, when you pair them so they slant either toward or away from each other it’s called a mirrored decrease.

When there is extensive shaping involved so that the decreases and increases become a design element it is called “full fashioned.”

In the case of the Bolero there are just a few rows of decreases so my change will probably be hardly noticeable.

Instead of working k2tog on both end, I worked SSK at the start of the row and k2tog at the end of the row.

Then it was smooth sailing to the shoulders.

When I started working the shoulder shaping I found the wording a little confusing.

The pattern is correct, it’s just not presented the way I expected. I’ve noticed that European knitting patterns often assume the knitter knows how to do the basic, simple steps and will often give them only a passing mention. American patterns tend to give detailed descriptions for every step of the process.

It’s sort of the difference between a cooking recipe from a friend that says to “saute onions” and a recipe in a cook book that spells out heating the oil, chopping the onion, and how long to cook them to get the same results.

Anyway, back to knitting.

I’m working the smallest size. The pattern says to “Cast off 6 sts, K20 sts , turn, leaving remaining sts on holder.”

I knit 20 sts and realized I had 21 sts on the right hand needle. That just didn’t sound right. I suspected the stitch left on the right hand needle counted as one of the 20.

To verify, I talked my way through the remaining rows without knitting them. As I counted off the stitches to cast off I kept my finger in place to indicate the shortening rows. Sure enough, I had one stitch left at the end.

I realized the directions wanted me to work 19 more sts for a total of 20 sts. Happily, I only had to pick out one stitch to get to the correct count.

On the smallest size, the stitches for the shoulder and neck shaping are in sets of 26/14/26. If you are working one of the larger sizes you’ll want to do a quick count to determine your stitch distribution before you start working the shaping.

Another spot where the breezy European style showed up was when it was time to work the second shoulder. The pattern just says to leave the center 14 sts on a holder and knit to end.

It skips the important step of reattaching the yarn. But, on the other hand, it’s not like I would have been able to continue knitting if I hadn’t reattached the yarn. Obviously, I was going to do that whether the pattern told me to or not!

It just goes to show you have to stay alert even for auto-pilot knitting.

Like what you see? Find local and online stores near you that stock the Ella Rae line by using the “find a store” feature on our website.

Tags: cotton, WIPs
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On the Needles: Pansies Bolero

June 20, 2012 in Ella Rae, Sweaters, Tips

I started the Bolero from the Ella Rae Pansies book over the weekend and it is moving along quickly as I expected.

The pattern calls for a US 5 needle for the edging and a US 6 for the body, but I got gauge on the US 5. That means that when it is time to work the edging I should probably use a US 4 needle.

Start of my Pansies Bolero

As I mentioned before, Pansies is an unmercerized 100% cotton yarn, but it has a 3-ply construction for strength.

Unlike some cotton yarns that can be a little harsh to knit with because they are stiff, Pansies has just enough “give” that it hasn’t tired out my hands. It is also pleasantly soft as it’s running through my fingers.

It is fun to watch the stripes develop.

I’m enjoying watching the stripes take shape. It’s so nice to be able to work plain stockinette stitch and allow the yarn to do all the hard work of adding visual interest!

The only problem I’ve had so far was when I managed to twist as stitch as I was knitting. That’s what I get for not paying attention to what my hands are doing!

When I make a mistake in my knitting or crocheting I ask myself a few questions before I decide whether to fix it or ignore it.

The first question to ask is, “Does the mistake mess up the pattern?” In a lace or texture stitch a mistake can effect every subsequent row, which probably means repairs are necessary. In stockinette stitch it might be possible the just fudge a different row by increasing or decreasing to get back to the correct stitch count.

The second question to ask is, “How noticeable is the mistake?” If it’s in the middle front of the sweater it might be glaring, in which case I’d probably want to fix it. If it’s on the edge it might get absorbed into the seam or regularly covered by my arm, in which case I might ignore it.

The last, and most important question, is, “Can I live with it?” Some people will drive themselves to distraction trying to make their project “perfect.” Sometimes to the point where they don’t end up finishing because they get so exhausted and annoyed. Other people take the view that humans make mistakes and a slight flaw in a hand knit or crocheted project makes it unique and adds character.

