Spring Has Sprung?

March 21, 2013 in bag, crochet, Ella Rae, Katia, miscellaneous, Mondial, Noro

Wednesday was, supposedly, first day of Spring. That is hard for me to believe up here in the North East where it has been snowing since Tuesday night.

Despite the lack of visible grass and flowers outside, I’m still finding myself drawn to the new cotton yarns arriving for spring and summer knitting and crocheting.

Maybe if I put down my Ella Rae Classic Wool arm warmers and start working on something in cotton Mother Nature will get the hint?

Another thing turning my thoughts to Spring is that Easter is just over a week away! It seems so early this year, but there is still time to whip out a few hand made projects to include in the Easter Baskets.

Cotton Crocheted egg by Katia.

Cotton Crocheted egg by Katia.

This adorable striped crocheted egg is a free pattern on the Katia website.

The pattern is in 5 languages. English is the middle one.

Worked in a chunky cotton yarn with an L hook, you should be finished in next to no time.

If you can’t find the Katia yarn called for in the pattern at your local yarn store, ask for the new Ella Rae yarn Melbourne. This chunky 100% Cotton yarn should be a good substitute.

Garter Stitch Bag by Ella Rae using Melbourne.

Garter Stitch Bag by Ella Rae using Melbourne.

While you’re checking out the Melbourne yarn, flip through the pattern book of the same name. There are great spring and summer sweater patterns for women and girls, and some charming accessories as well.

This simple garter stitch bag from the Melbourne book would be handy for carrying your finds during the Easter Egg hunt and then continue to be a cute summer purse after all the Peeps have been consumed.

Mondial Cable 5 yarn in color #315

Mondial Cable 5 yarn in color #315

As you know, the size of the stuffed egg can be changed by adjusting the yarn and hook used. For a thinner option consider the new Cable 5 yarn from Mondial.

This fingering weight 100% Pure Egyptian Mako Cotton has approximately 220 yards per 50g ball and is available in 35 colors ranging from neutral through pastel to vibrant primaries!

Between those two yarns you’ll find Ella Rae Phoenix. There are 12 new colors of this classic, worsted weight, 100% Egyptian Cotton yarn.

Coco by Ella Rae using Phoenix yarn.

Coco by Ella Rae using Phoenix yarn.

This soft, crisp yarn is great for garments and accessories for the entire family. This cute cabled sweater is the Coco pattern from Ella Rae book #116.

Designed by Debbie Bliss, both patterns are free on our website.

Designed by Debbie Bliss, both patterns are free on our website.

Getting away from cotton, but keeping with the Easter theme, is the adorable Noro Bunny designed by Debbie Bliss. It is a free pattern on our website. (The bear pattern is here.)

They each require just one skein of Noro Kureyon yarn, but look just as good in Noro Silk Garden.

But you can always think Spring and knit them in cotton instead!

42nd Street Mitts–Concept

March 16, 2013 in Ella Rae, Inspiration, Mitts

Last weekend was spent visiting family and involved a lot of crisscrossing of the territory from New Jersey to Long Island.

Happily, I wasn’t driving so I got a lot of car knitting done!

On one of our crossings we popped out of the Lincoln Tunnel and ended up on 42nd Street.

On a Saturday evening.

In the middle of a bunch of cars and tourists.

On the bright side (aside from the fact that I wasn’t driving) the heavy traffic gave us plenty of time to enjoy the sights, sounds, and (ahem) smells of The City.

One of the sights that caught my eye was a woman wearing a very cute pair of cream colored arm warmers. The arms was just ribbing, but there was a black snowflake motif at the wrist.

Concept sketch for 42nd Street Mitts

Concept sketch for 42nd Street Mitts

We were moving so slowly that I probably had time to take a picture, but I didn’t think of it.

Heck, we were moving so slowly that I probably had time to jump out of the car, chase her down, take several pictures, and get back to the car before they’d gone to far. But I didn’t because jumping out of the car would have stressed everyone out.

So I just have my memory and imagination to recreate them!

As you can see from my sketch (and my drawing skills leave a lot to be desired!) I’ve probably embellished them a little bit.

Swatching

Since I’m basically designing the arm warmers from scratch, some swatching is in order.

First motif option

First motif option

After flipping through all my stitch dictionaries, I found the image of a snowflake motif that I liked on page 89 of The Ultimate Knitting Book from Vogue Knitting.

My swatch is quite pleasant, although not quite what I had in mind, and I thought I’d go for it. (I think the snowflake on the lady’s mitts was thinner. More a a line snowflake with dots around it.)

But as I settled down recreate the chart an issue presented itself.

My swatch didn’t look like the knitted sample in the book despite the fact that I’d followed the accompanying chart.

This required two charts.

First I recreated the chart that appears in the book and that matches my swatch.

Then I created a chart based on the knitted sample in the book.

