Charm Knit Along & Book Giveaway

May 17, 2013 in Louisa Harding, Mitts

The other day I was emailing with my blogger friend Lisette and she mentioned she was planning to knit the Charm pattern from Louisa Harding’s Three Graces book as one of her next projects.

Photo by Stephen Jessup
Charm from Three Graces book by Louisa Harding

I said I had also been planning to knit Charm! Lisette was thinking of using shades of pink or blue. I had already selected a rich, blue colorway for mine.

My Grace Hand Dyed and Grace Hand Beaded.
Don’t you love the shine?

Then I thought, “Well if two’s company then three is a knit along,” and I thought I’d see if anyone else had this set of pretty fingerless mitts on their to-knit list.

If you’ve been putting it off, now is the time to bump them up the list! Add Charm to your Ravelry queue.

Photo by Stephen Jessup
Charm from Three Graces book by Louisa Harding

The Charm pattern will be good for an experienced knitter or someone ready to challenge themselves. There are cables and lace, but they are knit flat so you don’t have to worry about knitting in the round.

Charm by Midwest Yarn, a local yarn store in Wisconsin.

This version is at Midwest Yarn, a local yarn store in Wisconsin.

The pattern uses 2 hanks of Grace Hand Dyed for the multicolored version OR 2 hanks of Grace Wool and Silk for the solid color version. Both versions also take 1 hank of Grace Hand Beaded in a coordinating color for the trim.

Such rich colors!

Locate stores near you that carry Louisa Harding’s yarns and pattern by using the “find a store” feature on our main website and filtering by zip code and brand.

You have time to get your supplies. I have a few works in progress (WIPs) to finish up before I can start mine.

I’m planning to cast on June 1!

Charm will be a great project to work on as the weather warms up because they are small and portable. They’ll probably work up quickly, too!

This Ravelry user has a nice review of the pattern and yarn in her project notes.

They will come in handy (haha) when the air conditioning fires up later in the summer. I love wearing fingerless mitts while I type because they keep my hands warm but leave my fingers free.

Yes! They keep my fingers warm as well. I think it has something to do with your hands being warm so warm blood is circulating.

Three Graces Book Giveaway!

Photo by Stephen Jessup
Three Graces cover

To kick things off, I get to give away 5 copies of the Three Graces book! (US Residents only. Void where prohibited.)

Lisette is planning to knit her Charm for a gift. I’m planning to knit them for myself (I live in a cold area!).

To enter the giveaway, leave a comment on this blog post between now and midnight on Tuesday, May 21. Five winners will be selected randomly.

Tell me if you would knit them for yourself or someone else. Or why you like the pattern.

The Three Graces is full of pretty sweaters and accessories featuring the three Grace yarns: Wool & Silk, Hand Dyed, and Hand Beaded.

Photo by Stephen Jessup
Sweetness Cardi from Three Graces book by Louisa Harding

The Sweetness Cardi is another of my favorites from the book.

Photo by Stephen Jessup.
Grace bag from Three Graces book by Louisa Harding

The Grace bag is also adorable. It takes just one skein of Grace Hand Beaded. Wouldn’t it make a lovely gift or lavender sachet for your lingerie drawer?

Leave a comment to enter the giveaway! Winners will be selected and notified on Wednesday, May 22. When the comment system asked you to sign in make sure you use a real email address that you check regularly so I can contact you if you win.

To leave a comment, scroll down a little further and look for the box that says “leave a message”. It should be under the blue links and above the other comments people have already left. If you can see more than one blog post, look for the little blue “comment” link just a little bit down and to the right.

Tags: silk
406 Comments »

42nd Street Mitts–Concept

March 16, 2013 in Ella Rae, Inspiration, Mitts

Last weekend was spent visiting family and involved a lot of crisscrossing of the territory from New Jersey to Long Island.

Happily, I wasn’t driving so I got a lot of car knitting done!

On one of our crossings we popped out of the Lincoln Tunnel and ended up on 42nd Street.

On a Saturday evening.

In the middle of a bunch of cars and tourists.

On the bright side (aside from the fact that I wasn’t driving) the heavy traffic gave us plenty of time to enjoy the sights, sounds, and (ahem) smells of The City.

One of the sights that caught my eye was a woman wearing a very cute pair of cream colored arm warmers. The arms was just ribbing, but there was a black snowflake motif at the wrist.

Concept sketch for 42nd Street Mitts

We were moving so slowly that I probably had time to take a picture, but I didn’t think of it.

Heck, we were moving so slowly that I probably had time to jump out of the car, chase her down, take several pictures, and get back to the car before they’d gone to far. But I didn’t because jumping out of the car would have stressed everyone out.

So I just have my memory and imagination to recreate them!

As you can see from my sketch (and my drawing skills leave a lot to be desired!) I’ve probably embellished them a little bit.

Swatching

Since I’m basically designing the arm warmers from scratch, some swatching is in order.

First motif option

After flipping through all my stitch dictionaries, I found the image of a snowflake motif that I liked on page 89 of The Ultimate Knitting Book from Vogue Knitting.

My swatch is quite pleasant, although not quite what I had in mind, and I thought I’d go for it. (I think the snowflake on the lady’s mitts was thinner. More a a line snowflake with dots around it.)

But as I settled down recreate the chart an issue presented itself.

My swatch didn’t look like the knitted sample in the book despite the fact that I’d followed the accompanying chart.

This required two charts.

First I recreated the chart that appears in the book and that matches my swatch.

Then I created a chart based on the knitted sample in the book.

Both motif options

As you can see, the centers are rather different. Both motifs are 15 sts wide, but the first one is 19 rows tall while the second is 15 rows tall.

This discrepancy is going to set my designing back, but that is one of the reasons we swatch.

My next step will be working a swatch of the second motif so I can have a better idea of which one I prefer.

Go For It

In the mean time, this is probably enough information for other experienced knitters to run with the idea. Everyone else will have to wait until I’ve knit at least one mitt so I have good numbers for you!