Only you can decide with type of crafter you are. But the important thing to remember is to relax and enjoy the process!

In this case, I knew I wouldn’t be able to live with the mistake (even though it was on the back). Also, it was an easy mistake to fix.

First, insert the crochet hook through the last live stitch

I started my repair by dropping the stitch off the needle that was in line with the twisted stitch.

I then gently manipulated the yarn to drop the stitch down until I reached the offending stitch. Usually dropped stitches are a reason to gnash your teeth, but done in a controlled manner then can be useful.

Then I got my crochet hook and began the process of working the stitches back up.

Use the hook to grab the strand and pull it through the loop.

It’s a simple matter of grabbing the loose strand (or “ladder”) from the next row up and pulling it through the stitch on the crochet hook. When you reach the top row, place the last loop back on the left hand needle, being careful not to twist it.

The still photos give you the general idea. I also made a little video so you can see the process in action.

I hope this gives you confidence to attempt a repair the next time you make a mistake.

Remember, the staff at your local yarn store are always a good resource for repairs. Sometimes all you need is the moral support of other knitters nearby when you attempt a repair.

Now if you’ll excuse me, I have a Bolero to knit!

Tags: cotton, summer
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Reknit to Rescue Dropped Stitches

May 29, 2012 in Debbie Bliss, Tips

Last week when I came home from the grocery store I was met at the door by my 8-year-old Golden Retriever Samson, as usual.

Look at that sweet face.

As he walked away I noticed he seemed to have some string wrapped around his two left legs. On closer inspection I realized it wasn’t string, but the yarn from the striped tank top I’ve been knitting from the Spring/Summer 2012 issue of Debbie Bliss Magazine.

He had dragged it through three rooms to get to me.

Doggy disaster

The last time I worked on it I left it on the coffee table, rather than placing it in my project back like a responsible knitter. I’m not sure how it happened, but he obviously caught a paw in it when he hopped off the couch to meet me.

Since I had to bring in the groceries, I said a few choice words and stomped out of the house. (To my husband’s credit, when he heard the commotion and saw my project on the floor, he quickly and quietly started putting groceries away. LOL!)

Once I calmed down I was able to assess the situation. Instead of dragging the yarn balls, which would have been good, Samson dragged the sweater, which was bad. The circular needle got hooked on a planter, which caused the project to slide to the end, dropping five stitches off the needle in the process.

Luckily, Debbie Bliss Rialto 4 Ply is a 100% Merino yarn and I’m working at a fine gauge so the stitches only dropped down four rows.

Can you image the disaster if I’d been working with a slippery yarn or at a loose gauge?

With over 100 stitches on the needles, I decided to attempt a spot repair rather than rip all those rows back.

First catch the stitches

The first step is to catch the dropped stitches. Since it was only four stitches I used a US 2 double pointed needle to pick up the next row of live stitches through the right hand leg.

It is important to catch the right hand leg because that seats the stitches facing the proper direction. If you catch the left leg your stitch will be twisted and you’ll have to remember to untwist it before you knit it. However, sometimes it’s just best to get the stitches on a needle and worry about the details later!

US2 is the same size needle with which I’m knitting the project. Sometimes it’s easier to catch that first row with a needle one size smaller.

Then I untangled the loose loops of yarn from the dropped rows and organized them in the proper order. Since I was going to use those loops as my working yarn to reknit the lost rows I needed the loops to be in the order they would be used.

Use the loops as the working yarn.

If you attempt this repair this step will make sense when you get to it. In this picture you can see how each loop is feeding off a row.

Then I ignored the rest of the project and pretended I was just knitting an awkward little swatch with little lengths of yarn. I used the double pointed needle and the far end of the circular. To complicate things I had to work on increase on the first rescue row, but I maintained my focus and it worked out fine.

Things got a little tight when I was next to the main body of the project, but I knew there was enough yarn available since those rows had been there once before!

All fixed!

In the blink of an eye I had reworked the dropped rows and you could hardly tell there was an issue at all. The last step in the reknitting process was to work across the reclaimed stitches to finish the row.

phew!

Then I set about untangling the yarn. I had picked up the pulled yarn carefully so it was more a matter of straightening things out and rewinding the balls than dealing with knots.

