Baby Booties and a Book Review

December 28, 2012 in Elsebeth Lavold, Socks

The New Born Baby Hat I knit for my friends earlier in the week took so little yarn that I had more than half the ball of Elsebeth Lavold Favorite Wool I used left over.

So I knit a second hat (my cousin is due to have a baby in early January).

Newborn hat

A little hat for a little head

I still had quite a bit of the yarn left so I thought I’d push my luck and try to make a pair of baby booties as well.

I wasn’t feeling very creative and decided to use an existing pattern where someone else had already done the hard work of designing the booties.

Happily, I remembered the was a small and simple pattern in the back of “Knitting in Plain English” by Maggie Righetti.

Baby booties

Little Frankenstein booties!

The pattern in the book calls for a seed stitch edge to match the sweater and bonnet patterns that are also in the book, but I made a garter stitch edge instead to match my hat.

Aren’t they fun little Frankenstein booties?

They knit up very quickly and don’t take much yarn at all. However, I did use the rest of my ball of yarn and was starting to get nervous on the second booty.

Considering I got two little hats and a pair of booties out of the one ball of Favorite Wool I think I did a pretty good job of using it up!

The three patterns in the book are learning patterns, which means they are simple for an experienced knitter but offer challenges to improve your skills for a beginner or even intermediate knitters.

The booties are good practice for knitting in the round, but not really instructive for learning socks since they don’t have the same construction as regular sock would.

There was only one tricky part in the pattern. When you are done knitting the booty, the pattern says to turn in inside out and work a three needle bind off to close the bottom.

booty done

Turn it inside out, what?

I sat there for a minute looking at what you see here and tried to figure out how I would get my long double pointed needles through that little bitty sole without loosing all my stitches.

I actually started to slide the project toward one end of the needles thinking that would make it easier to swing them through.

Luckily, before I got to far with that effort, my common sense returned and I realized I was approaching the project from the wrong end.

booty flipped

Push the booty, not the needles.

I didn’t have to push the needles through the booty. I had to push the booty through the needles! Sometimes the solution is too simple.

A quick bind off and I was done.

Of course, the three needle bind off creates a ridge on the inside of the booty, but these aren’t really walking socks. If you want to avoid the ridge I don’t see why you can’t Kitchener stitch the bottom shut instead.

Knitting in Plain English

This is a good book to have in your library. You should pick up a copy the next time you’re at your local yarn store.

It’s probably more helpful for a beginner knitter as it provides a lot of basic information, but even as an experienced knitter (I only bought my copy last year) I picked up some tips and useful information.

There were also good reminders about how to do some techniques better and to not get stressed out over your knitting.

As with any book not everyone will find it universally appealing. Personally, I like Righetti’s writing style. She’s been in the business for a while and it was interesting to see her contrast how things were done when she first started compared to how they are done these days.

For instance, she says when she first started out knitters were more likely to make up their own patterns on the fly. Or the staff at the yarn store would design simple sweaters to a customers specifications.

These days we have access to so many patterns that service is no longer necessary. Actually, there are a few specialty stores that will still do custom designs, but I think it’s fairly costly.

Along those lines, I’ve seen information in the Knitting Fever archives about a primitive computer system local yarn stores could purchase that would produce custom patterns. Of course, these days you can purchase a software program that you can use in the comfort of your own home.

Lacking the special software, you can also fall back on “The Knitting Architect” on our website, which walks you through the basics of sweater design. I would also recommend Righetti’s “Sweater Design in Plain English” if customizing sweaters is something you want to pursue.

Whoops! I just wandered far from my topic, didn’t I? Since we’re wandering, which reference books would you recommend?

Baby Booties and hat

Look! A set!

Knit Simple Holiday 2012

September 20, 2012 in Debbie Bliss, Noro, Socks, Sweaters

The Holiday 2012 issue of Knit Simple magazineis hitting store shelves October 2.

