Crossing Colors in Intarsia

March 26, 2013 in Cowls, Free, Juniper Moon Farm Yarns, Tips

Intarsia is sometimes referred to as “picture knitting” because it is used to work motifs into your project.

Compared to Fair Isle or stranded knitting, when working intarsia you are created isolated blocks of color.

Public side of the Argyle Cowl.

Perhaps the most recognizable intarsia pattern is the diamond motif of the Argyle pattern. But you can also use this method for creating polka dots, squares, stars, and even animals.

You use a separate ball of yarn for each section of color. So in the Chadwick Argyle Cowl pattern seen above you would have four balls of red, two balls of white, and one ball of black. As you arrive at each section of the motif you drop the current color and pick up the new color.

The potential problem with all this dropping and switching is the potential for little holes at the color change. However, they are easily avoided by crossing the yarns so they twist together. The tension created by the twist pulls the holes closed.

Crossed colors working a red knit stitch. Yarn thrown, stitch not completed.

To work the color cross you pick up the new yarn from the right and underneath the current yarn. Stated another way, when you get to the stitch where the color change happens pull the current yarn to the left, then grab the new yarn and pull it to the left and over the top of the old yarn.

In the picture above I’m about to work a red stitch after working a white stitch. I took the picture after I threw the red yarn around the needle but before I finished the stitch. You can see the red yarn hugging the white yarn.

Since all this might be a little hard to understand in text, I made a little video demonstrating the method. I filmed it while I was working the purl side since it seemed easier to see what is going on.

It probably looks a little awkward, but remember I was working around a camera and trying to use exaggerated gestures so you could see what is happening. LOL!

Inside of the Argyle Cowl. You want those little half-moons.

After all that crossing, the inside of your project should look like this. The little half-moons are your goal and the colors should be consistent on either the top or the bottom in each section.

If it still doesn’t make sense you can probably get a private lesson at your local yarn store where you can see the technique demonstrated in person. You’ll also get to ask questions as you try it out.

Intarsia is my favorite style of color work. I think it’s fun to be able to add pops of color here and here in projects. And argyle socks are fun to knit and wear.

Challenging ourselves with new knitting techniques helps keep our craft interesting and our minds sharp. What new technique will you try out?

If you’re ready to try out intarsia you can download the free pattern for the Chadwick Argyle Cowl on our website. You can add it to your Ravelry queue here.

Tags: argyle, cowls, intarsia, tips
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Chadwick Argyle Cowl

March 5, 2013 in Cowls, Free, Juniper Moon Farm Yarns

Over the holidays Hubby and I went to the Stars on Ice show with his parents.

It’s so exciting to see those world-class athletes gliding so effortlessly across the ice. Of course, I live to see the jumps!

The costumes for the opening sequence were graphic black and white designs with a splash of red here and there–one skater had red hat, another red gloves. As mesmerized as I was by the routine, another part of my brain was trying to figure out how to reinterpret those costumes in knitting.

Stripes seemed too easy (although some of the costumes were striped!).

Then I realized argyle was the way to go. I could use black and white for the main colors and red as the accent diagonal color.

You can wear it standing up if it’s cold out.

The next decision was the yarn, and what better option than the beautiful Juniper Moon Farm Chadwick? As a 60% Merino Wool, 40% Baby Alpaca it both soft and warm.

Susan Gibbs selected colors that would stand alone or be good for mixing and matching in color work projects, so there are a multitude of combinations you can try.

While the costumes during Stars on Ice were crisp and bold black, white, and scarlet, I decided to tone my colors down for what, to my mind, is a more sophisticated look. I used Black Magic, Dawn, and Syrah.

It’s soft enough to scrunch down, too.

I knit my cowl with 5 diamonds, for a finished circumference of 25″. It took just under half of each ball of yarn. I’m fairly certain a second cowl, especially one of just 4 diamonds, would be possible from the remaining yarn.

Or you could make a striped hat. Get creative.

Yeah, argyle!

You can download the pattern for the Chadwick Argyle Cowl here.

You can add the pattern to your Ravelry queue here.

Stay tuned later this week for future posts with tips on knitting intarsia.

Tags: argyle, cowls, free pattern
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Yelcho Scarf

March 4, 2013 in Araucania, crochet, Free, Scarves

Last week a friend asked if I would knit her a scarf.

I had just finished my Loreto cowl and hadn’t settled on my next project yet, so I said sure.

