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Stripe Study

May 2, 2013 in Louisa Harding, Sweaters, Tips, Uncategorized

Many knitters and crocheters do not like swatching.

They see it as a waste of time and yarn. Swatching delays their ability to get to the good part of actually starting a project.

There is often little the pro-swatching crowd can say to change their minds, but it doesn’t stop us from trying!

Swatching is usually done to ensure you’re knitting at the recommended pattern gauge. If your gauge is correct your finished project will be the correct size.

However, swatching can have other uses, such as testing out an unfamiliar technique or learning a new stitch pattern.

In this example, I used swatting to test out the colors I’m using for a striped top.

Meet Billy

Photo by Stephen Jessup. Louisa Harding book #127, Mila

Photo by Stephen Jessup.
Louisa Harding book #127, Mila

Billy is one of the patterns in Louisa Harding’s new Mila book. (Add Billy to your Ravelry queue.)

Mila is a new cotton blend yarn (91% Cotton, 9% Polyester Metallic). It comes in 109 yard (50 g) balls and has a recommended gauge of 4.5 sts on a US8 needle. You can see all 12 colors here. You can preview the rest of the book here.

When it was time to select my spring projects I knew I wanted to make something with Mila since cotton has a reputation of being hard to work with. Many people find it fatigues their hands.

I have not found that to be the case with Mila. The yarn’s chainette construction gives it spring and allows for smooth stitching.

When I was selecting my colors I’d only glanced through the book, but hadn’t settled on a project. I remembered many of the projects had striped versions and that seemed fun for the summer.

Louisa Harding Mila #9 - Venice

Louisa Harding Mila #9 – Venice

I started with blue, because it is one of my favorite colors. (You can really see the shiny bits in the blue ball.)

Louisa Harding Mila #1 - White

Louisa Harding Mila #1 – White

Then I selected white, because it goes with everything.

Louisa Harding Mila #6 - Tomato

Louisa Harding Mila #6 – Tomato

Then I took orange, because I was feeling frisky that day and orange and blue are paired on the color wheel.

As you can see, Louisa shows Billy in two colorways.

Photo by Stephen Jessup. Louisa Harding book #127, Mila

Photo by Stephen Jessup.
Louisa Harding book #127, Mila

The red version has long sleeves, while the green and yellow version has short sleeves. (I’m making the short sleeved version.)

I would say the options shown in the book are gradient.

My three colors are far from gradient!

If I’d been buying the yarn at my local yarn store with the book in hand I probably would have followed the example in the book and made a gradient version. Probably in blue. As it was I had to get creative.

But getting creative is one of the best parts of knitting and crocheting! We can make our projects in the colors we want!

Balancing Stripes

Go team!

Go team!

I remembered that dark colors are suppose to minimize the area they cover so blue would go at the bottom around my hips. White in the middle with orange at the top seemed logical, but I wasn’t sure.

I fished out my trusty copy of Maggie Rhigettie’s “Sweater Design in Plain English” and reread the section about colors influencing how we view a garment.

She says dark colors minimize and light colors draw the eye. Suddenly I wasn’t sure about having white around my waist!

The only way to be sure (and avoid knitting a sweater with which I wouldn’t be happy) was to swatch. I knit abbreviated versions of the stripe sequence to get an idea of how the colors would look together.

I started with orange in the middle, since it was the option I was most unsure about.

I don’t like it. Some people might prefer it (and that’s OK! ), but to me it a little too “sports team.”

Just right.

Just right.

Happily, the white in the middle was in line with my vision of the sweater.

It was safe for me to proceed.

The other thing all the swatching confirmed was that my gauge was correct. I was very surprised when my first swatch with the suggested needle size was spot on. Usually I have to go down a needle size!

Side by side.

Side by side.

Have you worked a swatch for a reason other than to check your gauge?

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Gauge

January 28, 2013 in miscellaneous, Tips, Uncategorized

This morning on our Facebook wall I posted a tip about gauge.

If you are getting more stitches than required you should go UP a needle size. If you are getting fewer stitches than required you should go DOWN a needle size.

While that’s technically correct, it confused a lot of people and enough people cried foul that I started second guessing myself. I decided to delete the post and try again with different wording.

Pattern gauge is 20 sts=4″
1) Your gauge is 22 sts=4″. Your sts are too small and you have too many sts per inch. You have to go UP a needle size to make bigger sts and get fewer sts per inch.
2) Your gauge is 18 sts=4″. Your sts are too big and you have too few sts per inch. You have to go DOWN a needle size to make smaller sts and get more sts per inch.

People understood that, but the mention of gauge opened a flood gate of questions (and suggestions). So I thought a blog post was in order to answer some of them.