Both motif options

Both motif options

As you can see, the centers are rather different. Both motifs are 15 sts wide, but the first one is 19 rows tall while the second is 15 rows tall.

This discrepancy is going to set my designing back, but that is one of the reasons we swatch.

My next step will be working a swatch of the second motif so I can have a better idea of which one I prefer.

Go For It

In the mean time, this is probably enough information for other experienced knitters to run with the idea. Everyone else will have to wait until I’ve knit at least one mitt so I have good numbers for you!

This is what I have so far:

Materials:

Yarn: Ella Rae Classic Wool (black and white or colors of your selection)

Needles: US7

Gauge: I’m calling it 5.5 sts/inch, but it’s unclear. I worked a 19 stitch swatch and it’s about 3 1/2″ wide.

I’m thinking a motif on both the top and the bottom of the wrist so the yarn travels around the mitt. I’m thinking 40 sts for the motif section.

40 sts at 5.5 sts/inch should give you a 7″ circumference, which will fit my wee wrists.

I’m planning arm warmers, so I want them to reach up my forearm, which would mean casting on 56 sts for a 10″ circumference. Then gradually decreasing down to 40.

Maybe. It’s a work in progress.

Chadwick Argyle Cowl

March 5, 2013 in Cowls, Free, Juniper Moon Farm Yarns

Over the holidays Hubby and I went to the Stars on Ice show with his parents.

It’s so exciting to see those world-class athletes gliding so effortlessly across the ice. Of course, I live to see the jumps!

The costumes for the opening sequence were graphic black and white designs with a splash of red here and there–one skater had red hat, another red gloves. As mesmerized as I was by the routine, another part of my brain was trying to figure out how to reinterpret those costumes in knitting.

Stripes seemed too easy (although some of the costumes were striped!).

Then I realized argyle was the way to go. I could use black and white for the main colors and red as the accent diagonal color.

You can wear it standing up if it's cold out.

You can wear it standing up if it’s cold out.

The next decision was the yarn, and what better option than the beautiful Juniper Moon Farm Chadwick? As a 60% Merino Wool, 40% Baby Alpaca it both soft and warm.

Susan Gibbs selected colors that would stand alone or be good for mixing and matching in color work projects, so there are a multitude of combinations you can try.

While the costumes during Stars on Ice were crisp and bold black, white, and scarlet, I decided to tone my colors down for what, to my mind, is a more sophisticated look. I used Black Magic, Dawn, and Syrah.

It's soft enough to scrunch down, too.

It’s soft enough to scrunch down, too.

I knit my cowl with 5 diamonds, for a finished circumference of 25″. It took just under half of each ball of yarn. I’m fairly certain a second cowl, especially one of just 4 diamonds, would be possible from the remaining yarn.

Or you could make a striped hat. Get creative.

Yeah, argyle!

Yeah, argyle!

You can download the pattern for the Chadwick Argyle Cowl here.

You can add the pattern to your Ravelry queue here.

Stay tuned later this week for future posts with tips on knitting intarsia.

Yelcho Scarf

March 4, 2013 in Araucania, crochet, Free, Scarves

Last week a friend asked if I would knit her a scarf.

I had just finished my Loreto cowl and hadn’t settled on my next project yet, so I said sure.

She wanted the colors purple and teal. After rummaging around a bit I gave her a few options and she selected a lovely shade of Araucania Yelcho yarn in color #1807, which includes both colors.

That was lucky because it meant I wouldn’t have to worry about making stripes. I could just happily knit away.

Doesn't that look squishy?

Doesn’t that look squishy?

Yelcho is a 60% Wool, 20% Kid Mohair, 10% Silk, 10% Nylon blend so it is warm, soft, and crunchy all at the same time. There are a lot of fun textures going on with this yarn!

Each hank has 275 yards per 100g so I knew I’d only need one or two to make a good size scarf.

Yelcho Ribbed Scarf “pattern”

The finished scarf is 108" long and I'm only 5' tall!

The finished scarf is 108″ long and I’m only 5′ tall!

It’s a knit two, purl two scar, so I can hardly call it a pattern, but here goes.

Size: 5″ wide x 108″ long

Materials: Araucania Yelcho yarn, 2 hanks.

Needles: US 9 or size needed to obtain gauge

Gauge: 30 sts = 4″ in K2, P2 rib, relaxed. 21 rows=4″

Pattern:

Cast on 36 sts

Work in Knit 2, Purl 2 rib until you run out of yarn or can’t stand it any more.

Bind off. Weave in ends.

One skein would make a good cowl.

One skein would make a good cowl.

After one hank the scarf was about 50″ long. That was a bit short for a scarf if you want to wrap it, in my opinion, so I added the second hank. Of course, you can always use one hank, sew the ends together, and call it a cowl.

It's long enough to wear different ways.