She wanted the colors purple and teal. After rummaging around a bit I gave her a few options and she selected a lovely shade of Araucania Yelcho yarn in color #1807, which includes both colors.

That was lucky because it meant I wouldn’t have to worry about making stripes. I could just happily knit away.

Doesn’t that look squishy?

Yelcho is a 60% Wool, 20% Kid Mohair, 10% Silk, 10% Nylon blend so it is warm, soft, and crunchy all at the same time. There are a lot of fun textures going on with this yarn!

Each hank has 275 yards per 100g so I knew I’d only need one or two to make a good size scarf.

Yelcho Ribbed Scarf “pattern”

The finished scarf is 108″ long and I’m only 5′ tall!

It’s a knit two, purl two scar, so I can hardly call it a pattern, but here goes.

Size: 5″ wide x 108″ long

Materials: Araucania Yelcho yarn, 2 hanks.

Needles: US 9 or size needed to obtain gauge

Gauge: 30 sts = 4″ in K2, P2 rib, relaxed. 21 rows=4″

Pattern:

Cast on 36 sts

Work in Knit 2, Purl 2 rib until you run out of yarn or can’t stand it any more.

Bind off. Weave in ends.

One skein would make a good cowl.

After one hank the scarf was about 50″ long. That was a bit short for a scarf if you want to wrap it, in my opinion, so I added the second hank. Of course, you can always use one hank, sew the ends together, and call it a cowl.

It’s long enough to wear different ways.

I didn’t add fringe because my friend isn’t fringe type. If you want fringe I suggest you cut them before you get started. Then you can happily knit the scarf until you run out of yarn without worrying about leaving enough for the fringe.

Other Project Ideas

Wrap and snood from Jenny Watson Fall 2011 book.

For a more challenging scarf pattern, check out the lace scarf and snood by Jenny Watson in the Fall 2011 Araucania book.

This book also includes a really nice cardigan using Yelcho yarn along with great projects using Budi yarn and Rinihue yarn.

Yelcho also looks great when crocheted.

This stunning crocheted dress pattern is free on our website.

This stunning crocheted dress is a free pattern on our website. A cabled edging and shell stitch bands make this dress a stand out. It is worked flat and seamed, which helps add stability.

You can add the dress to your Ravelry queue here.

It took me just over a week to knit the scarf for my friend. If you start now, you’ll be able to get a lot of wear out of it before the spring!

Tags: scarf
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On and Off the Needles: Indulgence Beanie

March 2, 2013 in Free, Hats, Knitting Fever Inc

Just because a yarn is called “sock yarn” doesn’t mean you have to restrict yourself to knitting socks with it.

Did you already know that or is it a light bulb statement?

So called sock yarn can be used to knit shawls, scarves, hats, gloves and mittens, and even sweaters.

The two things to remember about sock yarn is that it will usually be a fingering weight (so it will fit in your shoes nicely) and it usually has a touch of nylon included for durability. (Think of the friction of rubbing against the back of your heel as you walk.)

Not all sock yarns need to be knit on itty bitty needles at a fine gauge. Our Indulgence 6 Ply yarn, for instance, has a suggested gauge of 21 sts to 4″ (5.25 sts/1″) on needles ranging from a US 3 to US 6. It is a 75% Extrafine Merino Wool, 25% Polyamide blend.

That is considered more of a sport weight gauge and is much more reasonable for projects beyond socks.

Indulgence also comes in some awesome self-patterning colors.

Socks and photo by Wool Becomes Ewe.

These happy lime/blue/purple socks are being knit by Wool Becomes Ewe, a local yarn store in Virginia. (There is a sock pattern on the Indulgence ball band.)

That picture, combined with this one from Metaphor Yarns, a local yarn store in Massachusetts, reminded me that I was hording some Indulgence of my own.

Photo by Metaphor Yarns

Aren’t those colors luscious?

I’ve made myself socks using the color at the top right. And I used the color in the middle to make socks for my brother.

The one in the bottom right is the one that caught my eye this week.

Hello, handsome.

I don’t know about you, but a lot of my younger relatives are suddenly having babies. There are three new babies in the past four months and another one due in April!

It occurred to me that since Indulgence is silky soft AND machine washable it would be great for baby garments.

I settled on the Amity Print Beanie pattern from Ella Rae, which is free on our website (look for the “download pattern” link under the big picture on the left), and got to knitting. I cast on Wednesday evening and finished it up Friday night.

No baby handy, so my hand had to model.

How adorable is this hat?!

The colors came up so nicely and it’s such a clean, simple design that I want to make one for myself.