This is what I have so far:

Materials:

Yarn: Ella Rae Classic Wool (black and white or colors of your selection)

Needles: US7

Gauge: I’m calling it 5.5 sts/inch, but it’s unclear. I worked a 19 stitch swatch and it’s about 3 1/2″ wide.

I’m thinking a motif on both the top and the bottom of the wrist so the yarn travels around the mitt. I’m thinking 40 sts for the motif section.

40 sts at 5.5 sts/inch should give you a 7″ circumference, which will fit my wee wrists.

I’m planning arm warmers, so I want them to reach up my forearm, which would mean casting on 56 sts for a 10″ circumference. Then gradually decreasing down to 40.

Maybe. It’s a work in progress.

Tags: arm warmers, WIPs
1 Comment »

Top Down Mittens: Thumb

January 5, 2013 in Ella Rae, Free, Mitts, Tips, Uncategorized

The top down mittens I’ve been knitting using Ella Rae Lace Merino Worsted yarn are almost done!

I’ve knit both thumbs and just have to finish off the cuff.

Now, I’m going to provide the pattern for the thumb, but you’ll have to remember you’re not locked into my numbers. You have to trust your knitter’s instinct and pick up more stitches to close up the holes in the corners.

The only thing you’ll have to worry about is to have a number divisible by 3 (so 18 or 21 stitches) in order to have the decreases work properly.

Late to the party? You can find the start of the mittens here. And the Thumb Gusset here.

Thumb Pattern

Transfer the stitches for the thumb from the holders to two needles. (16 sts)

Attach the working yarn to the bottom of the thumb and knit across 12 sts.

Pick up one or more on the side of the hand to close the gap.

Knit across 4 sts on top of thumb.

Pick up one or more on side of hand to close gap.

You will not have anywhere from 18 to 22 on your needles. Divide stitches as evenly as possible on three needles. Attach a marker to this row for measuring later.

Knit in the round until thumb measures about 1″ from picked up sts.

If necessary, decrease as many sts as necessary on the next round to get to either 18 or 21 sts. (So if you have 22 sts, K2tog once. If you have 20 sts, K2tog, k half way around, k2tog, k to end)

Knit one round even.

Begin thumb decreases: K2tog at the beginning of each needle. K remaining sts on needle. (3 sts decreased)

K one round even

Alternate decrease round and knit even round until 6 sts remain.

Cut yarn, leaving a generous tail. Draw tail through remaining sts and pull tight.

Finish knitting cuffs. Bind off in rib pattern.

Weave in ends. Go play in the snow.

See what I mean about using your knitter’s instinct for the thumb? It’s good practice in visualizing the end result you want and just making the stitches get there.

One my first thumb I had 19 sts after picking up in the corners. After knitting for an inch, I knit two together at the beginning of the round because I think it’s easier to decrease with even numbers.

On the second thumb I had 18 sts after picking up in the corners, so I didn’t have to worry about decreasing until I got to the top of the thumb. The finished thumbs still match nicely.

Transferring Stitches

Now, an experienced knitter who has used a crochet chain provisional cast on won’t have any trouble transferring the stitches from the chain to the needles in order to knit the thumb.

A knitter who hasn’t used this method before might be puzzled. I had a little trouble getting picture of the process, but these should put you on the correct path.

If you do an internet search for “crochet provisional cast on” you’ll find options for videos and other blog posts about it. However, it might be easier to head down to your local yarn store for help in person. The other blog post pictures I saw did seem much more clear.

First, take a look at the picture up above and compare it to your own knitting. You can see nice, normal looking stitches pierced by the crochet chain. You’ll want to slide your knitting needle under the right hand leg of each stitch.

Really, you’ll just want to get the stitches onto your needle. You can worry about untwisting them later.

Once you’ve inserted your needle you can pull on the crochet chain and it will pop of out the knit stitch.

Some directions will have you just pull out the crochet chain all at once and trust your stitches not to run. I’m too nervous for that, so I take the more fiddly route and slowly pull the chain out as I go along.

You’ll have to decide how brave you are, and how slippery your yarn is, before you select a method.

This might be one of those techniques where you want to set up a practice piece to try it out before you apply it to your project.

The Length of a Cuff

You’ll remember from my last blog post that I was planning to knit the cuffs for at least 2 inches before working the thumb.

That’s just what I did.

The 2″ cuffs seemed rather short to me. Since I had plenty of yarn left I unpicked the bind off, reattached my yarn, and continued knitting the cuffs.

While the ribbing draws in, you might want to consider going down one needle size to make a more snug cuff. You might also want to knit a few more rows of stockinette stitch between the bottom of the thumb gusset and the start of the cuff ribbing.

Try it on and see what you think.

Our Facebook Fan Joyce S. says:

Way back when, I made mittens with a 2″-3″ cuff and a 1″ stocking knit before starting the thumb. Cuff would be long enough to tuck under coat sleeve and the space before the thumb made it fit better

After knitting on the cuff for a while I realized I didn’t know how long I should make it. The mittens are big for me, which is making it hard for me to judge the fit. They actually fit my husband nicely. I used his hand to judge the thumb size and the 2″ cuff was definitely short on him.

These mittens are for a friend in another state, so I can’t have her try them on. And they are sort of a surprise, so I don’t want to ask how long she’d like them.

Since I couldn’t ask my friend, I asked our Facebook fans.

The general range is from 2″ to 6″ with many people saying it depends on the person who will wear it. Many people like the cuff to be long enough to tuck into their coat sleeve.

Jennifer DD says:

Male or female? I’d use the Stephanie Purl McFee rules – use an index finger length or index finger to the first knuckle.

Amanda E gave me a giggle with her suggestion of:

Elbow length,’cuz elbow length mittens sound awesome.

Cali had an interesting guideline:

I do a standard hand width past the bottom of the thumb hole.

At this point, my cuffs are 4″ long and I still have a decent amount of yarn left.

I think I’m going to continue the cuff until I run out of yarn. That way my friend has options. She can wear them long or fold them down for extra warmth.

And if she doesn’t want a really long cuff she can ask one of the knitters near her (and there are plenty!) to shorten it for her. Since I’m ending at the cuff it will be a simple matter for them to unravel a bit and bind off.

