Baby Booties and a Book Review

December 28, 2012 in Elsebeth Lavold, Socks

The New Born Baby Hat I knit for my friends earlier in the week took so little yarn that I had more than half the ball of Elsebeth Lavold Favorite Wool I used left over.

So I knit a second hat (my cousin is due to have a baby in early January).

Newborn hat

A little hat for a little head

I still had quite a bit of the yarn left so I thought I’d push my luck and try to make a pair of baby booties as well.

I wasn’t feeling very creative and decided to use an existing pattern where someone else had already done the hard work of designing the booties.

Happily, I remembered the was a small and simple pattern in the back of “Knitting in Plain English” by Maggie Righetti.

Baby booties

Little Frankenstein booties!

The pattern in the book calls for a seed stitch edge to match the sweater and bonnet patterns that are also in the book, but I made a garter stitch edge instead to match my hat.

Aren’t they fun little Frankenstein booties?

They knit up very quickly and don’t take much yarn at all. However, I did use the rest of my ball of yarn and was starting to get nervous on the second booty.

Considering I got two little hats and a pair of booties out of the one ball of Favorite Wool I think I did a pretty good job of using it up!

The three patterns in the book are learning patterns, which means they are simple for an experienced knitter but offer challenges to improve your skills for a beginner or even intermediate knitters.

The booties are good practice for knitting in the round, but not really instructive for learning socks since they don’t have the same construction as regular sock would.

There was only one tricky part in the pattern. When you are done knitting the booty, the pattern says to turn in inside out and work a three needle bind off to close the bottom.

booty done

Turn it inside out, what?

I sat there for a minute looking at what you see here and tried to figure out how I would get my long double pointed needles through that little bitty sole without loosing all my stitches.

I actually started to slide the project toward one end of the needles thinking that would make it easier to swing them through.

Luckily, before I got to far with that effort, my common sense returned and I realized I was approaching the project from the wrong end.

booty flipped

Push the booty, not the needles.

I didn’t have to push the needles through the booty. I had to push the booty through the needles! Sometimes the solution is too simple.

A quick bind off and I was done.

Of course, the three needle bind off creates a ridge on the inside of the booty, but these aren’t really walking socks. If you want to avoid the ridge I don’t see why you can’t Kitchener stitch the bottom shut instead.

Knitting in Plain English

This is a good book to have in your library. You should pick up a copy the next time you’re at your local yarn store.

It’s probably more helpful for a beginner knitter as it provides a lot of basic information, but even as an experienced knitter (I only bought my copy last year) I picked up some tips and useful information.

There were also good reminders about how to do some techniques better and to not get stressed out over your knitting.

As with any book not everyone will find it universally appealing. Personally, I like Righetti’s writing style. She’s been in the business for a while and it was interesting to see her contrast how things were done when she first started compared to how they are done these days.

For instance, she says when she first started out knitters were more likely to make up their own patterns on the fly. Or the staff at the yarn store would design simple sweaters to a customers specifications.

These days we have access to so many patterns that service is no longer necessary. Actually, there are a few specialty stores that will still do custom designs, but I think it’s fairly costly.

Along those lines, I’ve seen information in the Knitting Fever archives about a primitive computer system local yarn stores could purchase that would produce custom patterns. Of course, these days you can purchase a software program that you can use in the comfort of your own home.

Lacking the special software, you can also fall back on “The Knitting Architect” on our website, which walks you through the basics of sweater design. I would also recommend Righetti’s “Sweater Design in Plain English” if customizing sweaters is something you want to pursue.

Whoops! I just wandered far from my topic, didn’t I? Since we’re wandering, which reference books would you recommend?

Baby Booties and hat

Look! A set!

Newborn Baby Hat

December 24, 2012 in Elsebeth Lavold, Free, Hats

A few days ago my friends sent me a picture of their new baby wearing the hat I had knit for their first baby three years ago.

Three years! They’d kept my hat safe for future use.

I was so flattered and excited that I had to knit them another one right away. They are in a New England state so they’ll need winter wear for him. Isn’t it great when our gifts are used and appreciated?

Personally, when I knit or crochet a gift I want to see it used. None of this “It’s too special and will wear out” nonsense for me! If you wear it out I can make you another one.

Newborn hat

A little hat for a little head

This little hat took 14 grams of Elsebeth Lavold Favorite Wool yarn. Really, I weighed it. Since Favorite Wool comes in 50 gram balls you’ll be able to make a couple hats, or maybe matching socks or mittens, from one ball.

Newborn Baby Hat

Size: About 14″ circumference. About 3 3/4″ tall

Materials:

Yarn: Elsebeth Lavold Favorite Wool (100% Peruvian Wool), less than one ball

Needles: US8 Double pointed needles or size needed to obtain gauge

Gauge: 4 sts x 4 rows = 1″ in garter stitch in the round.

 

Abbreviations:

CO-Cast on
Dec-Decrease
K-Knit
K2tog-Knit two stitches together
P-Purl
P2tog-purl two stitches together
St(s)-Stitch(es)

NOTE: This hat is worked in Garter Stitch in the round. You have to alternate knit and purl rounds.

The Pattern:

CO 48 sts.

Join to work in the round being careful not to twist stitches. Place marker for beginning of round. Distribute sts evenly on four needles (12 sts each needle).

Beginning with a knit round, work in garter stitch in the round (knit one round, purl one round) for 16 rounds or about 2″ from cast on edge.