It’s long enough to wear different ways.

I didn’t add fringe because my friend isn’t fringe type. If you want fringe I suggest you cut them before you get started. Then you can happily knit the scarf until you run out of yarn without worrying about leaving enough for the fringe.

Other Project Ideas

Wrap and snood from Jenny Watson Fall 2011 book.

Wrap and snood from Jenny Watson Fall 2011 book.

For a more challenging scarf pattern, check out the lace scarf and snood by Jenny Watson in the Fall 2011 Araucania book.

This book also includes a really nice cardigan using Yelcho yarn along with great projects using Budi yarn and Rinihue yarn.

Yelcho also looks great when crocheted.

This stunning crocheted dress pattern is free on our website.

This stunning crocheted dress pattern is free on our website.

This stunning crocheted dress is a free pattern on our website. A cabled edging and shell stitch bands make this dress a stand out. It is worked flat and seamed, which helps add stability.

You can add the dress to your Ravelry queue here.

It took me just over a week to knit the scarf for my friend. If you start now, you’ll be able to get a lot of wear out of it before the spring!

On and Off the Needles: Indulgence Beanie

March 2, 2013 in Free, Hats, Knitting Fever Inc

Just because a yarn is called “sock yarn” doesn’t mean you have to restrict yourself to knitting socks with it.

Did you already know that or is it a light bulb statement?

So called sock yarn can be used to knit shawls, scarves, hats, gloves and mittens, and even sweaters.

The two things to remember about sock yarn is that it will usually be a fingering weight (so it will fit in your shoes nicely) and it usually has a touch of nylon included for durability. (Think of the friction of rubbing against the back of your heel as you walk.)

Not all sock yarns need to be knit on itty bitty needles at a fine gauge. Our Indulgence 6 Ply yarn, for instance, has a suggested gauge of 21 sts to 4″ (5.25 sts/1″) on needles ranging from a US 3 to US 6. It is a 75% Extrafine Merino Wool, 25% Polyamide blend.

That is considered more of a sport weight gauge and is much more reasonable for projects beyond socks.

Indulgence also comes in some awesome self-patterning colors.

Socks and photo by Wool Becomes Ewe.

Socks and photo by Wool Becomes Ewe.

These happy lime/blue/purple socks are being knit by Wool Becomes Ewe, a local yarn store in Virginia. (There is a sock pattern on the Indulgence ball band.)

That picture, combined with this one from Metaphor Yarns, a local yarn store in Massachusetts, reminded me that I was hording some Indulgence of my own.

Photo by Metaphor Yarns

Photo by Metaphor Yarns

Aren’t those colors luscious?

I’ve made myself socks using the color at the top right. And I used the color in the middle to make socks for my brother.

The one in the bottom right is the one that caught my eye this week.

Hello, handsome.

Hello, handsome.

I don’t know about you, but a lot of my younger relatives are suddenly having babies. There are three new babies in the past four months and another one due in April!

It occurred to me that since Indulgence is silky soft AND machine washable it would be great for baby garments.

I settled on the Amity Print Beanie pattern from Ella Rae, which is free on our website (look for the “download pattern” link under the big picture on the left), and got to knitting. I cast on Wednesday evening and finished it up Friday night.

No baby handy, so my hand had to model.

No baby handy, so my hand had to model.

How adorable is this hat?!

The colors came up so nicely and it’s such a clean, simple design that I want to make one for myself.

Considering it didn’t take much yarn at all, there is probably enough left in the ball for me to do that. Each ball is 426 yards, after all. In fact, based on past experience, and my little feet, I’m pretty sure there is enough yarn left for me to make myself a pair of socks, because I just love this color.

I like the gathered effect on the top.

I like the gathered effect on the top.

Now, I did make some modifications to the pattern.

First off, the pattern is written to be worked flat and seamed. I don’t have the patience for that so I just followed the stitch count, but worked it in the round. Of course, when you get to the crown shaping you have to change the purls to knits in that case.

Second, I dropped the top knot.

Third, and this is probably a big one, in the fine knitting tradition of “It will fit someone” I didn’t bother trying to get gauge. I used US6 needles and got 6 sts per inch, which is nowhere near the 4.5 sts/inch called for in the pattern. But, for a baby hat, I think it will be just fine.

When you are weaving in your ends remember that because of the rolled brim you should weave the cast on tail onto the “public” side of the work. If you weave it to the “private” side the end might show when the brim rolls up.

With so much yarn still available I’m debating making little socks to match.

Or maybe fingerless mitts for myself!

Off the Needles: Loreto Cowl

February 26, 2013 in Cowls, Mirasol

I finished knitting the cabled Loreto Cowl from Mirasol book #23!

I used the Kutama yarn called for in the pattern. Kutama is a Quechua name meaning “woollen blanket.” That is appropriate for a yarn that is 50% Alpaca, 50% Highland Wool.