Knit Simple Holiday 2012 cover

Knit Simple Holiday 2012, photographs by Paul Amato for LVARepresents.com; Rose Callahan; Jack Deutsch and Marcus Tullis

As you would expect, it is full of great projects to make for yourself or your loved ones.

Two patterns feature our yarns and are just charming!

Eco Baby sweaters

Knit Simple Holiday 2012, photographs by Paul Amato for LVARepresents.com; Rose Callahan; Jack Deutsch and Marcus Tullis

Striped Pullovers
Designer: Debbie Bliss
For sizes: 3-6 (6-9, 9-12, 12-18, 18-24) months
Yarn Information: Debbie Bliss/KFI Eco Baby
Amounts: Boy’s version: 2 (2, 3, 3, 4) balls in #05 aqua; 1 (1, 2, 2, 2) balls in #06 apple
Girl’s version: 2 (2, 3, 3, 4) balls in #13 coral; 1 (1, 2, 2, 2) balls in #11 pale pink
Debbie Bliss designed these cute sweaters using her Eco Baby yarn. (Where does she find the time?)
There are six new colors of this 100% Organic Cotton yarn. You’ll be able to mix and match to create just the right look for the young one in your life.
Noro Socks

Knit Simple Holiday 2012, photographs by Paul Amato for LVARepresents.com; Rose Callahan; Jack Deutsch and Marcus Tullis

Lace Cuff Socks
Designer: Karen Baumer
For sizes: Adult Woman
Yarn Information: Noro/KFI Silk Garden Sock
Amounts: 1 skein in #252 black/green/blue
These great socks were designed by Karen Baumer using Noro Silk Garden Sock yarn. The cuff really makes these socks stand out.
The Noro colors will be a great way to bright up a drab winter day, too.
Preview the rest of the magazine on the Knit Simple website.
Look for the magazine, and supplies, at your local yarn store.
Do you knit and crochet a lot of holiday gifts?

 

Sock Tips: The Leg

February 8, 2012 in Ella Rae, Knitting Fever Inc, Mirasol, Noro, OnLine, Socks, Tips

Sock Anatomy

Once you finish the cuff of your sock it’s smooth sailing down the leg.

While most people find the cuff can be tricky to start the leg can be as easy or hard as you decide to make it.

Consider the leg the canvas for your creativity. This is a good place to practice techniques or stitches you’ve been wanting to learn. You can try your hand at lace, cables, Fair Isle, or any number of knitting tricks without the commitment of an entire sweater.

Leaf Lace Socks

Lace socks are lovely.

For instance, these Leaf Lace Socks from the Knit Noro book are a good way to practice lace knitting.

Since socks are small they are a good project to test something out and if you decide you don’t like it you don’t have to worry about leaving a large project unfinished. They are also a good choice for testing a new yarn or indulging in a special yarn.

Custom Fit

Some people don’t like hand knit socks because they fall down. That might be a simple matter of improperly sized socks. While it is obvious that socks that are too big will fall down, the book “Getting Started Knitting Socks” by Ann Budd (Interweave Press, 2007) says socks that are too small will shift down as well.

Most sock patterns are sized for the widest part of your foot on the assumption that it will be similar to the size of the top of your leg. But since people are different that isn’t always the case. Unlike commercial socks, you can easily change your hand knit socks to accommodate those differences.

The leg is a good the place to make adjustments to your sock size and how it fits.

If you want more room in the cuff of the sock for your calf you can cast on enough stitches to fit there and then decrease down the sock leg to the ankle. If you are working toe up you would flip that suggestion and increase up the sock leg.

It’s a simple matter of measuring your leg where you want the cuff to be and your ankle. Multiple those numbers by your gauge to get your target stitch counts. Then subtract them to figure out how many stitches to decrease (or increase). Then work the decreases at regular intervals down the leg. You don’t want to work them all at once because the change in size will be too abrupt and the sock will probably be restrictive in that area.

For more of a discussion on applying knitting math to shaping check out the “sleeve” section of The Knitting Architect on our website.