Considering it didn’t take much yarn at all, there is probably enough left in the ball for me to do that. Each ball is 426 yards, after all. In fact, based on past experience, and my little feet, I’m pretty sure there is enough yarn left for me to make myself a pair of socks, because I just love this color.

I like the gathered effect on the top.

Now, I did make some modifications to the pattern.

First off, the pattern is written to be worked flat and seamed. I don’t have the patience for that so I just followed the stitch count, but worked it in the round. Of course, when you get to the crown shaping you have to change the purls to knits in that case.

Second, I dropped the top knot.

Third, and this is probably a big one, in the fine knitting tradition of “It will fit someone” I didn’t bother trying to get gauge. I used US6 needles and got 6 sts per inch, which is nowhere near the 4.5 sts/inch called for in the pattern. But, for a baby hat, I think it will be just fine.

When you are weaving in your ends remember that because of the rolled brim you should weave the cast on tail onto the “public” side of the work. If you weave it to the “private” side the end might show when the brim rolls up.

With so much yarn still available I’m debating making little socks to match.

Or maybe fingerless mitts for myself!

Tags: baby, hats
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Top Down Mittens: Thumb

January 5, 2013 in Ella Rae, Free, Mitts, Tips, Uncategorized

The top down mittens I’ve been knitting using Ella Rae Lace Merino Worsted yarn are almost done!

I’ve knit both thumbs and just have to finish off the cuff.

Now, I’m going to provide the pattern for the thumb, but you’ll have to remember you’re not locked into my numbers. You have to trust your knitter’s instinct and pick up more stitches to close up the holes in the corners.

The only thing you’ll have to worry about is to have a number divisible by 3 (so 18 or 21 stitches) in order to have the decreases work properly.

Late to the party? You can find the start of the mittens here. And the Thumb Gusset here.

Thumb Pattern

Transfer the stitches for the thumb from the holders to two needles. (16 sts)

Attach the working yarn to the bottom of the thumb and knit across 12 sts.

Pick up one or more on the side of the hand to close the gap.

Knit across 4 sts on top of thumb.

Pick up one or more on side of hand to close gap.

You will not have anywhere from 18 to 22 on your needles. Divide stitches as evenly as possible on three needles. Attach a marker to this row for measuring later.

Knit in the round until thumb measures about 1″ from picked up sts.

If necessary, decrease as many sts as necessary on the next round to get to either 18 or 21 sts. (So if you have 22 sts, K2tog once. If you have 20 sts, K2tog, k half way around, k2tog, k to end)

Knit one round even.

Begin thumb decreases: K2tog at the beginning of each needle. K remaining sts on needle. (3 sts decreased)

K one round even

Alternate decrease round and knit even round until 6 sts remain.

Cut yarn, leaving a generous tail. Draw tail through remaining sts and pull tight.

Finish knitting cuffs. Bind off in rib pattern.

Weave in ends. Go play in the snow.

See what I mean about using your knitter’s instinct for the thumb? It’s good practice in visualizing the end result you want and just making the stitches get there.

One my first thumb I had 19 sts after picking up in the corners. After knitting for an inch, I knit two together at the beginning of the round because I think it’s easier to decrease with even numbers.

On the second thumb I had 18 sts after picking up in the corners, so I didn’t have to worry about decreasing until I got to the top of the thumb. The finished thumbs still match nicely.

Transferring Stitches

Now, an experienced knitter who has used a crochet chain provisional cast on won’t have any trouble transferring the stitches from the chain to the needles in order to knit the thumb.

A knitter who hasn’t used this method before might be puzzled. I had a little trouble getting picture of the process, but these should put you on the correct path.

If you do an internet search for “crochet provisional cast on” you’ll find options for videos and other blog posts about it. However, it might be easier to head down to your local yarn store for help in person. The other blog post pictures I saw did seem much more clear.

First, take a look at the picture up above and compare it to your own knitting. You can see nice, normal looking stitches pierced by the crochet chain. You’ll want to slide your knitting needle under the right hand leg of each stitch.

Really, you’ll just want to get the stitches onto your needle. You can worry about untwisting them later.

Once you’ve inserted your needle you can pull on the crochet chain and it will pop of out the knit stitch.

Some directions will have you just pull out the crochet chain all at once and trust your stitches not to run. I’m too nervous for that, so I take the more fiddly route and slowly pull the chain out as I go along.

You’ll have to decide how brave you are, and how slippery your yarn is, before you select a method.