Decrease round: *K2tog, k4. Repeat from * around

Work 4 rounds even in garter stitch

Decrease round: *P2tog, P3. Repeat from * around

Work 3 rounds even in garter stitch.

Decrease round: *P2tog, P2. Repeat from * around

Work 2 rounds even in garter stitch.

Decrease round: *K2tog, K1. Repeat from * around.

Work 1 row even in garter stitch.

Decrease round: K2tog around (8 sts remain)

Leave a reasonable tail (6″ or so) and cut yarn. Use a darning needle to draw tail through remaining sts. Remove knitting needles and pull tail tight to close top.

Weave in ends.

Newborn hat 2

No babies were around to model for me.

Lacking a baby to use a a model, I put the hat on this canister of bread crumbs to try to give you an idea of the size. Almost all of us have breadcrumbs in the house, right? My use of this particular brand of breadcrumbs does not constitute an official endorsement (haha).

Newborn hat 3

Of course babies have round tops.

Here’s a picture of the top. Of course, unlike bread crumbs, babies have round tops, which will be much more flattering to the hat!

I used Favorite Wool color #26-Prussian Blue because my friends have a new baby boy. I like primary and strong colors for babies. I think they are a nice change of pace from the usual pastels used for baby garments.

Favorite Wool Tower

Just a few of the great colors available.

Favorite Wool is available in 34 colors, including some pastels, so you can be more traditional if you want.

I hope you enjoy making this little hat. If you do make one, share a picture on our Facebook wall. I’d love to see it.

12/12/12 Scarf Curling

December 20, 2012 in Juniper Moon Farm Yarns, Scarves, Tips, Uncategorized

When I thought up the 12/12/12 scarf in the middle of the night my idea was to capture the date in yarn.

I wasn’t alert enough to consider that 12 sts in stockinette stitch on either side would curl right up.

This issue became rapidly apparent to me when I finally started knitting the scarf that evening.

Stockinette Stitch curls

Stockinette Stitch sides curl right up

Of course, I had to follow through with the pattern as I’d presented it so you could see how it would turn out.

Curling stockinette stitch is something with which all knitters struggle. Either you are a new knitter wondering why it happens or you are an experienced knitter trying to prevent it.

In her book “The Principles of Knitting”, June Hemmons Hiatt explains the curling happens because of the shape of the stitches. She points out that the stitches are pulled tight at the bottom by the row below and flair out at the top. This creates tension in the fabric and causes the curl.

Combat the Curl!

Now that we know why the curl happens, what can we do to manage it?

First you have to decide whether it’s really an issue for your project.

Part of me wonders whether it really matters that a scarf is curling since it’s just going to get folded and bunched up anyway. But I do want options for how I wear it and don’t want my hard work to be hidden.

If this was part of a sweater the curling wouldn’t matter since the pieces would be stabilized when they are sewn together. In the case of a sweater, the curl only matters when you are trying to flatten the pieces out for seaming.

When I posted a picture of the curled up scarf on our Facebook page many people jumped in with suggestions about how to fix it.

Block It

You’ll want to take into account the washing instructions for the yarn and the durability of the project when deciding on a method.

For this scarf using Juniper Moon Farm Chadwick yarn I could soak it in cold water, gently remove the excess water, and pin it in place.

I could also use a spray bottle to mist the scarf before pinning it in place instead of soaking it.

Steaming it with an iron might work as well.

The problem with blocking is that it wears off. Especially on a scarf, which gets bunched up when you wear it.

I would need something more permanent.

Work a Slip Stitch Edge

This is just how it sounds. You slip the first stitch of the row instead of working it.

You slip it opposite of how the stitch is presenting. So if you are looking at a knit stitch you would slip it purlwise. If you’re looking at a purl stitch slip it knitwise.

This also makes a nice, neat edge.

Honestly, I didn’t think that would work in this case because there was such a wide expanse of stockinette to contend with. I didn’t even try it. but you might want to give it a whirl for educational purposes so you better understand the method and how it behaves.

Work an Edging

This was the winning idea.

Of course, by working an edging I was getting away from the 12/12/12 theme, but I decided an un-curled scarf was more important than the theme!

Cable & Rib sides

Ribbing helps a bit.

The first edging I tried was a 4×4 ribbing.

In long hand that translates to:

p4, k4, p4, k12, p4, k4, p4

K4, p4, k4, p12, k4, p4, k4

Repeat for 12 rows total.

P4, k4, p4, C12B, p4, k4, p4

etc.

You can see that after several rows of that I got bored and started adding cables to the K4 column on either side of the central cable.

The small cable on the right is crossed to the back while the small cable on the left is crossed to the front.

I started crossing them at the same time I crossed the central cable to make it easy to remember. For a different look you can cross the small cables at a different time than the central cable. For instance, if you were starting the scarf from the beginning, you can cross the small cables for the first time on the 6th row and then again 12 rows later on the 18th row, but still cross the big, central cable every 12th row.

Or cross the small cables more or less frequently. But you get the idea that there are many options.

As you can see in the picture the outside edges are still curling in a bit. I think in this case a slip stitch edge would help since it’s only fighting against 4 sts.

Seed stitch sides

Seed stitch flattens it out

The next edging I tried was seed stitch.

As you know the first row of seed stitch is a K1, P1 rib across. Then on the second row you purl the knits and knit the purls.