Budd suggests knitting the cuff and upper leg on a knitting needle one size larger than you plan to use. Many people, she writes, find the larger gauge from the bigger needle provides enough room.

Noro Knee-high socks

Knee high socks are fun, but take more yarn.

Another time shaping will be important is if you make knee-high or thigh-high socks, like these Rainbow Knee-Highs that are also in the Knit Noro book. (The ruffled cuff can be worn up as shown or folded down.)

For taller socks you’ll want to work shaping to accommodate the change in circumference from your calf to your ankle. If you are following a pattern the designer will have figured it out for you. If you want to design tall socks yourself, Elizabeth Zimmermann has a discussion along with a legging pattern in her “Knitters Almanac” which could be adapted.

Yarn Amounts

Most sock patterns are written for crew length socks, but there is no reason you can’t go longer (or shorter). If you aren’t sure of what length to make the leg, a good rule of thumb (maybe it should be a rule of toe? tee-hee) is to make it as long as the hand of the person who will be wearing it. This rule is very convenient if you are making them for yourself since you can just lay your hand on your knitting to check the length and not have to worry about fishing out your tape measure.

If you do make tall socks keep your yarn consumption in mind.

Some sock yarns come in high yardage balls, such as Noro’s Silk Garden Sock with 328 yards and Taiyo Sock with 462 yard, which is usually enough to get a pair of crew length socks out of one ball of yarn. Other yarns come in slightly smaller balls, like OnLine’s Supersocke Silk with 220 yards, which usually require two balls to make a pair.

In either case, a pair of knee- or thigh-high socks will usually need three or even four balls of yarn to ensure you don’t run out. Conversely, a pair of ankle socks might only need one ball. The staff at your local yarn store will be able to guide you in the proper amount of yarn to purchase.

Yarn usage is a good argument for knitting socks toe-up. You divide your yarn in half and just knit to you run out!

Design Options

Ella Rae Striped Socks

Striped Socks are a good way to use up scraps.

As I said at the beginning, the leg can be as plain or fancy as you desire.

When using fun self-patterning yarns, like the OnLine Supersocke yarns or the Indulgence 6ply pictured at the top of this post, you can knit plain old stockinette stitch and still end up with a fabulous sock because the yarn does all the work. Plain socks are good projects to have on the go so you can knit without paying attention.

Another good option is continuing the cuff ribbing down the leg. Some people prefer the way ribbed socks fit. This is also a simple pattern for automatic knitting.

Striped socks, like the pair pictured above from Ella Rae book #114-Lace Merino & Latte are a good way to use up scraps. If you work the color changes every two rows you can usually carry the yarn, rather than cutting it, and save yourself from having a ton of ends to weave in. On the Ella Rae sock you can see the cuff and foot were worked in a solid color to tie it all together.

Mirasol Sparrowhawk socks

Colorwork socks are nice and warm.

For more of a challenge work a patterned leg, like these Sparrowhawk socks from Mirasol Book #06-Accessories Collection.

An important thing to remember with color work socks is that the strands will take up room inside the socks, which might make them smaller. If you are following a pattern the designer will have account for that in the sizing options. But don’t let the potentially tricky sizing put you off, the floats (strands) from the color changes also make the socks extra cushy and warm.

Get Schooled

Still intimidated by knitting socks? Check for a class at your local yarn store. Most stores run beginner sock classes on a regular basis since they are such popular projects but can be tricky when you start out.

During the class the teacher will probably review what type of yarn to use, how to make fit adjustments, and walk you through the tricky bits. You also get the companionship of working on a project with a group of people who will be able to encourage each other and cheer accomplishments.

Of course, there are also many resources online. I like the information available at the Socknitter Forum. I’ve seen a lot of praise online for Silver’s Sock Class (but I haven’t tried it myself). For experienced sock knitters, don’t forget there are tons of great sock patterns on Knitty.com.

What are some tips you have for getting a good sock fit?