This might be one of those techniques where you want to set up a practice piece to try it out before you apply it to your project.

The Length of a Cuff

You’ll remember from my last blog post that I was planning to knit the cuffs for at least 2 inches before working the thumb.

That’s just what I did.

The 2″ cuffs seemed rather short to me. Since I had plenty of yarn left I unpicked the bind off, reattached my yarn, and continued knitting the cuffs.

While the ribbing draws in, you might want to consider going down one needle size to make a more snug cuff. You might also want to knit a few more rows of stockinette stitch between the bottom of the thumb gusset and the start of the cuff ribbing.

Try it on and see what you think.

Our Facebook Fan Joyce S. says:

Way back when, I made mittens with a 2″-3″ cuff and a 1″ stocking knit before starting the thumb. Cuff would be long enough to tuck under coat sleeve and the space before the thumb made it fit better

After knitting on the cuff for a while I realized I didn’t know how long I should make it. The mittens are big for me, which is making it hard for me to judge the fit. They actually fit my husband nicely. I used his hand to judge the thumb size and the 2″ cuff was definitely short on him.

These mittens are for a friend in another state, so I can’t have her try them on. And they are sort of a surprise, so I don’t want to ask how long she’d like them.

Since I couldn’t ask my friend, I asked our Facebook fans.

The general range is from 2″ to 6″ with many people saying it depends on the person who will wear it. Many people like the cuff to be long enough to tuck into their coat sleeve.

Jennifer DD says:

Male or female? I’d use the Stephanie Purl McFee rules – use an index finger length or index finger to the first knuckle.

Amanda E gave me a giggle with her suggestion of:

Elbow length,’cuz elbow length mittens sound awesome.

Cali had an interesting guideline:

I do a standard hand width past the bottom of the thumb hole.

At this point, my cuffs are 4″ long and I still have a decent amount of yarn left.

I think I’m going to continue the cuff until I run out of yarn. That way my friend has options. She can wear them long or fold them down for extra warmth.

And if she doesn’t want a really long cuff she can ask one of the knitters near her (and there are plenty!) to shorten it for her. Since I’m ending at the cuff it will be a simple matter for them to unravel a bit and bind off.

What these long cuffs really mean is that my Top Down Mittens are a one skein project. Hooray! You will just need one hank of Ella Rae Lace Merino Worsted to knit your own pair.

This 100% Superwash Merino Wool yarn comes in a mix of 36 semi-solid and variegated colors. Which one would you use?

Tags: free pattern, mitten
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Newborn Baby Hat

December 24, 2012 in Elsebeth Lavold, Free, Hats

A few days ago my friends sent me a picture of their new baby wearing the hat I had knit for their first baby three years ago.

Three years! They’d kept my hat safe for future use.

I was so flattered and excited that I had to knit them another one right away. They are in a New England state so they’ll need winter wear for him. Isn’t it great when our gifts are used and appreciated?

Personally, when I knit or crochet a gift I want to see it used. None of this “It’s too special and will wear out” nonsense for me! If you wear it out I can make you another one.

A little hat for a little head

This little hat took 14 grams of Elsebeth Lavold Favorite Wool yarn. Really, I weighed it. Since Favorite Wool comes in 50 gram balls you’ll be able to make a couple hats, or maybe matching socks or mittens, from one ball.

Newborn Baby Hat

Size: About 14″ circumference. About 3 3/4″ tall

Materials:

Yarn: Elsebeth Lavold Favorite Wool (100% Peruvian Wool), less than one ball

Needles: US8 Double pointed needles or size needed to obtain gauge

Gauge: 4 sts x 4 rows = 1″ in garter stitch in the round.

Abbreviations:

CO-Cast on
Dec-Decrease
K-Knit
K2tog-Knit two stitches together
P-Purl
P2tog-purl two stitches together
St(s)-Stitch(es)

NOTE: This hat is worked in Garter Stitch in the round. You have to alternate knit and purl rounds.

The Pattern:

CO 48 sts.

Join to work in the round being careful not to twist stitches. Place marker for beginning of round. Distribute sts evenly on four needles (12 sts each needle).

Beginning with a knit round, work in garter stitch in the round (knit one round, purl one round) for 16 rounds or about 2″ from cast on edge.

Decrease round: *K2tog, k4. Repeat from * around

Work 4 rounds even in garter stitch

Decrease round: *P2tog, P3. Repeat from * around

Work 3 rounds even in garter stitch.