I maintained a two purl stitch buffer on either side of the central cable.

The seed stitch flattens the scarf right out. Like a pancake!

That’s because there aren’t smooth columns of stitches to pull against each other and cause the curl.

This is actually a pretty classic scarf pattern and you’ll find many examples of it at your local yarn store using different yarns.

The only problem with it is that all that switching back and forth between knits and purls can slow you down.

Full scarf

You can see it flattening out with the different side options.

Here is a picture of the full scarf. You can really see how the different sections are behaving. It’s interesting to see the scarf getting flatter as I progress through the different edging options.

Another edging that was suggested was garter stitch. You would knit the first and last 3 or 4 sts on each row every row.

You can combine the garter stitch edge with the rib and cable edging by working garter stitch over the first and last few stitches instead of purling them.

I suggest you use stitch markers to box off your garter stitch section so you don’t accidentally work too many stitches.

Something to keep in mind is that garter stitch has a different row gauge then stockinette stitch and might pull against the rest of the knitting if you make your garter stitch section to wide.

You’ll want to knit a generous swatch to test your options.

Personally I haven’t decided which edging to use, but I’m leaning toward the rib and cable option.

12/12/12 Scarf

December 12, 2012 in Juniper Moon Farm Yarns, Scarves

The date today is December 12, 2012, which in shorthand is 12/12/12.

You know this, of course, because you couldn’t NOT know since everybody has been making a fuss over it in the days leading up to it.

There must be some numerological significance. Or maybe they just think it looks nice since it’s symmetrical.

Chadwick Swimming Pool

Chadwick has 202 yards per ball.

In any event, as I was trying to fall to sleep last night one thing that crossed my mind was how to celebrate the fun date through yarn.

I had been thinking you could cast on 12 sts and just knit away. But that would make an awfully skinny scarf and might not be much fun.

Then I got a brainwave and at 1 am on 12/12/12 posted this on our Facebook wall.

12/12/12, eh?
You could CO 36
P12, K12, P12 for 12 rows
P12, C12B, P12
Etc

Which is just another reminder that I shouldn’t post things on our wall in the wee hours of the night.

Because, really, I must have been channeling Elizabeth Zimmermann when I wrote that. Talk about “pithy directions”!

As I drifted off to sleep it occurred to me that all the beginning knitters would be confused.

And I was correct. It was the C12B that tripped people up. Happily, experienced knitters (and pattern readers) jumped in with explanations while I was eating breakfast.

Another big oversight was that I don’t specify you should work in ribbing for those first 12 rows.

What I should have written was:

CO 36

P12, K12, P12

K12, P12, K12

For 12 rows total

P12, C12B, P12

Repeat until you are sick of it or run out of yarn.

BO

Now, if you’ve knit cables before the C12B didn’t phase you at all. If you haven’t, it was mysterious knitting code you haven’t encountered before.

The important thing to remember when looking at a cable abbreviation is to cut the number in half. In this case you’ll be working with 6 sts at a time.

Hold to back

Just reach across to the left needle and knit.

Work your first 12 purl sts. Then when you reach the knit section stop, slip the next 6 sts purlwise onto a cable needle (without working them) and then push it out of your way to the back of the project, knit the next 6 sts on the left hand needle, then knit the 6 sts that are on the cable needle.

You’ll want to slip the sts purlwise (i.e., going in from back to front as though you were working a purl stitch) because if you slip them knitwise they’ll get twisted and be hard to knit when you came back to them.

knit from cable needle

Then knit the stitches you skipped.

When you’re ready to work the sts you skipped you have a few choices depending on your project and what is comfortable for you. In this case I was using a double pointed needle as my cable needle so it was easy to knit the stitches directly from the dpn.

When I’m using a cable needle I sometimes slip the sts back onto the left hand needle before working them. It depending on the yarn and what size the cable needle is compared to my regular needle.

Some daring people don’t even use a third needle when they knit cables! It’s called cabling without a cable needle. They swear it is easier and faster, but I just don’t have the confidence that I won’t start dropping stitches. I imagine someone at your local yarn store can give you a lesson. Or a friend in your knitting group.

After working the cable you’re resume your ribbing sequence.

The fun thing about this scarf idea is that it should work with just about any yarn. The size of your scarf will depend on what yarn and needle size you select. Chunky yarn will result in a big scarf. Fingering weight yarn will result in a smaller scarf.

It’s also a good example of just plunging in and knitting. The next time you have some pretty yarn that you really want to use but don’t have a pattern you can just make up a scarf!

What’s the worst that can happen? You have to rip back and start over?

In my case I decided to use Juniper Moon Farm Chadwick yarn in color #7-Swimming Pool.

(The first picture at the top of the post where it’s on the windowsill is probably most accurate for color. The cabling pictures the flash went off. The scarf picture below just looks washed out.)

Chadwick comes in 202 yard balls, which should get me a good sized made up scarf. And if it winds up short I’ll sew the cast on to the bind off and call it a cowl!

A rule of thumb is that to make a decent sized scarf (6″ x 52″ I think) using worsted weight yarn you’ll want around 300 yards. Then go up or down in yardage from there depending on how wide or long you intend to make it.

Of more concern at the moment than the possible length is the massive amount of curling on the sides.

Stockinette stitch curls. It’s just the nature of the beast. If I do make a cowl that will help control the curling at the end, but it won’t help will the curling in the rest of the scarf.