What these long cuffs really mean is that my Top Down Mittens are a one skein project. Hooray! You will just need one hank of Ella Rae Lace Merino Worsted to knit your own pair.

This 100% Superwash Merino Wool yarn comes in a mix of 36 semi-solid and variegated colors. Which one would you use?

Tags: free pattern, mitten
2 Comments »

Top Down Mittens: Thumb Holes & Gusset

January 2, 2013 in Ella Rae, Mitts, Tips

When last you saw my green mittens (um, yesterday) knit using Ella Rae Lace Merino Worsted yarn I had knit the hand to the point where I was ready to add the thumb hole.

For mittens (and gloves) that are knit from the cuff to the fingers you’ll reach a point (usually just above the cuff) where you’ll start increasing for the thumb gusset. The gusset is to accommodate the extra width the base of the thumb gives to your hand.

In that style thumb you increase to a set number of stitches between your markers then either bind them off or place them on a stitch holder. Then you cast on new stitches to replace the missing stitches and continue knitting the hand.

You can see that type of thumb being used in the Chadwick Owl Arm Warmers I knit for my aunt last month.

Provisional Cast On

For my Top Down Mittens I’m going to build the thumb gusset in reverse.

First you place stitches on the hand on a holder for the top of the thumb hole. Next you cast on many stitches for the bottom of the thumb hole. Then you decrease all those extra stitches away to create the gusset.

Go under the bump on the back of the chain

Instead of just using a “backward e” cast on to bridge the gap of the thumb hole I decided to use a crochet chain provisional cast on.

This has a bit more stability than the “backward e” method and will also give me live stitches to use when I’m ready to knit the thumb since I’ll be able to unzip the crochet chain and transfer the stitches to a knitting needle.

If you use the backward e, or another closed cast on, you’ll have to pick up stitches along the edge of the thumb hole when you’re ready to knit your thumb.

To work this type of provisional cast on you’ll want a length of contrasting color yarn in a similar weight to your main yarn. I’m using a scrap of Sublime Extra Fine Merino Wool DK.

Work a crochet chain of more stitches than you’ll need. In this case I planned to pick up 12 stitches so I made a chain 20 stitches long. I often find that some of the chains are useable so having extra saves trouble down the line.

Take a look at the chain. One side will look like little Vs reminiscent of a column of knit stitches. The other side will have little bumps. You want to work on the bump side.

Insert your knitting needle under the bump and knit it as you normally would. That is what I’m doing in the picture, which just proves that one picture is worth a thousand words!

After you’ve picked up all your stitches in the crochet chain bumps you just resume knitting on the hand as though nothing unusual happened.

Oh! It’s helpful to place a stitch marker on the right hand needle before you start picking up the stitches on the chain and then another one when you’ve finished. That will target you’re gusset decreases.

Other Applications

I’m using the crochet chain provisional cast for my thumb hole, but there are many other places you can use it.

If you are working toe up socks you can start with this provisional cast on in combination with a short row toe.

You can use it for inserting a pocket into a sweater or cardigan.

Sometimes scarves have a pattern that has to be “upright.” In that case you might knit two separate pieces that are grafted together. You can use this provisional cast on in that situation.

Basically, if you want to have access to live stitches at a point in the future this might be a good option.

Yeah, thumb holes!

Pattern! Thumb hole & Gusset

The start of the mittens are in yesterday’s blog post.

After working the hand from the fingers down to the desired length start your thumb holes.

Right mitten:

Round 1: K22, place last 4 sts worked on a holder for later, K to end of round.

Round 2: K18, Pm (place marker), PU and knit 12 sts from crochet chain, PM, K to end

Round 3: K even

Round 4 (decrease round): K to marker, SM (slip marker) SSK, k to 2 sts before next marker, K2tog, SM, K to end

Round 5: K even

Alternate Decrease Round and Knit even round until you have 46 sts.

Next round: K2tog between markers.

Knit one round even.

Next round: Decrease one stitch to get to 44 sts total (I worked a k2tog in line with the other gusset decreases to keep thing neat.)

Knit one round even.

Left Mitten:

K6, Place last 4 sts worked on a holder, k to end.

K2, PM, PU 12 sts from crochet chain, PM, k to end.

Work shaping as for Right Mitten.

Cuff: Things are getting tricky

I plan to work a K2, P2 rib for the cuff.

I say things are getting tricky because I’m not sure how far my yarn will get me. Remember, I’m knitting these in real time as I’m posting! If I run out of yarn I’ll have learned my lesson and will finish the project before I start posting so we’ll all know what to expect. haha.

My plan is to knit the cuffs for 2″, break the yarn, knit the thumbs, and use any remaining yarn to expend the cuffs.

If you aren’t feeling daring you can always just knit the cuff and thumb in an alternate yarn from the start. The really safe thing to do would be buy to hanks of yarn at the beginning so you don’t have to worry about quantities!

2 At A Time

As you can see in these pictures, and as people on our Facebook page have already guessed, I’m knitting the mittens 2-at-a-time.

I use dpns and a circ to keep things organized

Usually people use two circular needles when they make socks or mittens two at a time.

I like to be different and use one circular and a set of double pointed needles instead. I find this system better enables me to keep track of where I am and see the flow of the knitting.

See, you have half the project on one needle and have the project on the other needle. You have to treat the halves as a single row or you’ll get all confused and end up working one mitten and ignoring the other, which defeats the purpose of working them simultaneously in order to keep them even!

By “working them as a single row’ I mean you have to knit both palms and then both tops in order. If you are going to put the project down you should make sure you are at the side. Don’t stop in the middle!

Some people use two different length circular needles (so a 24″ and a 32″) or two different styles as a cue for where they are. With my system I know that I’ll knit all the double pointed needles first. Then I’ll use the two ends of the circular needle to knit those stitches.

You can probably take a class for knitting projects two at a time at your local yarn store. They’ll probably offer it as a sock class since that seems to be the most common application. If you’ve been wanting to learn to knit socks you’ll be getting two techniques at once!

There are also probably videos available, but you can’t ask a video questions!