Decrease round: *P2tog, P2. Repeat from * around

Work 2 rounds even in garter stitch.

Decrease round: *K2tog, K1. Repeat from * around.

Work 1 row even in garter stitch.

Decrease round: K2tog around (8 sts remain)

Leave a reasonable tail (6″ or so) and cut yarn. Use a darning needle to draw tail through remaining sts. Remove knitting needles and pull tail tight to close top.

Weave in ends.

No babies were around to model for me.

Lacking a baby to use a a model, I put the hat on this canister of bread crumbs to try to give you an idea of the size. Almost all of us have breadcrumbs in the house, right? My use of this particular brand of breadcrumbs does not constitute an official endorsement (haha).

Of course babies have round tops.

Here’s a picture of the top. Of course, unlike bread crumbs, babies have round tops, which will be much more flattering to the hat!

I used Favorite Wool color #26-Prussian Blue because my friends have a new baby boy. I like primary and strong colors for babies. I think they are a nice change of pace from the usual pastels used for baby garments.

Just a few of the great colors available.

Favorite Wool is available in 34 colors, including some pastels, so you can be more traditional if you want.

I hope you enjoy making this little hat. If you do make one, share a picture on our Facebook wall. I’d love to see it.

Tags: baby, free pattern, hats
1 Comment »

Chadwick Owl Arm Warmers

December 5, 2012 in Free, Gloves, Juniper Moon Farm Yarns, Mitts

Arm warmers and fingerless mitts are pretty awesome in my book.

So warm and cozy!

I wear fingerless mitts practically year round. In the summer they are good for when the air-conditioning is too efficient and in the winter they are good when you want to stay warm but keep your fingers free.

Of course, you already know all this because of those Simple Striped Arm Warmers I knit recently using Mirasol Tuhu yarn.

What I didn’t mention was that I don’t like knitting fingers. Despite that fact that half fingers will help keep your hands warmer, I find knitting them fiddly and annoying.

Since I don’t think knitting (or crocheting) should be annoying I usually just knit some ribbing on the finger side of the mitt and call it a day.

Contrary to my anti-finger stance, you’ll notice that these Owl Arm Warmers have half fingers. That’s because these aren’t for me.

Owl arm warmers for my aunt

When I was visiting my mom for Thanksgiving she said my aunt had seen an ad for fingerless mitts in a magazine, but they were boring and utilitarian so she didn’t like them. She asked my mom whether I could knit her a pair instead.

My aunt was diagnosed with multiple sclerosis a few years ago and apparently it makes her arms cold sometimes. She doesn’t want to wear sweaters and such all the time and thought arm warmers would do the trick.

I was up to the challenge!

Using a soft, squishy yarn in a lovely color wasn’t enough. I wanted to jazz them up with a simple design. The ubiquitous owl cable fit the bill because my aunt has liked and collected owl figurines long before it became stylish.

Juniper Moon Farm Yarns Chadwick immediately came to mind as a good yarn for this project. This 60% Merino Wool, 40% Baby Alpaca blend yarn is not only as soft as a kitten but nice and warm as well. This smooth yarn has good stitch definition, which would enhance the cable. I decided to use color #6-Mercury. You can see all 12 colors here.

Eyes would make it more owly.

A note about yarn quantities.

I was hoping these arm warmers would be a one skein project, but I fell a few yards short of the goal.

Juniper Moon Farm Yarns Chadwick comes in generous 202 yard balls. If you knit the pattern as written you will use every inch of yarn and probably run out. In fact, I ran out and the left thumb is shorter than the right. Oops. Unfortunately, you’ll just need a wee amount of the second ball to finish up. You can make a matching headband with the second ball. Or make a second, shorter pair. Or shorten this pair. Or ditch the fingers. You’re a clever knitter; you’ll figure something out.

Owl Arm Warmers

Download a PDF version of the pattern here.

Size: To fit 8” hand circumference. 11” arm circumference at the elbow. 8 1/2” from wrist to elbow. 12 ¾” from fingers to cuff.