Gauge IS Your Friend

 

If only people would realize how important gauge is! It can mean a whole difference in size from what you really want to fit!–Sharon S

Gauge is the number of stitches and rows per inch based on the size of your knit or crochet stitch.

Gauge can be the difference between a finished project fitting you or needing to be passed on to a larger or smaller relative or friend.

At some point every knitter and crocheter has had the excitement of finishing a project turn quickly to heartbreak when it doesn’t fit.

Gauge is an important aspect to a happy finished project, and yet it eludes some experienced stitchers and baffles new ones.

There are many things to know and remember about gauge, but there are two important ones with which I think you should start.

1) The needle size in the pattern is just a suggestion and you are free to change it. If the pattern calls for US8 needles and you have to use a US7 (or US6!) to get gauge that is OK.

2) If you want your finished project to have a fighting chance of matching the finished project in the pattern you should really try to get gauge.

Measuring Gauge

(This picture is of my Simple Tank from the Spring 2012 issue of Debbie Bliss magazine. Learn more about it in this blog post.)

Gauge is usually given in a pattern over a 4″ by 4″ square, but you should make your swatch larger than that.

Thank you! Also, cast on at least FIVE inches’ worth of stitches, so the edges and curl do not affect the middle stitches you should be measuring.–Amy K

The swatch needs to be wider than 4″ and at least 5″ in length. Sometimes the pattern will say after blocking as well. Move stitches to a waste yarn to measure or block then measure.–Diana H

It is important to measure over a larger section because you are less likely to cheat on your counting. If you measure 1″ worth of stitches you might ignore a partial stitch, but if you measure over 2″ or the full 4″ those partial stitches will be accounted for. As Diana suggests, your swatch should either be large enough that you aren’t measuring next to the needles, which can distort the fabric, or you should move the stitches to a piece of waste yarn.

I took a sweater design class with Shirley Paden and she suggested making an 8″ by 8″ swatch. She said we handle a small piece of fabric differently than we do a large piece and it can influence our gauge. Of course, we all choked at her suggestion because most people don’t like knitting a 4″ swatch! But when you’re designing a sweater from scratch an accurate gauge is very important.

I find I even have to be careful of my swatch. When I’m working with a new pattern or a new yarn my gauge be get off as I become more familiar with the project and my stitches become more relaxed.–Marsha S

Aside from how we hold the fabric, a larger swatch will allow you to become familiar with the stitch pattern and start relaxing as you work, which can change your gauge. Some people even suggest remeasuring your gauge after you’ve knit your project for awhile to ensure you are still accurate!

I measured. Now what?

As I said, the needle size in the pattern is just a suggestion and you can change needles. All knitters and crocheters are different. You might get gauge on a US8 needle while I get gauge on a US7 needle. As long as our gauges match the suggested gauge in the pattern we should both end up with a sweater that fits.

I read a rule of thumb somewhere that most people get a half a stitch for each needle size. So if you are getting 4 stitches per inch and you want 5 sts per inch you’ll have to go down 2 needle sizes. Test it for yourself, it could speed up your swatching in the future.

If you are using a number of different needle sizes attempting to get the pattern gauge you should not just switch seamlessly from one to the next. The different gauges in the fabric will pull on each other and make your measurements inaccurate.

Instead you should either start with a fresh piece of yarn or work a drop stitch row at the needle change. On the first row wrap the yarn twice, on the next row knit across and drop the second wrap. The slack from the dropped wrap will prevent pulling.

What happens if you can get the width in the swatch but not the length. That happens a lot and it doesn’t make any sense.–Paola

Getting width but not length does happen a lot and it goes back to every knitter being different. Generally, it’s more important to get the proper stitch gauge because you can more easily fudge the row gauge. If your stitch gauge is off you’ll have to start rewriting the pattern. If you row gauge is off it’s just a matter of working more or fewer rows to get the proper length.

The variables of gauge are why it’s a good idea to buy an extra ball of yarn so you don’t have to worry as much about running out of yarn.

How does this work if you want to do a pattern where the yarn is a worsted/aran (20 sts over 4″ using USA 6), but the gauge the pattern gets is 24sts over 4″ using a USA 4. Could I get away with using a dk weight yarn, or should I stick with the aran? Thanks in advance–Henrietta

Substituting a DK yarn for an Aran yarn is not advisable or should be approached with extreme caution.

There are many factors that can cause the pattern gauge to be different from the ball band gauge.

1) A textured stitch can created a denser gauge than the ball band, for instance, cables draw in while other stitch patterns can spread out. This is why it’s important to work the swatch in the stitch pattern being used in the garment.

2) The designer might have intentionally been using the yarn at a tighter or looser gauge than the ball band gauge. Socks are knit at a dense gauge for durability. Mittens might be worked at a tight gauge to keep out the wind. A scarf or cowl might be worked at a loose gauge to give the fabric drape.