Tags: free pattern, mitten
3 Comments »

On The Needles: Top-Down Mittens

January 2, 2013 in Ella Rae, Mitts

Happy New Year!

Happy New Year!

I hope you sent 2012 off in fine fashion and are revved up to make 2013 a year full of fun, happiness, and yarn!

You will not be surprised to hear that I welcomed the New Year with yarn in one hand, a champagne toast in the other, a kiss from my beloved husband.

Doesn't look like much yet.

If you are a fan of our Facebook page my project will look familiar because I was teasing you with obscure pictures over the weekend.

When I posted this picture most people guessed I was working on a toe-up sock. While that is a reasonable assumption, I’m actually working on a pair of top-down mittens.

I started them using “Judy’s Magic Cast On“, which is a popular start for toe up socks.

The advantages of working mittens fingers down are similar to those of working socks toe up.

In my opinion it’s easier to control the length of the fingers when working top down. You can try the mitten on and when it reaches you’re thumb it’s long enough. The thumb acts as an anchor as opposed to cuff-up mittens that can slide around when you’re trying them on.

I also think it’s easier to make the cuff as long as you want when working fingers down. Again, the mitten is anchored by your fingers and thumb so you get a more accurate fit.

Finally, if you run out of yarn it makes more sense to have a different colored cuff then to have your finger tips a different color.

Same yarn, different looks

Mittens, like socks, move along quickly. That is lucky because these mittens were a long time coming.

At the end of last winter my friend Judy explained the lining had worn out of her a pair of old fashioned leather mittens and asked whether it would be possible for me to knit her a new lining. I said yes, but it was already spring time so I had months, and months before she would need them.

Of course, now winter is in full swing and I’m frantically knitting!

I’m using Ella Rae Lace Merino Worsted yarn in color #2-Greens. This 100% Superwash Merino Wool yarn comes in 218 yard hanks, so I’m hoping it will be enough for the pair. If not I have some black Classic Wool on standby for the cuff.

Wool is a great choice for mittens because it is warm, durable, and absorbent. Did you know that wool can continue to keep you warm even when it’s wet?

The Lace Merino Worsted will be soft and cozy for Judy’s fingers, but they will also be long lasting because yarn has a multiplied structure with a good twist.

A nice swirly pattern

After starting the first mitten I decided to work them two-at-a-time to ensure they come out even.

I was also afraid of accidentally working two right mittens! By working them at the same time I was sure to place my thumbs correctly.

A nice striped pattern

The mittens are turning into an interesting example of how hand-dyed yarn can have different results.

I’m working with both ends of the same ball of yarn, on the same knitting needles, with the same gauge and stitch count. The colors in the first mitten are coming up in a random, specked pattern, while the second mitten is coming up with stripes.

When you get those bands of color in a hand-dyed yarn is referred to as “pooling” or “flashing.” Some people don’t like pooling and will go to great lengths to avoid it.

The easiest way to do that is to use either two balls of yarn or the two tails of one ball of yarn and alternate working two rows from each. You work two rows because it makes it easier to swap your working yarn: the knit row takes you out and the purl row brings you back.

Other options are to work pattern stitches since the texture will draw up the yarn at a different rate and possibly break up the pooling. There are pattern books devoted to knitting with hand dyed yarns to use the unique properties to their best advantage. You should be able to find them at your local yarn store.

The Pattern So Far

At this point you are probably wondering what pattern I’m using so you can knit a pair of warm mittens of your own.

Well, I’m making them up as I go along, but I can share what I have so far. Knit slowly so I can keep ahead of you, ok? Experienced knitters will probably have better luck since the pattern isn’t finished yet.

Size: 8 1/2″ circumference. (I’m aiming for 1/2″ of ease for an 8″ circumference hand.)

Yarn: Ella Rae Lace Merino Worsted. At least one ball, maybe two.

Needles: US 6 dpns, or size needed to obtain gauge.

Gauge: 5.5 sts and 8 rows = 1″ in st st in the round.

Cast on 16 sts using Judy’s Magic Cast On (8 sts each on two needles)

K16

First needle: K1, M1R, K across to last stitch, M1L, K1. Repeat for second needle. (4 sts increased)

K even, dividing sts over 4 needles.

Alternate increase row (increasing at the sides of the mitten as established) and knit even row to 48 sts.

Work even until piece measures 5 1/2″ from cast on (or desired length).

The thumb hole will be next, but I have to figure it out still.

Stay tuned!

Tags: free pattern, mitten
No Comments »

Chadwick Owl Arm Warmers

December 5, 2012 in Free, Gloves, Juniper Moon Farm Yarns, Mitts

Arm warmers and fingerless mitts are pretty awesome in my book.

So warm and cozy!

I wear fingerless mitts practically year round. In the summer they are good for when the air-conditioning is too efficient and in the winter they are good when you want to stay warm but keep your fingers free.

Of course, you already know all this because of those Simple Striped Arm Warmers I knit recently using Mirasol Tuhu yarn.

What I didn’t mention was that I don’t like knitting fingers. Despite that fact that half fingers will help keep your hands warmer, I find knitting them fiddly and annoying.

Since I don’t think knitting (or crocheting) should be annoying I usually just knit some ribbing on the finger side of the mitt and call it a day.

Contrary to my anti-finger stance, you’ll notice that these Owl Arm Warmers have half fingers. That’s because these aren’t for me.

Owl arm warmers for my aunt

When I was visiting my mom for Thanksgiving she said my aunt had seen an ad for fingerless mitts in a magazine, but they were boring and utilitarian so she didn’t like them. She asked my mom whether I could knit her a pair instead.

My aunt was diagnosed with multiple sclerosis a few years ago and apparently it makes her arms cold sometimes. She doesn’t want to wear sweaters and such all the time and thought arm warmers would do the trick.

I was up to the challenge!

Using a soft, squishy yarn in a lovely color wasn’t enough. I wanted to jazz them up with a simple design. The ubiquitous owl cable fit the bill because my aunt has liked and collected owl figurines long before it became stylish.