Ways to control it would be to work smaller chunks of ribbing (k6,p6 perhaps? You want to have purls right next to the cable so it stands out from the fabric). Or a flat stitch like seed stitch (P1, k1 across. The knit the purls and purl the knits). Garter stitch sides is another option.

Or you could be really sassy and work cabled over the first or last 12 sts occasionally.

I might have to abandon the 12/12/12 idea in favor of ribbing. It was a fun idea, but I want to like the scarf when I’m finished!

Did you jump in and start knitting a scarf based on my 1 am idea? Share a picture! I’d love to see how you interpreted my crazy directions.

Final Himalayan Hiking Hat

December 7, 2012 in Hats, Louisa Harding

Louisa Harding has released the seventh and final hat in her Himalayan Hiking Hat series.

Sikles

Photo credit: Louisa Harding

You’ll remember that Louisa designed these hats to raise money for Macmillan Cancer Support, which provided assistance when her husband was undergoing treatment.

As part of her fundraising effort, last month Louisa did an 11 day hiking trip in Nepal.

The final hat, Silkes, was designed and knit while she was on the hike.

Talk about your travel knitting! Usually I take a pair of socks for on the plane.

Louisa’s goal was to raise £5,000 and she is excited to announce she has raised £7,500 to date. The group she hiked with raised a combined £180,000. Wow!

She thanks you for all your support!

The Silkes hat is knit using 2 hanks of Grace Hand Dyed. This beautiful 50% Merino Wool, 50% Silk yarn has 6 new colors this season.

Louisa knit her hat in four days, so there is probably time for you to whip one out for gift giving.

A fun thing about this final pattern is that it includes pictures and stories from the hike.

Himalayan hats Nepal_2012-3

All the hats. With hikers Sophie, Di, Wendy, Jess, Estelle, Amy and Monya

Louisa’s fundraising pages are still active, so you can still contribute to her efforts.

If you would like to donate for this hat pattern you can at http://www.justgiving.com/Louisa-Harding-Jessup

The whole ‘Himalayan Hiking Hat’ pattern collection is available to download at http://www.louisaharding.co.uk/macmillan.

Chadwick Owl Arm Warmers

December 5, 2012 in Free, Gloves, Juniper Moon Farm Yarns, Mitts

Arm warmers and fingerless mitts are pretty awesome in my book.

right owl mitt

So warm and cozy!

I wear fingerless mitts practically year round. In the summer they are good for when the air-conditioning is too efficient and in the winter they are good when you want to stay warm but keep your fingers free.

Of course, you already know all this because of those Simple Striped Arm Warmers I knit recently using Mirasol Tuhu yarn.

What I didn’t mention was that I don’t like knitting fingers. Despite that fact that half fingers will help keep your hands warmer, I find knitting them fiddly and annoying.

Since I don’t think knitting (or crocheting) should be annoying I usually just knit some ribbing on the finger side of the mitt and call it a day.

Contrary to my anti-finger stance, you’ll notice that these Owl Arm Warmers have half fingers. That’s because these aren’t for me.

owl mitts finished marked

Owl arm warmers for my aunt

When I was visiting my mom for Thanksgiving she said my aunt had seen an ad for fingerless mitts in a magazine, but they were boring and utilitarian so she didn’t like them. She asked my mom whether I could knit her a pair instead.

My aunt was diagnosed with multiple sclerosis a few years ago and apparently it makes her arms cold sometimes. She doesn’t want to wear sweaters and such all the time and thought arm warmers would do the trick.

I was up to the challenge!

Using a soft, squishy yarn in a lovely color wasn’t enough. I wanted to jazz them up with a simple design. The ubiquitous owl cable fit the bill because my aunt has liked and collected owl figurines long before it became stylish.

Juniper Moon Farm Yarns Chadwick immediately came to mind as a good yarn for this project. This 60% Merino Wool, 40% Baby Alpaca blend yarn is not only as soft as a kitten but nice and warm as well. This smooth yarn has good stitch definition, which would enhance the cable. I decided to use color #6-Mercury. You can see all 12 colors here.

owl close

Eyes would make it more owly.

A note about yarn quantities.

I was hoping these arm warmers would be a one skein project, but I fell a few yards short of the goal.

Juniper Moon Farm Yarns Chadwick comes in generous 202 yard balls. If you knit the pattern as written you will use every inch of yarn and probably run out. In fact, I ran out and the left thumb is shorter than the right. Oops. Unfortunately, you’ll just need a wee amount of the second ball to finish up. You can make a matching headband with the second ball. Or make a second, shorter pair. Or shorten this pair. Or ditch the fingers. You’re a clever knitter; you’ll figure something out.

Owl Arm Warmers

Download a PDF version of the pattern here.

Size: To fit 8” hand circumference. 11” arm circumference at the elbow. 8 1/2” from wrist to elbow. 12 ¾” from fingers to cuff.