This yarn is warm and springy, making it lovely to knit with and wear.

Cream section of my Loreto cowl

Cream section of my Loreto cowl

The cowl in the pattern book is shown in blue. I know some people have trouble visualizing a project in a different color once the see the sample in the book, so I made mine using three colors to give you an idea of how it will look.

Light grey section of my Loreto cowl

Light grey section of my Loreto cowl (Can you see the mistake under my nose?)

This was a fun knit. Despite the complicated looking cables, it moves along quickly once you get going. After you work the eight row repeat once it is easy to see the pattern developing because it is so regular.

Dark Grey section of my Loreto cowl

Dark Grey section of my Loreto cowl

With a little focus you could probably finish this cowl in a week or so. Plenty of time to wear it before spring!

There are a lot of great patterns in the book.

The Tacna pullover uses the same cable as the Loreto pullover.

The Tacna pullover uses the same cable as the Loreto pullover.

If you adore the lattice cable used in the Loreto Cowl then you’ll probably love the Tacna pullover. Isn’t it beautiful? You can make the Loreto Cowl to become familiar with the pattern before starting the sweater.

If you aren’t ready to tackle a sweater, there is a lovely pair of fingerless mitts in the book as well.

Fingerless mitts are a fast and fun project.

Fingerless mitts are a fast and fun project.

Don’t Fear Cables

Many knitters are scared to work cables because they look so complicated and mysterious.

However, there is no reason to worry. Cables are just stitches worked out of order.

Besides, what’s the worst that can happen? You have to pull out a few rows and try again. We’ve all done that and we know yarn can be very forgiving.

Since you are working stitches out of order you need a way to get around the stitches you are temporarily skipping.

That is where a cable needle comes in.

Use the cable needle to move the stitches out of your way.

Use the cable needle to move the stitches out of your way.

When you are ready to work a cable you slip the assigned stitches to the cable needle purlwise without working them. (By “purlwise” I, of course, mean to go into the stitch as though you were going to purl it. This helps prevent it from getting twisted.)

Then you push them to either the front or back, as the pattern directs. Work the required number of stitches on the left hand needle, then work the stitches on the cable needle.

See, that wasn’t so bad, was it?

In the picture I’m about to work a back cable, which in the pattern is written C4B. That means to work a back twist cable over the next 4 sts.

When you see a cable notation in a pattern the number will indicate the total number of stitches involved in the cable, but you’ll cut it in half. So a C4B is over 4 sts, but you’ll deal with them 2 at a time. Move 2 to the cable needle, work 2 off the left needle, work the two on the cable needle.

This holds true for however big or small that number is. A C10B would be managed 5 sts at a time. See the pattern?

The Loreto cowl also involves twists. In this pattern the difference between a cable and a twist is that the twist involves purl stitch as well as knit stitches. But they are worked just the same as a cable. You move stitches out of the way and work them later. You might just be purling two of them instead of knitting all four.

The abbreviation key in the book explains how to work the various cables and twists used.

Many people prefer not to use a cable needle, but I’m not that brave. They say it is faster because you aren’t fiddling with a third needle. You should try it for yourself and see which method you prefer. If you do an internet search on “knitting cable without cable needle” you’ll find many videos and blog posts about this alternate method.

But it might be easier to get a lesson at your local yarn store since you’ll have someone available to answer questions.

 

Startitis

February 17, 2013 in Cowls, Elsebeth Lavold, Hats, Juniper Moon Farm Yarns, Mirasol, miscellaneous, shawl

I had a small case of “startitis” over the weekend.

You’ve had the feeling even if you haven’t heard the name before. It’s that overwhelming urge to cast on or start as many projects as you can.

I was busy swatching over the weekend.

I was busy swatching over the weekend.

It can be caused by a desire to start a new project without know what you want to make. Trips to a local yarn store or fiber festival can also trigger from the sight of all the pretty yarn.

Finishing (or getting close to the end of) a long term or complicated project can be a cause. And cabin fever (Knitting Fever? hahaha) brought on by cold winters days can contribute.

As you can see, startitis is a wide ranging ailment.

I find it’s often best to give into it, especially the cause is not being sure what project to start. If you do a bunch of swatching one project is bound to rise to the top.

Something Small?

My bout of startitis was brought on by finishing a complicated cowl and needing a new project.

Asta set from Elsebeth Lavold The Small Things Matter Collection

Asta set from Elsebeth Lavold The Small Things Matter Collection

Originally I thought maybe I wanted a small and quick project for some instant gratification after my big project.

The lovely magenta yarn at the 6 or 7 o’clock position in the first picture is a cake of Elsebeth Lavold Silky Wool.

You just need one hank to make all three pieces of the Asta set from The Small Things Matter Collection.

But I just finished a cowl, did I want to make another one?