Juniper Moon Farm Yarns Chadwick immediately came to mind as a good yarn for this project. This 60% Merino Wool, 40% Baby Alpaca blend yarn is not only as soft as a kitten but nice and warm as well. This smooth yarn has good stitch definition, which would enhance the cable. I decided to use color #6-Mercury. You can see all 12 colors here.

Eyes would make it more owly.

A note about yarn quantities.

I was hoping these arm warmers would be a one skein project, but I fell a few yards short of the goal.

Juniper Moon Farm Yarns Chadwick comes in generous 202 yard balls. If you knit the pattern as written you will use every inch of yarn and probably run out. In fact, I ran out and the left thumb is shorter than the right. Oops. Unfortunately, you’ll just need a wee amount of the second ball to finish up. You can make a matching headband with the second ball. Or make a second, shorter pair. Or shorten this pair. Or ditch the fingers. You’re a clever knitter; you’ll figure something out.

Owl Arm Warmers

Download a PDF version of the pattern here.

Size: To fit 8” hand circumference. 11” arm circumference at the elbow. 8 1/2” from wrist to elbow. 12 ¾” from fingers to cuff.

Materials:
Yarn: Juniper Moon Farm Chadwick (60% Merino Wool, 40% Baby Alpaca), 2 balls. Shown in #6-Mercury.
Needles: US 7 dpns (or size needed to obtain gauge)
Notions: Cable needle, scrap yarn to use as stitch holders

Gauge: 4.5 sts x 7 rows = 1” in st st in the round

Owl Cable
Rounds 1 & 2: P4, K8, P4
Round 3: P4, C4B, C4F, P4
Rounds 4-9: P4, K8, P4
Round 10: P4, C4B, C4F, P4
Rounds 11-15: P4, K8, P4
Round 16: P4, C4B, C4F, P4
Round 17, P4, C2B, K4, C2F, P4

Abbreviations:
CO-Cast on
C4B-slip next 2 sts to a cable needle and hold to back, K2, K2 from cable needle
C4F-slip next 2 sts to a cable needle and hold to front, K2, K2 from cable needle
C2B-slip next 1 st to a cable needle and hold to back, K1, K1 from cable needle
C2F-slip next 1 st to a cable needle and hold to front, K1, K1 from cable needle
Dec-Decrease
DPNs-Double pointed needles
K-Knit
KFB-Knit front and back
K2tog-Knit two stitches together
M1L-Make one left-insert left hand needle from front to back into horizontal bar between last st worked and the next st, K bar through back loop.
M1R-Make one right-insert left needle from back to front into horizontal bar between the last st worked and the next st, K bar through front loop.
P-Purl
PM-Place marker
P2tog-purl two stitches together
SM-Slip marker
SSK-Slip next two stitches individual knitwise to right needle, insert left needle into front of slipped stitches, k2tog
St(s)-Stitch(es)
St st-Stockinette Stitch

The Pattern:

Right arm warmer:
CO 52 sts.
Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist stitches. Place marker to note beginning of the round. Distribute stitches evenly on needles.

Work K2, P2 rib for 6 rounds
Round 7: K2tog, *P2, K2, repeat from * to last 2 sts, P2tog (50 sts)
Round 8: K1, *P2, K2, repeat from * to last st, P1
Rounds 9-13: Continue in rib as established.
Round 14: K1, P2tog, *K2, P2, repeat from * to last 3 sts, K2tog, P1. (48 sts)
Round 15: K1, P1, *K2, P2, repeat from * to last 2 sts, K1, P1

Round 16: change to stockinette stitch (knit all stitches, all row).
Continue in st st until piece measures 5” from cast on edge or desired length. AT THE SAME TIME, dec 2 sts every 7th round 5 times (i.e., Rounds 21 & 28: K1, K2tog, K to last 3 sts, SSK, K1)

Set up round for Owl Cable:
Round 35: K1, K2tog, K11, P16, K11, SSK, K1 (42 sts)
Round 36: K13, P16, K13
Note: when working Owl Cable it might be helpful to distribute work on 3 needles so there are 13 sts each on Needles 1 & 3 and 16 sts on Needle 2. That way the Owl is isolated to Needle 2.

Work Owl Cable over 16 sts on Needle 2. Knit all sts on Needles 1 & 3
Rounds 37 & 38: P4, K8, P4
Round 39: P4, C4B, C4F, P4
Rounds 40-45: P4, K8, P4 (Also, work decrease round as established on round 42 [40 sts])
Round 46: P4, C4B, C4F, P4
Rounds 47-51: P4, K8, P4 (Also, work decrease round as established on round 49 [38 sts])
Round 52: P4, C4B, C4F, P4
Round 53: P4, C2B, K4, C2F, P4

Rounds 54 & 55: K11, P16, K11
Continue in st st until piece measures 8 ½” from CO or desired length.
Work 3 more rows.

Start Thumb gusset:
Round 62: K29, PM, M1R, K2, M1L, PM, K to end
Round 63: K even
Round 64: K to marker, SM, M1R, K to next marker, M1L, SM, K to end
Round 65: K even
Repeat alternating Increase round and Knit even round 3 more times to 12 sts between markers, ending with a K even round.

Next round: K to first marker, place 12 sts between markers on a piece of scrap yarn for later. Remove markers. CO 2 sts using Backward E method. K to end
Work even in st st for 7 rounds or desired length.

Note: I found this “Ask a Knitter” article on Ravelry helpful when deciding where to pick up sts to minimize gaps at the base of the fingers.

Use locking stitch markers to help visualize the finger placement.

Work Fingers:
K 10 sts to get to the side of the hand.
Place all sts on a piece of scrap yarn.
Mark sts for fingers. 8 sts for pinky and 10 sts each for the other 3 fingers. Half the sts will come from the top of the hand and the other half will come from the palm of the hand.

Work Pinkie:
Transfer 4 sts from back of hand and 4 sts from palm to 2 dpns
K3, KFB twice, K3 (10 sts)
Work 5 rounds even.
Bind off all sts. Cut yarn leaving sufficient tail to weave in end.

To help prevent a gap at the base of the fingers, pick up the stitch on the holder.