Materials:
Yarn: Juniper Moon Farm Chadwick (60% Merino Wool, 40% Baby Alpaca), 2 balls. Shown in #6-Mercury.
Needles: US 7 dpns (or size needed to obtain gauge)
Notions: Cable needle, scrap yarn to use as stitch holders

Gauge: 4.5 sts x 7 rows = 1” in st st in the round

Owl Cable
Rounds 1 & 2: P4, K8, P4
Round 3: P4, C4B, C4F, P4
Rounds 4-9: P4, K8, P4
Round 10: P4, C4B, C4F, P4
Rounds 11-15: P4, K8, P4
Round 16: P4, C4B, C4F, P4
Round 17, P4, C2B, K4, C2F, P4

Abbreviations:
CO-Cast on
C4B-slip next 2 sts to a cable needle and hold to back, K2, K2 from cable needle
C4F-slip next 2 sts to a cable needle and hold to front, K2, K2 from cable needle
C2B-slip next 1 st to a cable needle and hold to back, K1, K1 from cable needle
C2F-slip next 1 st to a cable needle and hold to front, K1, K1 from cable needle
Dec-Decrease
DPNs-Double pointed needles
K-Knit
KFB-Knit front and back
K2tog-Knit two stitches together
M1L-Make one left-insert left hand needle from front to back into horizontal bar between last st worked and the next st, K bar through back loop.
M1R-Make one right-insert left needle from back to front into horizontal bar between the last st worked and the next st, K bar through front loop.
P-Purl
PM-Place marker
P2tog-purl two stitches together
SM-Slip marker
SSK-Slip next two stitches individual knitwise to right needle, insert left needle into front of slipped stitches, k2tog
St(s)-Stitch(es)
St st-Stockinette Stitch

The Pattern:

Right arm warmer:
CO 52 sts.
Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist stitches. Place marker to note beginning of the round. Distribute stitches evenly on needles.

Work K2, P2 rib for 6 rounds
Round 7: K2tog, *P2, K2, repeat from * to last 2 sts, P2tog (50 sts)
Round 8: K1, *P2, K2, repeat from * to last st, P1
Rounds 9-13: Continue in rib as established.
Round 14: K1, P2tog, *K2, P2, repeat from * to last 3 sts, K2tog, P1. (48 sts)
Round 15: K1, P1, *K2, P2, repeat from * to last 2 sts, K1, P1

Round 16: change to stockinette stitch (knit all stitches, all row).
Continue in st st until piece measures 5” from cast on edge or desired length. AT THE SAME TIME, dec 2 sts every 7th round 5 times (i.e., Rounds 21 & 28: K1, K2tog, K to last 3 sts, SSK, K1)

Set up round for Owl Cable:
Round 35: K1, K2tog, K11, P16, K11, SSK, K1 (42 sts)
Round 36: K13, P16, K13
Note: when working Owl Cable it might be helpful to distribute work on 3 needles so there are 13 sts each on Needles 1 & 3 and 16 sts on Needle 2. That way the Owl is isolated to Needle 2.

Work Owl Cable over 16 sts on Needle 2. Knit all sts on Needles 1 & 3
Rounds 37 & 38: P4, K8, P4
Round 39: P4, C4B, C4F, P4
Rounds 40-45: P4, K8, P4 (Also, work decrease round as established on round 42 [40 sts])
Round 46: P4, C4B, C4F, P4
Rounds 47-51: P4, K8, P4 (Also, work decrease round as established on round 49 [38 sts])
Round 52: P4, C4B, C4F, P4
Round 53: P4, C2B, K4, C2F, P4

Rounds 54 & 55: K11, P16, K11
Continue in st st until piece measures 8 ½” from CO or desired length.
Work 3 more rows.

Start Thumb gusset:
Round 62: K29, PM, M1R, K2, M1L, PM, K to end
Round 63: K even
Round 64: K to marker, SM, M1R, K to next marker, M1L, SM, K to end
Round 65: K even
Repeat alternating Increase round and Knit even round 3 more times to 12 sts between markers, ending with a K even round.

Next round: K to first marker, place 12 sts between markers on a piece of scrap yarn for later. Remove markers. CO 2 sts using Backward E method. K to end
Work even in st st for 7 rounds or desired length.

Note: I found this “Ask a Knitter” article on Ravelry helpful when deciding where to pick up sts to minimize gaps at the base of the fingers.

owl mitt fingers

Use locking stitch markers to help visualize the finger placement.

Work Fingers:
K 10 sts to get to the side of the hand.
Place all sts on a piece of scrap yarn.
Mark sts for fingers. 8 sts for pinky and 10 sts each for the other 3 fingers. Half the sts will come from the top of the hand and the other half will come from the palm of the hand.

Work Pinkie:
Transfer 4 sts from back of hand and 4 sts from palm to 2 dpns
K3, KFB twice, K3 (10 sts)
Work 5 rounds even.
Bind off all sts. Cut yarn leaving sufficient tail to weave in end.

owl mitt finger arrow

To help prevent a gap at the base of the fingers, pick up the stitch on the holder.

Work Ring finger:
Transfer next 5 sts from back of hand and next 5 sts from palm to 2 dpns
With palm facing, attach yarn leaving sufficient tail to weave in end. K5, pick up 2 sts at base of Pinkie, K5 (12 sts)
Work 5 rounds even.
Bind off all sts. Cut yarn leaving sufficient tail to weave in end.

Repeat for next two fingers.

Work Thumb:
Transfer 12 held stitches to 2 or 3 dpns
Attach yarn, leaving sufficient tail to weave in end. K12, pick up 2 sts on side of hand (14 sts)
Work 5 rounds even.
Bind off all sts. Cut yarn leaving sufficient tail to weave in end.

Weave in ends. Note: Use the tails from attaching the yarn to close up any gaps at the base of the fingers.