Hats!

The cowl abandoned (although the cuffs were still in play), I decided to focus on my need for a new hat.

As a knitter, I obviously can’t just go to the store to buy one. Instead I spent time thumbing through my pattern books and poking around on Ravelry looking for ideas. (Both those activities can also trigger startitis.)

Monika set from Elsebeth Lavold The Small Things Matter Collection

Monika set from Elsebeth Lavold The Small Things Matter Collection

Right there an another page of The Small Things Matter Collection is the Monika hat and bag.

Look at those stripes! I won’t even have to settle on one color.

The pattern calls for holding Silky Wool doubled, but I had a sneaky suspicion that Silky Wool XL might be the correct gauge by itself.

Elsebeth Lavold Silky Wool XL for the Monika hat.

Elsebeth Lavold Silky Wool XL for the Monika hat.

It took a couple tries, but I achieved gauge on US 6 needles. Victory is mine! I started by using the suggested needle size for the pattern (US7) and swatched with regular Silky Wool held doubled as the pattern required and a single strand of Silky Wool XL side by side.

That allowed me to see that the fabric with the XL would be the same (or very similar) to the fabric at the same gauge as the regular Silky Wool. We’ll see what happens since I’ve been too clever for my own good in the past.

Maybe a shawl?

Of course, I couldn’t stop there. Having finished one big project maybe another large project was the way to go.

Gable Wrap Pattern is free on our website.

Gable Wrap Pattern is free on our website.

That purple ball of Juniper Moon Farm Findley (#4 – Renaissance) in the middle of the picture has been taunting me for a while now. That ball and it’s twin want to be the Gable Wrap, which is a free pattern on our website.

I still need to swatch for this one. It is knit using the “Indian Cross-Stitch,” which I’ve never knit before. Swatching will allow me to both check my gauge and become familiar with the stitch before starting the shawl.

The only problem is the suggested needle is US5 and I’m not sure where mine is (we will ignore the implications of one or two active projects that these missing needles imply). I might not end up using US 5 needles to knit this shawl, but I always like to start with the suggested needles when I start swatching. One day I’ll get lucky!

WIPs to fall back on

Fortunately, when I got tired of all the swatching and actually wanted to knit something I had a, ahem, few works in progress to fall back on.

Progress on my Loreto Cowl from Mirasol book #23.

Progress on my Loreto Cowl from Mirasol book #23.

Lately I’ve been trying to pay attention to my Loreto Cowl from Mirasol Book #23.

I love the cables on this cowl. It looks complicated, but once you get the rhythm of the cables it’s pretty straight forward.

I’m using three shades of Kutama, a 50% Alpaca, 50% Highland Wool blend, hoping to achieve a shaded look.

This is a great pattern that is fun to knit, but sometimes I need a break from all those cables!

Blown Away

I took a break from all my swatching and planning to take my yarn outside for pictures. I thought the natural light would show the colors better, but it was late in the afternoon and getting a bit dark.

And then a gust of wind started blowing my yarn off the table and down the hill!

Good thing Samson was there to catch them.

Good thing Samson was there to catch them.

Which seemed like a sign that it was time to collect my toys and go back inside.

I hope your weekend knitting and crocheting was a little more productive.

Top Down Mittens: Thumb

January 5, 2013 in Ella Rae, Free, Mitts, Tips, Uncategorized

The top down mittens I’ve been knitting using Ella Rae Lace Merino Worsted yarn are almost done!

I’ve knit both thumbs and just have to finish off the cuff.

Now, I’m going to provide the pattern for the thumb, but you’ll have to remember you’re not locked into my numbers. You have to trust your knitter’s instinct and pick up more stitches to close up the holes in the corners.

The only thing you’ll have to worry about is to have a number divisible by 3 (so 18 or 21 stitches) in order to have the decreases work properly.

Late to the party? You can find the start of the mittens here. And the Thumb Gusset here.

Thumb Pattern

 

Transfer the stitches for the thumb from the holders to two needles. (16 sts)

Attach the working yarn to the bottom of the thumb and knit across 12 sts.

Pick up one or more on the side of the hand to close the gap.

Knit across 4 sts on top of thumb.

Pick up one or more on side of hand to close gap.

You will not have anywhere from 18 to 22 on your needles. Divide stitches as evenly as possible on three needles. Attach a marker to this row for measuring later.

Knit in the round until thumb measures about 1″ from picked up sts.

If necessary, decrease as many sts as necessary on the next round to get to either 18 or 21 sts. (So if you have 22 sts, K2tog once. If you have 20 sts, K2tog, k half way around, k2tog, k to end)

Knit one round even.

Begin thumb decreases: K2tog at the beginning of each needle. K remaining sts on needle. (3 sts decreased)

K one round even

Alternate decrease round and knit even round until 6 sts remain.