The whole repair from the time I sat down to having the yarn balls sorted out took about half an hour.

Since then I’ve been happily knitting along and am now ready to start the armhole shaping.

And you can be the project goes back in its project bag when I’m not working on it!

Other Applications

Now, this was an extreme circumstance, but this repair method has other applications.

You can use it if you drop stitches in the middle of a project as well. In fact, I think that situation is easier because the loops are more obvious.

You can use this method on purpose to repair an error a few rows down. For instance, if you are working a cabled project and notice you crossed a cable wrong you can drop the involved stitches down to the error, and work them back up rather then ripping out all the stitches on all the intervening rows.

About the only time this won’t work is if you need to add stitches you forgot. In that case you won’t have enough slack in the surrounding yarn and the repaired area with be too tight. (I was able to increase a stitch because I’d already worked it before the disaster occurred.)

You also can’t really decrease a stitch. In that case you might have too much slack after the repair is done.

If you want to test this method in a more relaxed situation you can knit a generous sized swatch in a worsted weight yarn, drop some stitches in the middle, and reknit them for practice.

I know it sounds scary, but it’s a good skill to have. Then the next time your pet gets into your project bag you’ll have confidence in dealing with the fall out.

If the idea of this repair seems too complicated an alternative would be to run a lifeline (or smaller sized needle) through the row below the point where the dropped stitches stopped. Remember to pick up the right hand leg of each stitch on your target row. Then rip with abandon confident your lifeline will hold the stitches. Ensure none of the stitches are twisted and continue knitting as though nothing happened.

Tags: WIPs
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Sock Tips: The Leg

February 8, 2012 in Ella Rae, Knitting Fever Inc, Mirasol, Noro, OnLine, Socks, Tips

Once you finish the cuff of your sock it’s smooth sailing down the leg.

While most people find the cuff can be tricky to start the leg can be as easy or hard as you decide to make it.

Consider the leg the canvas for your creativity. This is a good place to practice techniques or stitches you’ve been wanting to learn. You can try your hand at lace, cables, Fair Isle, or any number of knitting tricks without the commitment of an entire sweater.

Lace socks are lovely.

For instance, these Leaf Lace Socks from the Knit Noro book are a good way to practice lace knitting.

Since socks are small they are a good project to test something out and if you decide you don’t like it you don’t have to worry about leaving a large project unfinished. They are also a good choice for testing a new yarn or indulging in a special yarn.

Custom Fit

Some people don’t like hand knit socks because they fall down. That might be a simple matter of improperly sized socks. While it is obvious that socks that are too big will fall down, the book “Getting Started Knitting Socks” by Ann Budd (Interweave Press, 2007) says socks that are too small will shift down as well.

Most sock patterns are sized for the widest part of your foot on the assumption that it will be similar to the size of the top of your leg. But since people are different that isn’t always the case. Unlike commercial socks, you can easily change your hand knit socks to accommodate those differences.

The leg is a good the place to make adjustments to your sock size and how it fits.

If you want more room in the cuff of the sock for your calf you can cast on enough stitches to fit there and then decrease down the sock leg to the ankle. If you are working toe up you would flip that suggestion and increase up the sock leg.

It’s a simple matter of measuring your leg where you want the cuff to be and your ankle. Multiple those numbers by your gauge to get your target stitch counts. Then subtract them to figure out how many stitches to decrease (or increase). Then work the decreases at regular intervals down the leg. You don’t want to work them all at once because the change in size will be too abrupt and the sock will probably be restrictive in that area.

For more of a discussion on applying knitting math to shaping check out the “sleeve” section of The Knitting Architect on our website.

Budd suggests knitting the cuff and upper leg on a knitting needle one size larger than you plan to use. Many people, she writes, find the larger gauge from the bigger needle provides enough room.

Knee high socks are fun, but take more yarn.

Another time shaping will be important is if you make knee-high or thigh-high socks, like these Rainbow Knee-Highs that are also in the Knit Noro book. (The ruffled cuff can be worn up as shown or folded down.)

For taller socks you’ll want to work shaping to accommodate the change in circumference from your calf to your ankle. If you are following a pattern the designer will have figured it out for you. If you want to design tall socks yourself, Elizabeth Zimmermann has a discussion along with a legging pattern in her “Knitters Almanac” which could be adapted.