Left arm warmer:
Work as for right, reversing thumb shaping and finger placement.

Left Thumb placement:
K7, PM, M1R, K2, M1L, PM, K to end.

Begin working fingers with the Pointer finger. 10 sts per finger. 8 for the pinkie.

Owl hand

I caught a snowflake!

Marvelous Mohair

November 2, 2012 in Debbie Bliss, Louisa Harding, Queensland Collection, shawl, Sweaters

Mohair yarn comes from the fiber of angora goats. (Not to be confused with angora yarn, which comes from angora rabbits.)

Some knitters and crocheters shy away from mohair because it’s hairy appearance makes them think it will be itchy.

I want to encourage you to not be afraid! Mohair, especially kid mohair, can be very soft and cuddly.

If I’m not sure about a yarn I hold it against the inside of my elbow or against my neck to see how I’ll react. The skin in those areas is fairly sensitive so I know if I’m ok there I’ll be able to make a sweater.

Mohair is on my mind because Wild Purls, a yarn store in Montana, keeps posting pictures of their pretty display of Debbie Bliss Angel yarn on their Facebook page.

Wild Purls Mohair Tower

Debbie Bliss Angel display at Wild Purls

Isn’t that just beautiful? It’s like a calorie free layer cake!

You can see they have both the original Angel yarn and the Angel print yarn there around the bottom layer.

What could you do with all that pretty 76% Super Kid Mohair, 24% Silk blend yarn? Well, let me give you some ideas.

Debbie Bliss Angel

Lacy Mittens

These pretty mittens are in the Angel book.

These pretty mittens from the Angel book take just one ball of Angel yarn.

Small projects like these allow us to indulge in luxurious yarn. The three yarns in the Angel family (Angel, Angel Print, and Party Angel) come in 220 yard balls, so it’s easy to make a one skein project.

The Angel book also has sweaters and shawls.

There are also projects using Angel yarn in the last few issues of Debbie Bliss magazine.

Striped Stole

The Striped Stole uses Angel and Bella yarns

This Striped Stole is from the Spring/Summer 2012 issue and uses both Angel and Bella yarn.

Queensland Collection

Caracara yarn from Queensland Collection is a 50% Acrylic, 30% Nylon. 20% Kid Mohair blend. It is more affordable than the Angel yarn, but still soft and fluffy.

You might remember that I made a Scaruffle using this yarn in the spring.

Caracara Shawl

Make it with or without the rosettes.

There are 10 new colors of Caracara this season. To go along with them we’ve release two free patterns using this yarn.

The free pattern for this simple ribbed shawl uses six balls of Caracara.

If a shawl is too much of a time commitment right now, there is also a free scarf pattern that uses two balls, but still has the pretty rosettes on the ends.

Luxury Mohair

Another yarn to tempt you is our Luxury Mohair, which is a 75% Kid Mohair, 25% Silk blend. It is available in eight colors and has a generous 273 yards per hank.

Luxury Mohair

The edging on this shawl is amazing.

This beautiful shawl is in the Luxury Collection book and uses six balls of Luxury Mohair.

Isn’t the edging just stunning?

Louisa Harding Simonetta

While we’re on the topic of stunning, let’s not forget Simonetta yarn from Louisa Harding.

Warbler

Warbler is from the new Sorella book.

There are eight new colors of this 60% Nylon, 26% Kid Mohair, 14% Metallic Polyester blend that has 264 yards per ball.

You can probably still find copies of the Simonetta book at your local yarn store.

The new Sorella book has patterns that use Simonetta and a variety of Louisa’s other yarns.

The Warbler sweater shown here uses Simonetta and Grace Wool & Silk in coordinating colors. Think of the possibilities in color combinations!

Araucania Yelcho

The final yarn I’ll highlight is Yelcho from Araucania.

There are three new colors of this 60% Wool, 20% Kid Mohair, 10% Silk, 10% Nylon blend. It is a bit thicker than some of the other yarns I’ve mentioned, but still has 275 yards per hank.

Yelcho dress

This cozy dress is crocheted.

This fabulous crocheted dress is a free pattern on our website.

It is worked flat from the bottom up and seamed. An experienced crocheter who doesn’t want to commit to an entire dress could probably figure out where to start the pattern to make a pullover or tunic length garment instead.

This dress has a fabulous cabled edging on the hem, cuffs, and collar.

Go See For Yourself

I hope I’ve given you an idea of the range of projects you can make using mohair yarns.

This post just scratches the surface of the mohair blend yarns we have available. You can see more yarns and get project ideas on our website.

You should head down to your local yarn store so you can pet some of these yarns in person and get a better idea for how soft they are.

Where do you fall on the mohair spectrum? Do you love it or shy away?

Crochet Noro Book

October 31, 2012 in bag, crochet, Hats, Mitts, Noro, Scarves, Sweaters

Noro has always been good about including a mix of both knitting and crochet in their pattern books.

You can see examples in the new Noro Passion book by Jane Ellison, in the Volume #31 book, and in the premier issue of Noro Magazine.

Now, after a few hard cover books dedicated to knitting patterns, there is an entire book of crochet patterns!

Crochet Noro book cover

The Shades of Blue Shawl graces the cover

Crochet Noro brings together many of today’s favorite crochet designers and one of the world’s best-loved yarns to create to create a collection of incomparable beauty and originality. From exquisite shawls to stylish cardigans to quick-to-crochet accessories to fabulous bags and totes, this stylish book contains 30 gorgeous projects to entice every crocheter.