Cut yarn, leaving a generous tail. Draw tail through remaining sts and pull tight.

Finish knitting cuffs. Bind off in rib pattern.

Weave in ends. Go play in the snow.

See what I mean about using your knitter’s instinct for the thumb? It’s good practice in visualizing the end result you want and just making the stitches get there.

One my first thumb I had 19 sts after picking up in the corners. After knitting for an inch, I knit two together at the beginning of the round because I think it’s easier to decrease with even numbers.

On the second thumb I had 18 sts after picking up in the corners, so I didn’t have to worry about  decreasing until I got to the top of the thumb. The finished thumbs still match nicely.

Transferring Stitches

Now, an experienced knitter who has used a crochet chain provisional cast on won’t have any trouble transferring the stitches from the chain to the needles in order to knit the thumb.

A knitter who hasn’t used this method before might be puzzled. I had a little trouble getting picture of the process, but these should put you on the correct path.

If you do an internet search for “crochet provisional cast on” you’ll find options for videos and other blog posts about it. However, it might be easier to head down to your local yarn store for help in person. The other blog post pictures I saw did seem much more clear.

First, take a look at the picture up above and compare it to your own knitting. You can see nice, normal looking stitches pierced by the crochet chain. You’ll want to slide your knitting needle under the right hand leg of each stitch.

Really, you’ll just want to get the stitches onto your needle. You can worry about untwisting them later.

Once you’ve inserted your needle you can pull on the crochet chain and it will pop of out the knit stitch.

Some directions will have you just pull out the crochet chain all at once and trust your stitches not to run. I’m too nervous for that, so I take the more fiddly route and slowly pull the chain out as I go along.

You’ll have to decide how brave you are, and how slippery your yarn is, before you select a method.

This might be one of those techniques where you want to set up a practice piece to try it out before you apply it to your project.

The Length of a Cuff

You’ll remember from my last blog post that I was planning to knit the cuffs for at least 2 inches before working the thumb.

That’s just what I did.

The 2″ cuffs seemed rather short to me. Since I had plenty of yarn left I unpicked the bind off, reattached my yarn, and continued knitting the cuffs.

While the ribbing draws in, you might want to consider going down one needle size to make a more snug cuff. You might also want to knit a few more rows of stockinette stitch between the bottom of the thumb gusset and the start of the cuff ribbing.

Try it on and see what you think.

Our Facebook Fan Joyce S. says:

Way back when, I made mittens with a 2″-3″ cuff and a 1″ stocking knit before starting the thumb. Cuff would be long enough to tuck under coat sleeve and the space before the thumb made it fit better

After knitting on the cuff for a while I realized I didn’t know how long I should make it. The mittens are big for me, which is making it hard for me to judge the fit. They actually fit my husband nicely. I used his hand to judge the thumb size and the 2″ cuff was definitely short on him.

These mittens are for a friend in another state, so I can’t have her try them on. And they are sort of a surprise, so I don’t want to ask how long she’d like them.

Since I couldn’t ask my friend, I asked our Facebook fans.

The general range is from 2″ to 6″ with many people saying it depends on the person who will wear it. Many people like the cuff to be long enough to tuck into their coat sleeve.

Jennifer DD says:

Male or female? I’d use the Stephanie Purl McFee rules – use an index finger length or index finger to the first knuckle.

Amanda E gave me a giggle with her suggestion of:

Elbow length,’cuz elbow length mittens sound awesome.

Cali had an interesting guideline:

I do a standard hand width past the bottom of the thumb hole.

At this point, my cuffs are 4″ long and I still have a decent amount of yarn left.

I think I’m going to continue the cuff until I run out of yarn. That way my friend has options. She can wear them long or fold them down for extra warmth.

And if she doesn’t want a really long cuff she can ask one of the knitters near her (and there are plenty!) to shorten it for her. Since I’m ending at the cuff it will be a simple matter for them to unravel a bit and bind off.

What these long cuffs really mean is that my Top Down Mittens are a one skein project. Hooray! You will just need one hank of Ella Rae Lace Merino Worsted to knit your own pair.

This 100% Superwash Merino Wool yarn comes in a mix of 36 semi-solid and variegated colors. Which one would you use?

Top Down Mittens: Thumb Holes & Gusset

January 2, 2013 in Ella Rae, Mitts, Tips

When last you saw my green mittens (um, yesterday) knit using Ella Rae Lace Merino Worsted yarn I had knit the hand to the point where I was ready to add the thumb hole.

For mittens (and gloves) that are knit from the cuff to the fingers you’ll reach a point (usually just above the cuff) where you’ll start increasing for the thumb gusset. The gusset is to accommodate the extra width the base of the thumb gives to your hand.

In that style thumb you increase to a set number of stitches between your markers then either bind them off or place them on a stitch holder. Then you cast on new stitches to replace the missing stitches and continue knitting the hand.