Work Ring finger:
Transfer next 5 sts from back of hand and next 5 sts from palm to 2 dpns
With palm facing, attach yarn leaving sufficient tail to weave in end. K5, pick up 2 sts at base of Pinkie, K5 (12 sts)
Work 5 rounds even.
Bind off all sts. Cut yarn leaving sufficient tail to weave in end.

Repeat for next two fingers.

Work Thumb:
Transfer 12 held stitches to 2 or 3 dpns
Attach yarn, leaving sufficient tail to weave in end. K12, pick up 2 sts on side of hand (14 sts)
Work 5 rounds even.
Bind off all sts. Cut yarn leaving sufficient tail to weave in end.

Weave in ends. Note: Use the tails from attaching the yarn to close up any gaps at the base of the fingers.

Left arm warmer:
Work as for right, reversing thumb shaping and finger placement.

Left Thumb placement:
K7, PM, M1R, K2, M1L, PM, K to end.

Begin working fingers with the Pointer finger. 10 sts per finger. 8 for the pinkie.

I caught a snowflake!

Tags: arm warmers, cables, free pattern
8 Comments »

Crochet Noro Book

October 31, 2012 in bag, crochet, Hats, Mitts, Noro, Scarves, Sweaters

Noro has always been good about including a mix of both knitting and crochet in their pattern books.

You can see examples in the new Noro Passion book by Jane Ellison, in the Volume #31 book, and in the premier issue of Noro Magazine.

Now, after a few hard cover books dedicated to knitting patterns, there is an entire book of crochet patterns!

The Shades of Blue Shawl graces the cover

Crochet Noro brings together many of today’s favorite crochet designers and one of the world’s best-loved yarns to create to create a collection of incomparable beauty and originality. From exquisite shawls to stylish cardigans to quick-to-crochet accessories to fabulous bags and totes, this stylish book contains 30 gorgeous projects to entice every crocheter.

Eisaku Noro has been creating his world-renowned yarns in Japan’s Aichi province for more than forty years. Spun from the finest natural materials with great respect for enviromental concerns, these spectacular yarns are dyed exclusively by hand in a dazzling array of colors. The patterns in this artful collection employ several popular Noro yarns, including Silk Garden, Silk Garden Lite, Silk Garden Sock, Taiyo, Taiyo Sock, Kureyon and Shiraito.

These exciting projects are as much fun to stitch as they are to wear. If you aren’t yet hooked on Noro, you will be.

With so many awesome patterns from which to choose, it’s hard to select favorites.

Fortunately, I find that I crochet faster than I knit, which means I could work through the book at a good pace.

Since many of the projects are accessories that require just one or two balls of yarn there is a lot of crochet gift potential in this book as well.

Here are a few patterns that caught my eye.

Hats

Swirly Tam in Silk Garden Sock

This Swirly Tam is very attractive. I like how the ridges add visual interest.

It takes just one ball of Silk Garden Sock. So if you love that yarn, but don’t like making socks, this could be the pattern you’ve been waiting for.

Engineer Cap in Kureyon

Add a little bit of rebel to your wardrobe with the Engineer Cap. It also gives you a chance to use some of the great buttons you’ve been collecting.

This hat takes two balls of Kureyon. With 8 new colorways for the fall no two hats will be the same.

There are two other hats in the book, as well.

Scarves

Strawberry Lace Scarf in Shiraito

There are several scarf, cowl, and shawl patterns in the book. (See, good gift ideas abound!)

I think my favorite is the Strawberry Lace Scarf. I like the large size of the motifs, which has always been one of my favorite crochet designs.

There is no doubt this scarf is unique!

Crocheted using two hanks of Shiraito, a 45% Cashmere, 45% Angora, 10% Wool blend, this scarf is destined to become a favorite because the yarn is so soft and luxurious.

Mitts

There are two pairs of mitts in the book. The elegant and textured Shell Stitch Wristers and the fun Bobbled Mitts below.

Bobbled Mitts in Silk Garden Lite

The Bobbled Mitts are crocheted using two hanks of Silk Garden Lite.

Maybe it’s because we’re still getting rain and clouds from Hurricane Sandy, but the bright, happy colors used in the sample pair make me smile.

Sweaters

Cap Sleeve Cardigan in Taiyo Sock Yarn

Just because I’ve highlighted small projects don’t think this book is all accessories. There are several sweaters as well and even a skirt.

I like the circular design of the Cap Sleeve Cardigan. It’s very visually appealing.

Crocheted using 3 to 4 balls of Taiyo Sock Yarn, a 50% Cotton, 17% Wool, 17% Nylon, 16% Silk blend, this cardigan will be a year round staple in your wardrobe.

It’s just the right size for chasing a chill in doors or wearing over a sun dress outside.

Purses and more!

Flower Blossom Purse in Kureyon

In addition to the projects you can wear, there are 3 purses, a set of bowls, and a throw blanket.

Of the purses, the Flower Blossom Purse makes me smile. Wouldn’t it be a great way to add a bit of color to a gloomy winter day? Or to use in the spring to encourage the flowers to bloom?

The pattern calls for four balls of Kureyon. While the sample in the book uses a bright happy color, you can always select one of the dark or neutral colorways depending on the season and your wardrobe.

This is just a sampling of the projects in this book. You can preview the rest on our website.

The book has started arriving at local yarn stores across the country. Head down to yours to get your copy and supplies!

Tags: bag, crochet, hats, mitts, Noro, scarves, sweater
3 Comments »

Crocheted Simple Striped Arm Warmers

October 14, 2012 in crochet, Free, Mirasol, Mitts

As I was posting the pictures and pattern for the Simple Striped Arm Warmers I was knitting last week there were a few requests for a crocheted version.

Since I like to be an equal opportunity stitcher when I can be (I did grow up crocheting, after all) I thought I’d oblige.

Make them as long or short as you like.

Sorry the one in the picture is just barely big enough to cover my hand, that is as far as I got before my wrists started hurting. Sadly the repetitive motion of crochet can quickly sideline me. Happily I’m smart enough to listen to my body and stop when it tells me to.

I learned that lesson the hard way and now know that if I push through I won’t be able to crochet OR knit for several days. I hope you remember to take breaks, too!