Sock Tips: Fit and Cuffs

January 3, 2012 in Socks, Tips

You want to learn to knit socks, but don’t know where to start?

This is an understandable goal. Socks are fun, portable, and useful knitting projects.

They also qualify, in my book, as “knitting magic.” A few simple steps and you have this very cool item. Non-knitters are usually impressed. Knitters who don’t knit socks are also impressed, but on a deeper level.

Knitting your first sock will be exciting, scary, and intimidating all at the same time. But when you are done you will have a great sense of satisfaction and accomplishment.

A sock was the third project I made after learning how to knit. (My first project was a garter stitch shawl, which I abandoned because it was boring and I wanted to learn how to purl. My second project was a sweater, because why do things half-way?)

I used a free pattern that came with the yarn and stumbled through with the help of knitting books from the library and information I could find on the internet. You can make your life easier by signing up for a sock knitting class at your local yarn store. The teacher will be able to guide you in pattern, yarn, and needle selection and will be there to answer questions as you go along.

If you do go it alone, prepare yourself for the fact that your first sock might not be your most attractive knitting project. But your second sock, after you’ve learned all the steps involved, will probably show great improvement.

I’m not going to be providing a pattern in these “Sock Tips” blog posts. There are already many beautiful sock patterns in the world. Instead, I will be offering tips and advice to keep in mind as you work on your first sock.

Hopefully experienced socks knitters will also find something of use. As well as chiming in with tips of their own.

Although much of the information I’m going to share is based on my own experience I can’t claim it’s all original as I’ve read many books and attended many classes about sock knitting, but I also can’t point to direct sources. So let’s say I’m passing on collected wisdom and you’ll probably see these tips in other sources during your knitting career.Sock Anatomy

Fit and Ease

The great thing about hand knit socks is they are customized to fit you.

You can make the leg as long or as short as you want.

You can start with a wide cuff and decrease to fit a narrow ankle.

You can make the foot the correct length so you don’t have baggy toes.

And that all comes back to fit and ease.

It might take some trial and error, i.e., a couple pairs of socks, before you decide on just how you want your socks to fit.

You want your sock to be snug, but not too tight. A snug sock is more likely to stay up and not slouch down into your shoes.

In general, socks are knit with negative ease ranging from 1/2″ to 1″. What do I mean by negative ease? Ease refers to how much “breathing room” there is between you and your garment. So if your foot measures 8″ at the widest part a sock with no ease would also measure 8″. A sock with negative ease will measure less than 8″. (By the same token a sock with positive ease would measure more than 8″, but you would probably only want that for slippers or bed socks.)

For example, my foot measures 8″ around the ball (the widest part). I like -1″ of ease so I calculate my socks based on a 7″ circumference.

Most commercial patterns already account for the ease and you can just follow the correct size for your foot. If you start customizing patterns you’ll want to consider ease and adjust your stitch count accordingly.

Most commercial sock patterns are based on foot size. The assumption is that there is a correlation between the size of your foot and the size of your leg. The sizes in patterns will reference either shoe size or foot circumference.

If the measurements in the pattern don’t suit you, it is a simple matter of applying your measurements to your gauge to adjust your stitch count. For instructions on how to accomplish that check out “The Knitting Architect” on our website. This free book outlines how to design or adjust a sweater, but the principles are the same for adjusting a sock.

The Cuff

Now, you’ve selected your pattern, yarn, needles, decided how snug you want your sock to be, and are ready to get going.

There are three areas of a sock that usually trip up new sock knitters (they sometimes get experienced sock knitters, too!): Starting The Cuff, The Heel Turn, and Closing the Toe.

Unfortunately, unless you are knitting your sock toe-up, the first thing you’ll encounter is The Cuff.

The difficulties you encounter when starting will vary depending on how experienced a knitter you are in general and how you feel about double pointed needles.

First: Beware of twisted stitches. If you knit anything in the round–a hat, sleeves, etc., you already know what this is.