You can see that type of thumb being used in the Chadwick Owl Arm Warmers I knit for my aunt last month.

Provisional Cast On

For my Top Down Mittens I’m going to build the thumb gusset in reverse.

First you place stitches on the hand on a holder for the top of the thumb hole. Next you cast on many stitches for the bottom of the thumb hole. Then you decrease all those extra stitches away to create the gusset.

Provisional cast on

Go under the bump on the back of the chain

Instead of just using a “backward e” cast on to bridge the gap of the thumb hole I decided to use a crochet chain provisional cast on.

This has a bit more stability than the “backward e” method and will also give me live stitches to use when I’m ready to knit the thumb since I’ll be able to unzip the crochet chain and transfer the stitches to a knitting needle.

If you use the backward e, or another closed cast on, you’ll have to pick up stitches along the edge of the thumb hole when you’re ready to knit your thumb.

To work this type of provisional cast on you’ll want a length of contrasting color yarn in a similar weight to your main yarn. I’m using a scrap of Sublime Extra Fine Merino Wool DK.

Work a crochet chain of more stitches than you’ll need. In this case I planned to pick up 12 stitches so I made a chain 20 stitches long. I often find that some of the chains are useable so having extra saves trouble down the line.

Take a look at the chain. One side will look like little Vs reminiscent of a column of knit stitches. The other side will have little bumps. You want to work on the bump side.

Insert your knitting needle under the bump and knit it as you normally would. That is what I’m doing in the picture, which just proves that one picture is worth a thousand words!

After you’ve picked up all your stitches in the crochet chain bumps you just resume knitting on the hand as though nothing unusual happened.

Oh! It’s helpful to place a stitch marker on the right hand needle before you start picking up the stitches on the chain and then another one when you’ve finished. That will target you’re gusset decreases.

Other Applications

I’m using the crochet chain provisional cast for my thumb hole, but there are many other places you can use it.

If you are working toe up socks you can start with this provisional cast on in combination with a short row toe.

You can use it for inserting a pocket into a sweater or cardigan.

Sometimes scarves have a pattern that has to be “upright.” In that case you might knit two separate pieces that are grafted together. You can use this provisional cast on in that situation.

Basically, if you want to have access to live stitches at a point in the future this might be a good option.

thumb holes

Yeah, thumb holes!

Pattern! Thumb hole & Gusset

The start of the mittens are in yesterday’s blog post.

After working the hand from the fingers down to the desired length start your thumb holes.

Right mitten:

Round 1: K22, place last 4 sts worked on a holder for later, K to end of round.

Round 2: K18, Pm (place marker), PU and knit 12 sts from crochet chain, PM, K to end

Round 3: K even

Round 4 (decrease round): K to marker, SM (slip marker) SSK, k to 2 sts before next marker, K2tog, SM, K to end

Round 5: K even

Alternate Decrease Round and Knit even round until you have 46 sts.

Next round: K2tog between markers.

Knit one round even.

Next round: Decrease one stitch to get to 44 sts total (I worked a k2tog in line with the other gusset decreases to keep thing neat.)

Knit one round even.

Left Mitten:

K6, Place last 4 sts worked on a holder, k to end.

K2, PM, PU 12 sts from crochet chain, PM, k to end.

Work shaping as for Right Mitten.

Cuff: Things are getting tricky

I plan to work a K2, P2 rib for the cuff.

I say things are getting tricky because I’m not sure how far my yarn will get me. Remember, I’m knitting these in real time as I’m posting! If I run out of yarn I’ll have learned my lesson and will finish the project before I start posting so we’ll all know what to expect. haha.

My plan is to knit the cuffs for 2″, break the yarn, knit the thumbs, and use any remaining yarn to expend the cuffs.

If you aren’t feeling daring you can always just knit the cuff and thumb in an alternate yarn from the start. The really safe thing to do would be buy to hanks of yarn at the beginning so you don’t have to worry about quantities!

2 At A Time

As you can see in these pictures, and as people on our Facebook page have already guessed, I’m knitting the mittens 2-at-a-time.

2 at a time

I use dpns and a circ to keep things organized

Usually people use two circular needles when they make socks or mittens two at a time.

I like to be different and use one circular and a set of double pointed needles instead. I find this system better enables me to keep track of where I am and see the flow of the knitting.

See, you have half the project on one needle and have the project on the other needle. You have to treat the halves as a single row or you’ll get all confused and end up working one mitten and ignoring the other, which defeats the purpose of working them simultaneously in order to keep them even!

By “working them as a single row’ I mean you have to knit both palms and then both tops in order. If you are going to put the project down you should make sure you are at the side. Don’t stop in the middle!

Some people use two different length circular needles (so a 24″ and a 32″) or two different styles as a cue for where they are. With my system I know that I’ll knit all the double pointed needles first. Then I’ll use the two ends of the circular needle to knit those stitches.