Eisaku Noro has been creating his world-renowned yarns in Japan’s Aichi province for more than forty years. Spun from the finest natural materials with great respect for enviromental concerns, these spectacular yarns are dyed exclusively by hand in a dazzling array of colors. The patterns in this artful collection employ several popular Noro yarns, including Silk Garden, Silk Garden Lite, Silk Garden Sock, Taiyo, Taiyo Sock, Kureyon and Shiraito.

These exciting projects are as much fun to stitch as they are to wear. If you aren’t yet hooked on Noro, you will be.

With so many awesome patterns from which to choose, it’s hard to select favorites.

Fortunately, I find that I crochet faster than I knit, which means I could work through the book at a good pace.

Since many of the projects are accessories that require just one or two balls of yarn there is a lot of crochet gift potential in this book as well.

Here are a few patterns that caught my eye.

Hats

Noro Crochet Swirly Tam

Swirly Tam in Silk Garden Sock

This Swirly Tam is very attractive. I like how the ridges add visual interest.

It takes just one ball of Silk Garden Sock. So if you love that yarn, but don’t like making socks, this could be the pattern you’ve been waiting for.

Noro Crochet Engineer Cap

Engineer Cap in Kureyon

Add a little bit of rebel to your wardrobe with the Engineer Cap. It also gives you a chance to use some of the great buttons you’ve been collecting.

This hat takes two balls of Kureyon. With 8 new colorways for the fall no two hats will be the same.

There are two other hats in the book, as well.

Scarves

Noro Crochet Strawberry Lace Scarf

Strawberry Lace Scarf in Shiraito

There are several scarf, cowl, and shawl patterns in the book. (See, good gift ideas abound!)

I think my favorite is the Strawberry Lace Scarf. I like the large size of the motifs, which has always been one of my favorite crochet designs.

There is no doubt this scarf is unique!

Crocheted using two hanks of Shiraito, a 45% Cashmere, 45% Angora, 10% Wool blend, this scarf is destined to become a favorite because the yarn is so soft and luxurious.

Mitts

There are two pairs of mitts in the book. The elegant and textured Shell Stitch Wristers and the fun Bobbled Mitts below.

 

Noro Crochet Bobbled Mitts

Bobbled Mitts in Silk Garden Lite

The Bobbled Mitts are crocheted using two hanks of Silk Garden Lite.

Maybe it’s because we’re still getting rain and clouds from Hurricane Sandy, but the bright, happy colors used in the sample pair make me smile.

Sweaters

Noro Crochet Cap Sleeve Cardigan

Cap Sleeve Cardigan in Taiyo Sock Yarn

Just because I’ve highlighted small projects don’t think this book is all accessories. There are several sweaters as well and even a skirt.

I like the circular design of the Cap Sleeve Cardigan. It’s very visually appealing.

Crocheted using 3 to 4 balls of Taiyo Sock Yarn, a 50% Cotton, 17% Wool, 17% Nylon, 16% Silk blend, this cardigan will be a year round staple in your wardrobe.

It’s just the right size for chasing a chill in doors or wearing over a sun dress outside.

Purses and more!

Noro Crochet Flower Blossom Purse

Flower Blossom Purse in Kureyon

In addition to the projects you can wear, there are 3 purses, a set of bowls, and a throw blanket.

Of the purses, the Flower Blossom Purse makes me smile. Wouldn’t it be a great way to add a bit of color to a gloomy winter day? Or to use in the spring to encourage the flowers to bloom?

The pattern calls for four balls of Kureyon. While the sample in the book uses a bright happy color, you can always select one of the dark or neutral colorways depending on the season and your wardrobe.

This is just a sampling of the projects in this book. You can preview the rest on our website.

The book has started arriving at local yarn stores across the country. Head down to yours to get your copy and supplies!

Avoiding Jogs

October 26, 2012 in Gloves, Mirasol, Tips

And I’m not talking about the exercise. Not that you’d catch me doing anything that strenuous anyway. I can walk and knit, but I can’t jog and knit.

No, I’m talking about avoiding the shift in color that happens when you work stripes in the round. You know the one I’m talking about, at the end of the round when you switch from one color to the next.

It happens because you are actually working a spiral and the rows are different heights.

jogless jog

Lift the stich of the previous color on the second row of the new color.

It bothers some people, but not others. On some projects it might not matter as much. For instance if you are working a sweater and the color change is up the side you might ignore it because you’re arm will cover it.

On the Simple Striped Arm Warmers I knit using Mirasol Tuhu yarn the jog was apparent because I accidentally worked two right hand mitts so the seam is on the top. (By the time I realized I didn’t want to rip back to adjust it.)

To smooth the color transition you’ll actually work the magic on the second row of the new color.

Work the first row of the new color as you normally would.

On the second row of the new color reach down and grab the right-hand leg of the last stitch of the old color. (The stitch where the colors change.)

Work it together with first stitch of the row.

This creates an elongated stitch. It’s really an optical illusion that makes the stripes appear even.

Bind Off Jog

Another jog to worry about when working in the round is on the bind-off.

ugly bind off

Eeew, who wants that?

Doesn’t that look loose and sloppy?

As you bind off you add just a little bit of height to the project causing the last bound off stitch to be just a little higher than the first.