Since this is a crocheted version of my knit arm warmers I again used Mirasol Tuhu yarn. As with the knit version I suggest you divide the balls in half before you start so you can ensure you have enough yarn for both arms.

Crocheted Simple Striped Arm Warmers Pattern

Size: 7 1/2″ circumference x desired length

Materials: 2 hanks Mirasol Tuhu yarn (50% Baby Llama, 40% Merino Wool, 10% Angora with approx 109 yards per 50g).

I used colors #2003 – Aquamarine and #2007 – Fawn.

Hook: G or size needed to obtain gauge

Gauge: 4 single crochet x 5 rows = 1″ in the round

Abbreviations: Ch-Chain, SC-single crochet, HDC-half-double crochet

NOTE: I suggest you either divide the balls in half before you start crocheting. This will help ensure they come out even and you don’t run out of yarn on your second arm warmer.

NOTE: Project starts at the fingers and progresses toward the cuff.

NOTE: US crochet terms.

Stripe Pattern: 2 rows color A, 2 rows color B, repeat

The Pattern:

Right hand arm warmer

Chain 30 loosely

Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist chain. Place marker for beginning of round

Single crochet in each chain around

Single crochet in each sc around

Keeping stripe pattern correct, continue working in single crochet until 8 rounds have been worked, or desired length from starting chain to thumb.

Make Thumb Hole:

Sc 19, half-double crochet in next sc, ch6 loosely, skip next 6 sc, HDC in next sc, sc to end.

Next round: sc in each stitch (sc, ch, hdc) around.

TIP: Try on the mitt to make sure you like that thumb hole. Make it bigger by adding more chains and skipping more single crochet on the body. In that case you might want to shift it in one direction or the other to keep the seam at the bottom of the hand. The goal of the HDC on either side of the thumb hole is to act as a sort of gusset and give the fabric a little more height. I did NOT work the HDCs and feel the stitches next to the hole are getting strained. But I couldn’t test the theory because my wrist were getting sore. So let me know if it works.

Resume working cuff/arm.

Keeping stripe pattern correct, continue working in sc until piece is desired length.

I was thinking it might be attractive to finish the openings with a crab stitch (reverse single crochet). Or you can work a chain lattice trim on the arm edge. I’m sure you’ll think of something that fits your personality!

Left Arm Warmer

Work as for right reversing shaping.

The thumb hole should be worked after 3 or 4 sc on the target row. Try the mitt on and count stitches to find your ideal placement.

Weave in ends. Wear with flair.

Change the size by adding or subtracting stitches from your foundation chain. Be sure to keep your foundation chain loose or your fingers will be restricted, which won’t be much fun.

Add the pattern to your Ravelry queue here.

Find the knit version of the Simple Striped Arm Warmers here.

Tags: arm warmers, crochet, free pattern
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Simple Striped Arm Warmer

October 11, 2012 in Free, Mirasol, Mitts

The other day I was wondering around Ravelry and came across one of those threads about expensive knitwear in stores.

In this case it was arm warmers that ranged from $45 to $88. (In their defense, some of them were at least merino wool.)

Like most of the people reading the thread I thought, “Pfft! I could make those in colors I like and (probably) for less money.”

Since it was a cold day and I was wearing 3/4 length sleeves, I did.

Is it long enough?

As you can see by my double points sticking up in the bottom of the picture, I’m not quite done yet, but so many of you clamored for the pattern after I posted the first picture on Facebook that I thought I better tell you what I know!

Simple Striped Arm Warmers Pattern

Download a PDF version of the pattern here.

Size: 7 1/2″ circumference x 10″ long (or desired length)

Materials: 2 hanks Mirasol Tuhu yarn (50% Baby Llama, 40% Merino Wool, 10% Angora with approx 109 yards per 50g).

I used colors #2000-Tangerine and #2008-Cream

Needles: US6 DPN or size needed to obtain gauge

Gauge: 5.5 sts x 7 rows = 1″ in stockinette stitch in the round

Abbreviations:

BO-Bind Off, CO-Cast On, K-Knit, P-Purl, St st-Stockinette St, Sts-stitches

NOTE: I suggest you either divide the balls in half before you start knitting OR work the arm warmers two at a time. This will help ensure they come out even and you don’t run out of yarn on your second arm warmer.

NOTE: Project starts at the fingers and progresses toward the cuff.

Stripe Pattern: 2 rows color A, 2 rows color B, repeat

Bring the new yarn under the old yarn to prevent a hole.

Tip: Since the stripes are just two rows tall you don’t have to cut the yarn. You can carry it up the inside of the project. Avoid a gap at the color change by bringing the new color from underneath and then around the old color. You can see in the picture I just worked a white repeat and am switching to an orange repeat. Twisting the yarns together in this manner will also secure the floats from carrying the yarn.

The Pattern:

Right hand arm warmer

Cast On 36 sts

Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist. Place marker to indicate beginning of round.

Work K2, P2 rib for 4 rounds

Change to St st and work 10 more rounds (14 rounds total)

Make Thumb Hole:

Knit 6 sts, bind off next 6 sts, knit to end

Next row: Knit 6 sts, cast on 6 sts using “backward e” method, knit to end.

Keeping stripe pattern correct, continue working even in St st until piece measures 9″ from cast on edge. Work 4 rows of K2, P2 rib.

Bind off all sts. Weave in ends.

Left hand arm warmer

Work as for right, reversing shaping. (ha!)

Thumb Hole: K24, BO 6, K to end. Next round: K24, CO 6 using “backward e” method, K to end.

Knit on to match right arm warmer.

Wear with pride.

Variations

Resizing: Ok, so the first thing you’re thinking is that I must be a small person to make such small arm warmers. Well, I am. But I also didn’t include any ease in the pattern since I like my mitts and arm warmers snug.

Since these arm warmers are plain stockinette stitch they are easy to make larger (or smaller). Before you do so, I suggest you knit a few rounds to see just how the pattern will fit as written. Also, keep in mind that llama yarns have a lot of drape and you can expect the arm warmers to stretch a bit after you wear them a few times.