Materials:
Yarn: Juniper Moon Farm Chadwick (60% Merino Wool, 40% Baby Alpaca), 2 balls. Shown in #6-Mercury.
Needles: US 7 dpns (or size needed to obtain gauge)
Notions: Cable needle, scrap yarn to use as stitch holders

Gauge: 4.5 sts x 7 rows = 1” in st st in the round

Owl Cable
Rounds 1 & 2: P4, K8, P4
Round 3: P4, C4B, C4F, P4
Rounds 4-9: P4, K8, P4
Round 10: P4, C4B, C4F, P4
Rounds 11-15: P4, K8, P4
Round 16: P4, C4B, C4F, P4
Round 17, P4, C2B, K4, C2F, P4

Abbreviations:
CO-Cast on
C4B-slip next 2 sts to a cable needle and hold to back, K2, K2 from cable needle
C4F-slip next 2 sts to a cable needle and hold to front, K2, K2 from cable needle
C2B-slip next 1 st to a cable needle and hold to back, K1, K1 from cable needle
C2F-slip next 1 st to a cable needle and hold to front, K1, K1 from cable needle
Dec-Decrease
DPNs-Double pointed needles
K-Knit
KFB-Knit front and back
K2tog-Knit two stitches together
M1L-Make one left-insert left hand needle from front to back into horizontal bar between last st worked and the next st, K bar through back loop.
M1R-Make one right-insert left needle from back to front into horizontal bar between the last st worked and the next st, K bar through front loop.
P-Purl
PM-Place marker
P2tog-purl two stitches together
SM-Slip marker
SSK-Slip next two stitches individual knitwise to right needle, insert left needle into front of slipped stitches, k2tog
St(s)-Stitch(es)
St st-Stockinette Stitch

The Pattern:

Right arm warmer:
CO 52 sts.
Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist stitches. Place marker to note beginning of the round. Distribute stitches evenly on needles.

Work K2, P2 rib for 6 rounds
Round 7: K2tog, *P2, K2, repeat from * to last 2 sts, P2tog (50 sts)
Round 8: K1, *P2, K2, repeat from * to last st, P1
Rounds 9-13: Continue in rib as established.
Round 14: K1, P2tog, *K2, P2, repeat from * to last 3 sts, K2tog, P1. (48 sts)
Round 15: K1, P1, *K2, P2, repeat from * to last 2 sts, K1, P1

Round 16: change to stockinette stitch (knit all stitches, all row).
Continue in st st until piece measures 5” from cast on edge or desired length. AT THE SAME TIME, dec 2 sts every 7th round 5 times (i.e., Rounds 21 & 28: K1, K2tog, K to last 3 sts, SSK, K1)

Set up round for Owl Cable:
Round 35: K1, K2tog, K11, P16, K11, SSK, K1 (42 sts)
Round 36: K13, P16, K13
Note: when working Owl Cable it might be helpful to distribute work on 3 needles so there are 13 sts each on Needles 1 & 3 and 16 sts on Needle 2. That way the Owl is isolated to Needle 2.

Work Owl Cable over 16 sts on Needle 2. Knit all sts on Needles 1 & 3
Rounds 37 & 38: P4, K8, P4
Round 39: P4, C4B, C4F, P4
Rounds 40-45: P4, K8, P4 (Also, work decrease round as established on round 42 [40 sts])
Round 46: P4, C4B, C4F, P4
Rounds 47-51: P4, K8, P4 (Also, work decrease round as established on round 49 [38 sts])
Round 52: P4, C4B, C4F, P4
Round 53: P4, C2B, K4, C2F, P4

Rounds 54 & 55: K11, P16, K11
Continue in st st until piece measures 8 ½” from CO or desired length.
Work 3 more rows.

Start Thumb gusset:
Round 62: K29, PM, M1R, K2, M1L, PM, K to end
Round 63: K even
Round 64: K to marker, SM, M1R, K to next marker, M1L, SM, K to end
Round 65: K even
Repeat alternating Increase round and Knit even round 3 more times to 12 sts between markers, ending with a K even round.

Next round: K to first marker, place 12 sts between markers on a piece of scrap yarn for later. Remove markers. CO 2 sts using Backward E method. K to end
Work even in st st for 7 rounds or desired length.

Note: I found this “Ask a Knitter” article on Ravelry helpful when deciding where to pick up sts to minimize gaps at the base of the fingers.

Use locking stitch markers to help visualize the finger placement.

Work Fingers:
K 10 sts to get to the side of the hand.
Place all sts on a piece of scrap yarn.
Mark sts for fingers. 8 sts for pinky and 10 sts each for the other 3 fingers. Half the sts will come from the top of the hand and the other half will come from the palm of the hand.

Work Pinkie:
Transfer 4 sts from back of hand and 4 sts from palm to 2 dpns
K3, KFB twice, K3 (10 sts)
Work 5 rounds even.
Bind off all sts. Cut yarn leaving sufficient tail to weave in end.