Twisted cast on

Not a sock, but you can see the twist.

You want to ensure all the stitches are aligned an not flipped around the needles at all or you will get a permanent twist in your sock and have to start over. On double pointed needles be aware the twist might be between needles and you might have to rotate the entire needle, not just a few stitches.

Second: It’s going to be fiddly and floppy. People who aren’t accustomed to working on double points will especially have this issue. Have faith and stick with it. After a few rows the fabric will be substantial enough to offer stability and things will get easier.

If you are feeling impatient, there are a few ways to address this issue.

One option is to work the first few rows flat, then join to work in the round. You will have to go back and sew a little seam to close the gap. Some people find this is easier because it helps them avoid a twisted cast on and is more stable when they do start to work in the round.

Another option is to knit your sock on two circular needles instead of double pointed needles. Many local yarn stores offer classes in this method. There are also books devoted to this method that should be easy to find at your local yarn store.

Finally, you can use the “magic loop” method. This is done by using a very, very long circular needle and sliding the stitches around on the cable and needle tips. Again, you can find classes and books for this method at your local yarn store.

Cast On

That’s about all I can tell you about the cuff.

It can be ribbed, ruffled, or patterned.

It can be as deep or shallow as you desire.

It is also the first step in your sock knitting career.

Now go cast on and join the legions of knitters who love knitting socks.

Knit Year Resolutions

January 1, 2012 in Ella Rae, Juniper Moon Farm Yarns, Knitting Fever Inc, miscellaneous, Socks, Sweaters

Happy 2012!

A new year, like a new ball of yarn, is always so full of promise and potential. What shall we make of it? Something for ourselves? Something for others? Can we find a way to do both?

Blue sock

Indulgence 6 ply Distrato yarn

I suppose all that potential is partially responsible for the urge to make New Year’s Resolutions. We want to make sure we don’t waste this opportunity. Unlike knitting, it’s hard to swatch a year. Ha! You really do have to jump in and hope for the best.

Alas, as we all know, most New Year’s Resolutions end up broken or forgotten by the end of January. Instead of helping us improve, they make us feel worse when we beat ourselves up over breaking them.

For this reason I keep my New Year’s Resolutions vague with things like “I’ll be a better person.” Besides, I think every day is a new opportunity to improve!

While I don’t go for the big, common resolutions like “loose weight and exercise more” I can get behind knitting and yarn related resolutions. After all, knitting is what I do for fun and relaxation and I already believe that every project is a chance to learn something new.

Getting Ideas

Since general resolutions tend to be similar I wondered if Knitting Resolutions were as well. To find out I started reading through the New Year Knitting Resolutions thread on Ravelry.

Sure enough, the same resolutions kept popping up.

“I will only knit projects that touch my heart with yarns that bless my hands!”–Dogs5 on Ravelry

One was already on my own list: To finish projects.

Goodness knows we all have enough UFOs (UnFinished Objects) too keep us busy.

But if they have been unfinished for a while it might be time to let them go. Sort through them and really look at them with an honest eye. Why did you stop? Did you make a mistake you need help correcting? Is the sweater knit and just needs to be sewn together? Did you realize it is something you’ll never use? Are you no longer in love with the yarn? Was the break all you needed to return to this project and finish it?

Life is too short to knit projects you don’t love. Clear those UFOs out of your knitting basket and free yourself from the stress they are causing. If you aren’t going to finish it, give it to someone who will. If you need help head to your local yarn store to get it. While you’re there, see if they offer finishing services and pay someone to seam up that sweater.

You’ll recognize blue sock at the top of this post as a pair I started before Christmas using Indulgence 6 ply in a Distrato colorway. I’m pleased to announce the first sock is finished. On to the second sock!

A second one was to either learn to knit socks or knit more socks.

I applaud this goal. I love knitting socks. They are useful and, being small, easy to finish. I want to knit more socks this year.