That said, I suggest you increase (or decrease) stitches in groups of 4 to keep the ribbing correct.

Remember to shift the thumb hole accordingly to keep the seam on the bottom. Stick your hand in the project, see where your thumb lines up, count stitches.

Changing Length:

Stop at the wrist for a hand warmer instead.

My first arm warm is reaching almost to my elbow and I still have quite a bit of yarn to work with. At this point I’m curious to see how far I get. You, however, might not want such expansive arm warmers. Since they are just plain St st the length is even easier to change than the size.

You’ll have noticed I started the arm warmers at the finger end and worked toward the cuff. I like to do this because it’s easier to control the length (and ensure my fingers are covered to the degree I want). I made a pair of mitts once starting at the cuff and felt they ended up a little short.

If you just want hand warmers, stop knitting at your desired length. Work some ribbing and cast off. If you are in gift knitting mode these might be a good option. Judging by how long my arm warmers are you’ll probably get at least two pair of mitts (if not three) out of the 2 hanks of Tuhu.

If you want longer arm warmers, keep in mind you’ll reach a point on your arm when you might want to start increasing stitches. Try to do it gradually so you don’t get a strange flair in your project. I’m at that point now. I think I’ll increase two sts on either side of the central seam, work 2 rows, then increase 2 more (remember, groups of 4 to keep the ribbing correct).

If you want more of your fingers covered, work more rows before the thumb hole.

For you advanced knitters: If you want fingers or half finger, start with a provisional cast on. To conserve yarn, I suggest you work to cover the hand, then do the fingers, then extend the cuff.

Rolled edge:

Skip the ribbing for a rolled edge

In the thread on Ravelry people were laughing at the catalog description of the arm warmers having a “rolled edge detail.” As knitters we know that isn’t a detail, that’s just what stockinette stitch does! We can, of course, leverage that as a feature if we want.

In this case, just skip the four rows of ribbing and start working stockinette stitch right away (keeping your stripes correct, of course). This picture is of my swatch and you can see it’s curling nicely.

I did not want a rolled edge because I know it will drive me nuts when I’m trying to type. Another option would be to do ribbing at the fingers and a rolled edge at the cuff. They are your arm warmers, go wild.

Skip the thumb: These are, technically, really long fingerless mitts. To make pure arm warmers, skip the thumb hole and just knit as long as you like.

Changing colors: This is perhaps, the simplest modification of all. I selected orange and white because it echos the fall leaves. And looks like a creamsicle (yummy!).

Tuhu is available in 18 colors, including 8 new jewel tones for the fall. Use my colors or other colors. Work wider stripes. Work random stripes (some narrow, some wide). If you work wider stripes consider how long your floats will be if you decide to carry the yarn. Or ditch the stripes and work your arm warmers in a solid color.

Remember, you are only limited by your imagination.

A cheering section always helps.

I hope you enjoy this arm warmer pattern. If you make a pair share a picture on our Facebook page. I’d live to see your interpretation.

You can add the pattern to your Ravelry queue here.

Find the Crocheted version here.

Tags: arm warmers, free pattern
4 Comments »

Interweave Knits Holiday Gifts 2012

August 22, 2012 in Debbie Bliss, Mitts

As much as we all love summer you have to admit the fall is pretty awesome because it makes you want to get out your hooks or needles and yarn again.

Soon you’ll be able to wear lots of warm and cuddly hand made stuff again!

Another reason it’s awesome is because the new issues of all our favorite magazines hit the shelves providing eye candy and inspiration.

Nathan Rega of Harper Point Photography

When we received the photos of these adorable baby mittens that are in the Holiday Gifts 2012 issue of Interweave Knits magazine first we swooned, then we agreed we wanted to cast on right then even though it was 90 degrees, humid, and there weren’t any babies in the area.

The pattern is the Imagine Mittens by Cambria Washington. All version use Debbie Bliss Cashmerino Baby yarn.

This 55% Merino Wool, 33% Microfiber Acrylic, 12% Cashmere blend yarn has 14 new colors for the fall, so your Imagine Mittens options are really only limited by your imagination. haha.

Nathan Rega of Harper Point Photography

Of course the versions in the magazine are so adorable you will probably be happily busy with them for a while before you need to branch out on your own.

Look at all the fun details! Your local yarn store probably has a good button collection to dress up your version.

Nathan Rega of Harper Point Photography

Yarn requirements for the various versions:

Picnic Blanket Mittens: #340032 sky and #340100 white, 1 ball each; #340300 black, 1 yd. Alternate version: #340700 ruby , #340100 white, and #340300 black.

Ladybug Mittens: #340006 candy pink and #340002 apple, 1 ball each; #340700 ruby and #340062 gold, 2 yd each. Alternate version: #340204 aquamarine and #340002 apple.

Traffic Mittens: #340040 leaf, #340009 slate, #340300 black, and #340204 aquamarine, 1 ball each; #340062 gold, 1 yd. Alternate version: #340040 leaf, #340300 black, and #340204 aquamarine, 1 ball each; #340009 slate and #340100 white, 1 yd each.

The issue is supposed to hit stores on September 4. Plenty of time to dream up other color combinations before it’s time to cast on.

Tags: children, magazines
2 Comments »

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42nd Street Mitts–Concept

Swatching

Go For It

Top Down Mittens: Thumb

Thumb Pattern

Transferring Stitches

The Length of a Cuff

Top Down Mittens: Thumb Holes & Gusset

Provisional Cast On

Other Applications

Pattern! Thumb hole & Gusset

Cuff: Things are getting tricky

2 At A Time

On The Needles: Top-Down Mittens

The Pattern So Far

Chadwick Owl Arm Warmers

A note about yarn quantities.

Owl Arm Warmers

The Pattern:

Crochet Noro Book

Hats

Scarves

Mitts

Sweaters

Purses and more!

Crocheted Simple Striped Arm Warmers

Crocheted Simple Striped Arm Warmers Pattern

The Pattern:

Simple Striped Arm Warmer

Simple Striped Arm Warmers Pattern

The Pattern:

Variations

Interweave Knits Holiday Gifts 2012

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