To help prevent a gap at the base of the fingers, pick up the stitch on the holder.

Work Ring finger:
Transfer next 5 sts from back of hand and next 5 sts from palm to 2 dpns
With palm facing, attach yarn leaving sufficient tail to weave in end. K5, pick up 2 sts at base of Pinkie, K5 (12 sts)
Work 5 rounds even.
Bind off all sts. Cut yarn leaving sufficient tail to weave in end.

Repeat for next two fingers.

Work Thumb:
Transfer 12 held stitches to 2 or 3 dpns
Attach yarn, leaving sufficient tail to weave in end. K12, pick up 2 sts on side of hand (14 sts)
Work 5 rounds even.
Bind off all sts. Cut yarn leaving sufficient tail to weave in end.

Weave in ends. Note: Use the tails from attaching the yarn to close up any gaps at the base of the fingers.

Left arm warmer:
Work as for right, reversing thumb shaping and finger placement.

Left Thumb placement:
K7, PM, M1R, K2, M1L, PM, K to end.

Begin working fingers with the Pointer finger. 10 sts per finger. 8 for the pinkie.

I caught a snowflake!

Tags: arm warmers, cables, free pattern
8 Comments »

Taggle and Zoink (Monsters CAL)

October 24, 2012 in crochet, Ella Rae, Free

Our monster menagerie is complete!

Taggle and Zoink have joined the parade of crocheted amigurumi monsters designed exclusively for us by Stacey at FreshStitches.

Taggle

Taggle is batty for yarn!

Taggle is a 5 inch tall bundle of love who is as batty for yarn as you are!

Let him fly into your heart on wings of black Ella Rae Classic Wool. Or maybe blue. Or green. There are so many Classic Wool colors it might be hard to decide which one to use!

You can download the free pattern for Taggle here. You can add him to your Ravelry queue here.

Zoink

Zoink has his eye on you!

Zoink is 8 inches of focused attention. He’s got his eye on you and doesn’t intend to loose this staring contest.

Along with Sparkie and Bixi, Zoink is one of my favorites.

I have two more monsters to make! I better get cracking!

You can download the free pattern for Zoink here. You can add him to your Ravelry queue here.

CAL Contest

Don’t forget to enter a picture of your finished monster made using one of our yarns for a chance to win the prize at the end of the crochet along. (US residents. Void were prohibited.)

You can upload it to the Ella Rae Facebook page. Or, if you aren’t on Facebook, email it to Ann at “twitter (at) knittingfever (dot) com”. (Replace the words “at” and “dot” with the appropriate symbol, of course.)

Show us the fun adventures your monsters are having now that they have come to live with you. Our favorite one will win. Some really cute pictures have already been submitted!

The deadline to send in your picture is Friday, Nov 2, which gives you just over a week to finish crocheting your monster.

Monsters on Parade

In case you missed any of the Monsters over the month allow me to present them all.

Alfo the monster

Download Alfo

Bixi, the monster, by Stacey Trock

Download Bixi

Deek says, "Life is better with friends."

Download Deek

Lark says, "Who needs toes when you have ruffles?"

Download Lark

Mixtro is mighty in his affection.

Download Mixtro

Otto is always ready to lend a tentacle.

Download Otto

Plarko looks a little surprised.

Download Plarko

Sparkie might be a robot in disguise!

Download Sparkie

All the monsters are crocheted using Ella Rae Classic Wool. This 100% wool yarn comes in 220 yard balls that are ready to use. Which colors will you select?

Tags: crochet, free pattern, Monsters CAL
4 Comments »

Plarko and Sparkie Monsters CAL

October 16, 2012 in crochet, Ella Rae, Free

The next two monsters have joined the party!

After these two cuties there are just two monsters left in our series of 10 free crocheted amigurumi patterns from FreshStitches.

It’s a good thing they crochet up so quickly or it would be hard to keep up with the invasion!

Plarko

Plarko is a 12 inch tall bundle of monster love. (7″ tall when seated. I wish my legs were that long in comparison to my body, but then I guess it would take me longer to knit socks.)

Plarko looks a little surprised.

This little darling is ready to be amazed by your crochet prowess or otherwise lend a sympathetic ear, er, I mean antenna, when hearing about your day.

You can download the free pattern for Plarko here.

Stacey, the design powerhouse at FreshStitches, crocheted her Plarko using Ella Rae Classic Wool color #318-Sky blue, but there are 6 new shades of blue for the fall. Or a ton of other colors you can use.