You can work some magic with your darning needle to tighten things up. This is one of those techniques that takes longer to explain in writing than it does to execute.

Usually when I bind off I pull the tail through the last stitch and pull in tight. In this case, after all stitches are bound off pull the last stitch open so you have a good length of yarn and clip it in half.

Pull the working yarn free and turn your attention to the length of yarn attached to the project.

under stitch

Go under both bars of the first bound-off stitch

Thread your darning needle and pass it under the top two bars of the first stitch you bound off. (Or the first stitch that looks nice.)

Into last st

Go into the center of the last bound off stitch

Pull the yarn through, then go into the center of the last stitch you bound off. This should be the same stitch your yarn is coming out of. Pull the yarn tight and weave in the end.

Do you see what you did? You’re following the path of the knitting. You basically created a new stitch.

Clean edge

Now that's more like it.

You’ll end up with a neat, clean edge.

This method is good for most any project worked in the round. Top down hats. Toe up socks. Sweater collars, cuffs, and hems.

Test it out and see what you think.

Arm Warmer Weather

finished arm warmers

Fall is a great time for arm warmers.

The weather was beautiful today! Sunny and in the mid to high 60s. It was even nicer after the cold, rainy weather we’ve been having lately.

It was a great day for wearing my arm warmers. I didn’t want to be weighed down with a coat, but the weather was a little too warm for a jacket.

They added just enough warmth to keep me comfortable.

You can find the free pattern for these Simple Striped Arm Warmers here. There is a free crocheted version as well.

 

Yarn Spotlight: Mirasol Ushya

October 25, 2012 in Cowls, Mirasol, shawl, Sweaters

There a six new colors of Ushya from Mirasol for the fall. This 98% Merino Wool, 2% Nylon blend yarn has a chainette construction, which gives it bulk and loft while remaining light and fluffy. The air pockets created by the unique construction will help keep you warm.

With a suggested gauge of 2 to 2.5 sts per inch on a US 15 needle you’ll be able to finish projects quickly.

You might remember that over the summer knit the Tatu Cowl from the Ushya & Sulka Book #27 is just a few days.

I wanted to highlight some of the beautiful patterns, both old and new, using this yarn.

Mirasol Book #30 by Claudia Wersing

Oriental Dream coat

Isn't this fair isle coat beautiful?

This stunning color work coat is called “Oriental Dream.”

I like the details of the corrugated rib and the generous fold over collar.

Cayenne vest

Love the cables on the Cayenne vest

For something a little simpler consider the “Cayenne Vest.”

This project highlights that despite the fluffy nature of Ushya yarn it has good stitch definition for cables or pattern stitches.

You can find both these patterns in the new Book #30 by Claudia Wersing (Miski, Sulka, Ushya) by Mirasol.

Book #19 by Jane Ellison

This was the first Ushya book to come out.

It features sweaters, scarves and even pillows!

Jacob sweater

All you need is a cup of hot coco!

I like the Jacob sweater.

It looks warm, cozy and comfortable, but the all over pattern stitch keeps it sophisticated. I think it would be good for either curled up on the couch knitting and drinking coco or going out to lunch with friends on the weekend.

You can see all the patterns from this book here.

Independent Designs

I was wandering around Ravelry the other day and noticed there are many patterns listed for Ushya. The first few rows are Jane Ellison’s patterns from the official books (which makes them easy to review), the bottom of the page and onto a second page and patterns by independent designers.

There are hats, scarves, and cowls that all take advantage of the warm and chunky properties of this yarn.

Two patterns caught my eye.

Springy Sproingy Cowl by Shannon Squire

Springy Sproingy Cowl by Shannon Squire. Photo by Vivian Aubrey

The Springy Sproingy Cowl is by Shannon Squire at Twisted Yarn Shop, a local yarn store in Portland, Ore. You can see the other lovely pictures Vivian Aubrey took of the cowl on the Ravelry project page.

I like the combination of open and closed panels used on this cowl, which calls for just one skein of Ushya. Best of all the pattern only cost $1!

I think between this cowl and the Tatu Cowl you could cross a bunch of gift knits off your list in a weekend.

tree by leaf by Courtney Buckalew-Kramer

tree by leaf by Courtney Buckalew-Kramer

This is the tree by leaf by Courtney Buckalew-Kramer at Mosaic Yarn Studio, a local yarn store in Des Plaines, Ill.

Isn’t it stunning?

I like the grand scale of the leaf motifs. This wrap is very eye catching and unique. It’s sure to be a conversation starter when you wear it.

It looks like the pattern requires 2 skeins of Ushya (might be best to buy 3 and either return the extra or use it to make a hat). The pattern costs $5, which is standard for an independent designer and worth the money since you can get right to the fun of knitting.

Free Patterns

Speaking of knitting a hat, don’t forget that we have a free pattern for a one skein Ushya hat on our website.

Ushya Hat

Free pattern on our website

Worked in the round on US13 needles you’ll be finished knitting in practically no time at all.

Ushya sweater

Free pattern on our website

If more than your head is cold you might want to also download the free Ushya sweater pattern while you’re there.

This modified drop shoulder pullover will be suitable for an advanced beginner looking for their first sweater project, or an experienced knitter looking for an easy project.

It’s worked in garter stitch and the only shaping is around the arms.

The next time you’re visiting your local yarn store give Ushya a squeeze. I’m sure you’ll be enchanted.