Yarn Amounts

Most sock patterns are written for crew length socks, but there is no reason you can’t go longer (or shorter). If you aren’t sure of what length to make the leg, a good rule of thumb (maybe it should be a rule of toe? tee-hee) is to make it as long as the hand of the person who will be wearing it. This rule is very convenient if you are making them for yourself since you can just lay your hand on your knitting to check the length and not have to worry about fishing out your tape measure.

If you do make tall socks keep your yarn consumption in mind.

Some sock yarns come in high yardage balls, such as Noro’s Silk Garden Sock with 328 yards and Taiyo Sock with 462 yard, which is usually enough to get a pair of crew length socks out of one ball of yarn. Other yarns come in slightly smaller balls, like OnLine’s Supersocke Silk with 220 yards, which usually require two balls to make a pair.

In either case, a pair of knee- or thigh-high socks will usually need three or even four balls of yarn to ensure you don’t run out. Conversely, a pair of ankle socks might only need one ball. The staff at your local yarn store will be able to guide you in the proper amount of yarn to purchase.

Yarn usage is a good argument for knitting socks toe-up. You divide your yarn in half and just knit to you run out!

Design Options

Striped Socks are a good way to use up scraps.

As I said at the beginning, the leg can be as plain or fancy as you desire.

When using fun self-patterning yarns, like the OnLine Supersocke yarns or the Indulgence 6ply pictured at the top of this post, you can knit plain old stockinette stitch and still end up with a fabulous sock because the yarn does all the work. Plain socks are good projects to have on the go so you can knit without paying attention.

Another good option is continuing the cuff ribbing down the leg. Some people prefer the way ribbed socks fit. This is also a simple pattern for automatic knitting.

Striped socks, like the pair pictured above from Ella Rae book #114-Lace Merino & Latte are a good way to use up scraps. If you work the color changes every two rows you can usually carry the yarn, rather than cutting it, and save yourself from having a ton of ends to weave in. On the Ella Rae sock you can see the cuff and foot were worked in a solid color to tie it all together.

Colorwork socks are nice and warm.

For more of a challenge work a patterned leg, like these Sparrowhawk socks from Mirasol Book #06-Accessories Collection.

An important thing to remember with color work socks is that the strands will take up room inside the socks, which might make them smaller. If you are following a pattern the designer will have account for that in the sizing options. But don’t let the potentially tricky sizing put you off, the floats (strands) from the color changes also make the socks extra cushy and warm.

Get Schooled

Still intimidated by knitting socks? Check for a class at your local yarn store. Most stores run beginner sock classes on a regular basis since they are such popular projects but can be tricky when you start out.

During the class the teacher will probably review what type of yarn to use, how to make fit adjustments, and walk you through the tricky bits. You also get the companionship of working on a project with a group of people who will be able to encourage each other and cheer accomplishments.

Of course, there are also many resources online. I like the information available at the Socknitter Forum. I’ve seen a lot of praise online for Silver’s Sock Class (but I haven’t tried it myself). For experienced sock knitters, don’t forget there are tons of great sock patterns on Knitty.com.

What are some tips you have for getting a good sock fit?

Tags: socks
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Sock Tips: Fit and Cuffs

January 3, 2012 in Socks, Tips

You want to learn to knit socks, but don’t know where to start?

This is an understandable goal. Socks are fun, portable, and useful knitting projects.

They also qualify, in my book, as “knitting magic.” A few simple steps and you have this very cool item. Non-knitters are usually impressed. Knitters who don’t knit socks are also impressed, but on a deeper level.

Knitting your first sock will be exciting, scary, and intimidating all at the same time. But when you are done you will have a great sense of satisfaction and accomplishment.

A sock was the third project I made after learning how to knit. (My first project was a garter stitch shawl, which I abandoned because it was boring and I wanted to learn how to purl. My second project was a sweater, because why do things half-way?)

I used a free pattern that came with the yarn and stumbled through with the help of knitting books from the library and information I could find on the internet. You can make your life easier by signing up for a sock knitting class at your local yarn store. The teacher will be able to guide you in pattern, yarn, and needle selection and will be there to answer questions as you go along.