I love the contrasting color #70-Tango for Plarko’s appendages. If you check out a color wheel blue and orange are considered complimentary colors because they are opposite each other.

These monsters are a good way to experiment with color pairings since they are so quick to make!

Sparkie

Don’t let the other monsters know, but Sparkie is one of my favorites! I’ve been waiting with bated breath for his release so I can get to work.

Sparkie might be a robot in disguise!

You can download the free pattern for Sparkie here.

Is Sparkie and alien or a robot? You decide!

Of course you also get to decide on the colors you use.

My Sparkie will be spunky in red!

I plan to use color #337 – Wineberry for my Sparkie’s body and #333 – Sand for his accessories. I haven’t decided what color to use for his top knot yet. I’ll decide when I get there!

Are you having fun crocheting your amigurumi monsters?

Remember to share a picture of your finished monsters on the Ella Rae Facebook page so we can all admire them.

Tags: crochet, Monsters CAL
3 Comments »

Crocheted Simple Striped Arm Warmers

October 14, 2012 in crochet, Free, Mirasol, Mitts

As I was posting the pictures and pattern for the Simple Striped Arm Warmers I was knitting last week there were a few requests for a crocheted version.

Since I like to be an equal opportunity stitcher when I can be (I did grow up crocheting, after all) I thought I’d oblige.

Make them as long or short as you like.

Sorry the one in the picture is just barely big enough to cover my hand, that is as far as I got before my wrists started hurting. Sadly the repetitive motion of crochet can quickly sideline me. Happily I’m smart enough to listen to my body and stop when it tells me to.

I learned that lesson the hard way and now know that if I push through I won’t be able to crochet OR knit for several days. I hope you remember to take breaks, too!

Since this is a crocheted version of my knit arm warmers I again used Mirasol Tuhu yarn. As with the knit version I suggest you divide the balls in half before you start so you can ensure you have enough yarn for both arms.

Crocheted Simple Striped Arm Warmers Pattern

Size: 7 1/2″ circumference x desired length

Materials: 2 hanks Mirasol Tuhu yarn (50% Baby Llama, 40% Merino Wool, 10% Angora with approx 109 yards per 50g).

I used colors #2003 – Aquamarine and #2007 – Fawn.

Hook: G or size needed to obtain gauge

Gauge: 4 single crochet x 5 rows = 1″ in the round

Abbreviations: Ch-Chain, SC-single crochet, HDC-half-double crochet

NOTE: I suggest you either divide the balls in half before you start crocheting. This will help ensure they come out even and you don’t run out of yarn on your second arm warmer.

NOTE: Project starts at the fingers and progresses toward the cuff.

NOTE: US crochet terms.

Stripe Pattern: 2 rows color A, 2 rows color B, repeat

The Pattern:

Right hand arm warmer

Chain 30 loosely

Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist chain. Place marker for beginning of round

Single crochet in each chain around

Single crochet in each sc around

Keeping stripe pattern correct, continue working in single crochet until 8 rounds have been worked, or desired length from starting chain to thumb.

Make Thumb Hole:

Sc 19, half-double crochet in next sc, ch6 loosely, skip next 6 sc, HDC in next sc, sc to end.

Next round: sc in each stitch (sc, ch, hdc) around.

TIP: Try on the mitt to make sure you like that thumb hole. Make it bigger by adding more chains and skipping more single crochet on the body. In that case you might want to shift it in one direction or the other to keep the seam at the bottom of the hand. The goal of the HDC on either side of the thumb hole is to act as a sort of gusset and give the fabric a little more height. I did NOT work the HDCs and feel the stitches next to the hole are getting strained. But I couldn’t test the theory because my wrist were getting sore. So let me know if it works.

Resume working cuff/arm.

Keeping stripe pattern correct, continue working in sc until piece is desired length.

I was thinking it might be attractive to finish the openings with a crab stitch (reverse single crochet). Or you can work a chain lattice trim on the arm edge. I’m sure you’ll think of something that fits your personality!

Left Arm Warmer

Work as for right reversing shaping.

The thumb hole should be worked after 3 or 4 sc on the target row. Try the mitt on and count stitches to find your ideal placement.

Weave in ends. Wear with flair.

Change the size by adding or subtracting stitches from your foundation chain. Be sure to keep your foundation chain loose or your fingers will be restricted, which won’t be much fun.

Add the pattern to your Ravelry queue here.

Find the knit version of the Simple Striped Arm Warmers here.

Tags: arm warmers, crochet, free pattern
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