If you have also made this resolution, we have a free Online Supersocke Pattern on our website you can download. It is in a chart form and covers 14 sizes(!). You find your foot size across the top, then plug the numbers in the column into the written directions.

By using inspiring yarn for your socks you’ll be motivated to finish them. The Supersocke Silk yarn from OnLine is a good choice. This yarn is a blend of 55% Merino Wool, 20% Silk, and 25% Nylon. The wool is soft, the silk gives it shine, and the nylon gives it strength. In addition to 24 solid colors there are seven self-patterning colors. There is nothing quite as fun as watching the stripes develop as you knit.

Lounge Socks

Lounge Socks from Ella Rae Luxury Knits

Another idea is to start with bulky slipper socks like these Lounge Socks from the Ella Rae Luxury Knits book. The bulky weight allows you to work through the elements involved in knitting a sock faster than you would with fingering weight yarn. Once you are familiar with all the steps you can cast on for light weight socks with confidence.

 A third one was to learn Fair Isle or color work.

This is another good one. I love knitting intarsia projects, but my Fair Isle skills aren’t so hot. Like most people I have trouble keeping the tension even.

For a skill like this, where lots of practice is key, I think a small project like the Fair Isle Boot Toppers from the Juniper Moon Farm Chadwick book would be a good place to start.

Boot Toppers

Boot Toppers from Juniper Moon Farm

The small size is not a big commitment in time and if things start going wrong you can move on to the next one quickly.

Since Chadwick comes in 202 yard balls you can get more than one pair of Boot Toppers out of the required amount. But another idea is to pair it with the ever popular Sluggy Bonnet. (Psst! You can download the Sluggy Bonnet pattern free from the Juniper Moon Farm blog!) Another great pattern for trying your hand at Fair Isle. This pattern is on my list and I just need to clear the needles and cast on already!

A final resolution was to knit a sweater.

I’ve knit several sweaters. But if there is a project I’m going to drop the ball on it’s a sweater. I won’t lie, they are a big time commitment. You really have to love both the yarn and the pattern to see a sweater through to completion.

My problems are in perseverance and finishing. Like many knitters I know sewing those seams just slays me. Of course, once I sit down and do it I have a great sense of accomplishment.

The people on Ravelry were running the gamut from making their first sweater ever to making their first sweater for themselves.

Baby Sweater from Baby Milk

Baby Sweater from Baby Milk

If you are debating your first sweater ever, I would suggest starting with a baby sweater, like the free patterns for these cute cardigans using Baby Milk yarn. This yummy yarn is a blend of 63% Extrafine Merino, 30% Milk Fiber, and 7% Cashmere. Don’t let the thin suggested gauge put you off, in the pattern the yarn is held doubled so the patterns move along quickly.

The advantage of starting with a baby sweater, even if you don’t have a baby in your life, is you quickly move through all the shaping elements you will encounter in an adult sweater. This is a good way to build your confidence and get yourself familiar with what to expect.

With a baby sweater under your belt you can confidently head to your local yarn store and select a sweater for yourself.

Take Care of Your Tools

A resolution I didn’t see on Ravelry, which I feel is very important, is to take care of your hands. They are, after all, your most important knitting tool!

Spend a few minutes a day making sure your fingernails are smooth and snag free. It’s hard to get a smooth knitting rhythm going if hangnails keep grabbing your yarn.

By the same principle, use a nice moisturizer to keep your skin soft. Have you ever noticed that the same yarn can feel wonderful one day and slightly rough the next? The yarn hasn’t changed, but your hands might have.

And, most importantly, remember to stop and stretch your fingers, hands, and wrists regularly. Flex your fingers a few times to warm them up before you start. Then put your knitting down periodically to flex them again. Since I like to knit while watching TV I find that commercial breaks are a good reminder to take a knitting break as well.

Remember, it will be hard to meet your knitting goals if you are sidelined with a hand injury!

What knitting resolutions have you set for yourself this year? Tell us in the comments here on the blog, or share on our Facebook wall.

Happy Knit Year!