If you do go it alone, prepare yourself for the fact that your first sock might not be your most attractive knitting project. But your second sock, after you’ve learned all the steps involved, will probably show great improvement.

I’m not going to be providing a pattern in these “Sock Tips” blog posts. There are already many beautiful sock patterns in the world. Instead, I will be offering tips and advice to keep in mind as you work on your first sock.

Hopefully experienced socks knitters will also find something of use. As well as chiming in with tips of their own.

Although much of the information I’m going to share is based on my own experience I can’t claim it’s all original as I’ve read many books and attended many classes about sock knitting, but I also can’t point to direct sources. So let’s say I’m passing on collected wisdom and you’ll probably see these tips in other sources during your knitting career.

Fit and Ease

The great thing about hand knit socks is they are customized to fit you.

You can make the leg as long or as short as you want.

You can start with a wide cuff and decrease to fit a narrow ankle.

You can make the foot the correct length so you don’t have baggy toes.

And that all comes back to fit and ease.

It might take some trial and error, i.e., a couple pairs of socks, before you decide on just how you want your socks to fit.

You want your sock to be snug, but not too tight. A snug sock is more likely to stay up and not slouch down into your shoes.

In general, socks are knit with negative ease ranging from 1/2″ to 1″. What do I mean by negative ease? Ease refers to how much “breathing room” there is between you and your garment. So if your foot measures 8″ at the widest part a sock with no ease would also measure 8″. A sock with negative ease will measure less than 8″. (By the same token a sock with positive ease would measure more than 8″, but you would probably only want that for slippers or bed socks.)

For example, my foot measures 8″ around the ball (the widest part). I like -1″ of ease so I calculate my socks based on a 7″ circumference.

Most commercial patterns already account for the ease and you can just follow the correct size for your foot. If you start customizing patterns you’ll want to consider ease and adjust your stitch count accordingly.

Most commercial sock patterns are based on foot size. The assumption is that there is a correlation between the size of your foot and the size of your leg. The sizes in patterns will reference either shoe size or foot circumference.

If the measurements in the pattern don’t suit you, it is a simple matter of applying your measurements to your gauge to adjust your stitch count. For instructions on how to accomplish that check out “The Knitting Architect” on our website. This free book outlines how to design or adjust a sweater, but the principles are the same for adjusting a sock.

The Cuff

Now, you’ve selected your pattern, yarn, needles, decided how snug you want your sock to be, and are ready to get going.

There are three areas of a sock that usually trip up new sock knitters (they sometimes get experienced sock knitters, too!): Starting The Cuff, The Heel Turn, and Closing the Toe.

Unfortunately, unless you are knitting your sock toe-up, the first thing you’ll encounter is The Cuff.

The difficulties you encounter when starting will vary depending on how experienced a knitter you are in general and how you feel about double pointed needles.

First: Beware of twisted stitches. If you knit anything in the round–a hat, sleeves, etc., you already know what this is.

Not a sock, but you can see the twist.

You want to ensure all the stitches are aligned an not flipped around the needles at all or you will get a permanent twist in your sock and have to start over. On double pointed needles be aware the twist might be between needles and you might have to rotate the entire needle, not just a few stitches.

Second: It’s going to be fiddly and floppy. People who aren’t accustomed to working on double points will especially have this issue. Have faith and stick with it. After a few rows the fabric will be substantial enough to offer stability and things will get easier.

If you are feeling impatient, there are a few ways to address this issue.

One option is to work the first few rows flat, then join to work in the round. You will have to go back and sew a little seam to close the gap. Some people find this is easier because it helps them avoid a twisted cast on and is more stable when they do start to work in the round.

Another option is to knit your sock on two circular needles instead of double pointed needles. Many local yarn stores offer classes in this method. There are also books devoted to this method that should be easy to find at your local yarn store.

Finally, you can use the “magic loop” method. This is done by using a very, very long circular needle and sliding the stitches around on the cable and needle tips. Again, you can find classes and books for this method at your local yarn store.

Cast On

That’s about all I can tell you about the cuff.

It can be ribbed, ruffled, or patterned.

It can be as deep or shallow as you desire.

It is also the first step in your sock knitting career.

Now go cast on and join the legions of knitters who love knitting socks.

Tags: socks
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