You can probably take a class for knitting projects two at a time at your local yarn store. They’ll probably offer it as a sock class since that seems to be the most common application. If you’ve been wanting to learn to knit socks you’ll be getting two techniques at once!

There are also probably videos available, but you can’t ask a video questions!

On The Needles: Top-Down Mittens

January 2, 2013 in Ella Rae, Mitts

Happy New Year!

Mittens and champagne

Happy New Year!

I hope you sent 2012 off in fine fashion and are revved up to make 2013 a year full of fun, happiness, and yarn!

You will not be surprised to hear that I welcomed the New Year with yarn in one hand, a champagne toast in the other, a kiss from my beloved husband.

mitten start

Doesn't look like much yet.

If you are a fan of our Facebook page my project will look familiar because I was teasing you with obscure pictures over the weekend.

When I posted this picture most people guessed I was working on a toe-up sock. While that is a reasonable assumption, I’m actually working on a pair of top-down mittens.

I started them using “Judy’s Magic Cast On“, which is a popular start for toe up socks.

The advantages of working mittens fingers down are similar to those of working socks toe up.

In my opinion it’s easier to control the length of the fingers when working top down. You can try the mitten on and when it reaches you’re thumb it’s long enough. The thumb acts as an anchor as opposed to cuff-up mittens that can slide around when you’re trying them on.

I also think it’s easier to make the cuff as long as you want when working fingers down. Again, the mitten is anchored by your fingers and thumb so you get a more accurate fit.

Finally, if you run out of yarn it makes more sense to have a different colored cuff then to have your finger tips a different color.

mittens

Same yarn, different looks

Mittens, like socks, move along quickly. That is lucky because these mittens were a long time coming.

At the end of last winter my friend Judy explained the lining had worn out of her a pair of old fashioned leather mittens and asked whether it would be possible for me to knit her a new lining. I said yes, but it was already spring time so I had months, and months before she would need them.

Of course, now winter is in full swing and I’m frantically knitting!

I’m using Ella Rae Lace Merino Worsted yarn in color #2-Greens. This 100% Superwash Merino Wool yarn comes in 218 yard hanks, so I’m hoping it will be enough for the pair. If not I have some black Classic Wool on standby for the cuff.

Wool is a great choice for mittens because it is warm, durable, and absorbent. Did you know that wool can continue to keep you warm even when it’s wet?

The Lace Merino Worsted will be soft and cozy for Judy’s fingers, but they will also be long lasting because yarn has a multiplied structure with a good twist.

first mitten

A nice swirly pattern

After starting the first mitten I decided to work them two-at-a-time to ensure they come out even.

I was also afraid of accidentally working two right mittens! By working them at the same time I was sure to place my thumbs correctly.

second mitten

A nice striped pattern

The mittens are turning into an interesting example of how hand-dyed yarn can have different results.

I’m working with both ends of the same ball of yarn, on the same knitting needles, with the same gauge and stitch count. The colors in the first mitten are coming up in a random, specked pattern, while the second mitten is coming up with stripes.

When you get those bands of color in a hand-dyed yarn is referred to as “pooling” or “flashing.” Some people don’t like pooling and will go to great lengths to avoid it.

The easiest way to do that is to use either two balls of yarn or the two tails of one ball of yarn and alternate working two rows from each. You work two rows because it makes it easier to swap your working yarn: the knit row takes you out and the purl row brings you back.

Other options are to work pattern stitches since the texture will draw up the yarn at a different rate and possibly break up the pooling. There are pattern books devoted to knitting with hand dyed yarns to use the unique properties to their best advantage. You should be able to find them at your local yarn store.

The Pattern So Far

At this point you are probably wondering what pattern I’m using so you can knit a pair of warm mittens of your own.

Well, I’m making them up as I go along, but I can share what I have so far. Knit slowly so I can keep ahead of you, ok? Experienced knitters will probably have better luck since the pattern isn’t finished yet.

Size: 8 1/2″ circumference. (I’m aiming for 1/2″ of ease for an 8″ circumference hand.)

Yarn: Ella Rae Lace Merino Worsted. At least one ball, maybe two.

Needles: US 6 dpns, or size needed to obtain gauge.

Gauge: 5.5 sts and 8 rows = 1″ in st st in the round.

Cast on 16 sts using Judy’s Magic Cast On (8 sts each on two needles)

K16

First needle: K1, M1R, K across to last stitch, M1L, K1. Repeat for second needle. (4 sts increased)

K even, dividing sts over 4 needles.

Alternate increase row (increasing at the sides of the mitten as established) and knit even row to 48 sts.

Work even until piece measures 5 1/2″ from cast on (or desired length).

The thumb hole will be next, but I have to figure it out still.

Stay tuned!