3) Just because you can get gauge doesn’t mean the yarn “works.” When I was learning to knit I tried to substitute a silk yarn for a mohair yarn in a pullover pattern. Isn’t of getting the loose, airy garment in the magazine I ended up with a skintight monstrosity.

If you find that you just can’t get gauge take the approach of many of our fans who said, “The finished project will fit someone!” or check out “The Knitting Architect” on our main website. It walks you through the basics of knitting math and might give you the guidance you need to fudge the pattern to your gauge.

Swatch Uses

 

Ah, the classic dilemma of what to do with the swatch once you’ve measured your gauge.

The answer is: whatever you want.

Swatches make good pockets. Check ahead if your pattern calls for one. Also, it’s good to save your gauge with the journal of your pattern. That way you can use it in the future if you get a hole.–Lora

Many people suggest saving it in a note book with a record of the needle size and the ball band. This can be a handy reference if you are planning to use the yarn frequently. Although many things can influence your gauge it will speed the process up if you have notes to consult. As Lora suggests, you can also use the swatch for darning in the future.

Other people rip it out and use it in their project. I admit I fall into this camp, although I usually save the swatch until the end. I couldn’t tell you why. I just do. Keep in mind the yarn you used in the swatch will be a little crimped, especially if you washed it, and could behave a little differently than the fresh yarn.

If you don’t want to save it or use it in the project you can do stuff with it depending on the size.

You can make it into a cup cozy or maybe fingerless mitts. You can sew a bunch of swatches together and make a patchwork blanket. You can toss it on the table and call it a coaster. Get creative!

Gauge? We don’t need no stinking gauge.

There are some people who through caution to the wind and ignore gauge.

If you do a lot of gift or charity knitting and crocheting this works because you’ll find someone the garment will fit.

Gauge isn’t a critical for items like scarves and blankets because fit doesn’t matter. Just be prepared for your finished project to be bigger or smaller than expected and perhaps to use more or less yarn.

Here is an example of what can happen when you ignore gauge even on something that doesn’t need to fit like a shawl.

Over the summer I knit the Color Affection shawl. I thought to myself, “It’s just a garter stitch shawl. How important can a gauge swatch be?” And plunged to knitting with the recommended needle size.

It was a fun pattern and I loved how the colors of my Ella Rae Lace Merino yarn were looking together.

I’d read comments on Ravelry about how big the finished shawl is. Therefore I was very surprised when I finished my cast off and it was too large for a scarf and too small for a shawl.

It was a very strange in between size. I knew that blocking wouldn’t make it much bigger. I finally measured my gauge and discovered I had 24 sts to 4″ rather than the recommended 18 sts to 4″.

That’s a big difference!

To make it the proper size I would have to go up three needle sizes to a US 9.

I quickly adapted to the size. I don’t really try to wear it like a shawl over my shoulders. Instead I wear it looped around my neck like a big snuggly cowl.

As they say, the finished project will fit someone!

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Top Down Mittens: Thumb

January 5, 2013 in Ella Rae, Free, Mitts, Tips, Uncategorized

The top down mittens I’ve been knitting using Ella Rae Lace Merino Worsted yarn are almost done!

I’ve knit both thumbs and just have to finish off the cuff.

Now, I’m going to provide the pattern for the thumb, but you’ll have to remember you’re not locked into my numbers. You have to trust your knitter’s instinct and pick up more stitches to close up the holes in the corners.

The only thing you’ll have to worry about is to have a number divisible by 3 (so 18 or 21 stitches) in order to have the decreases work properly.

Late to the party? You can find the start of the mittens here. And the Thumb Gusset here.

Thumb Pattern

 

Transfer the stitches for the thumb from the holders to two needles. (16 sts)

Attach the working yarn to the bottom of the thumb and knit across 12 sts.

Pick up one or more on the side of the hand to close the gap.

Knit across 4 sts on top of thumb.

Pick up one or more on side of hand to close gap.

You will not have anywhere from 18 to 22 on your needles. Divide stitches as evenly as possible on three needles. Attach a marker to this row for measuring later.

Knit in the round until thumb measures about 1″ from picked up sts.

If necessary, decrease as many sts as necessary on the next round to get to either 18 or 21 sts. (So if you have 22 sts, K2tog once. If you have 20 sts, K2tog, k half way around, k2tog, k to end)

Knit one round even.

Begin thumb decreases: K2tog at the beginning of each needle. K remaining sts on needle. (3 sts decreased)

K one round even

Alternate decrease round and knit even round until 6 sts remain.

Cut yarn, leaving a generous tail. Draw tail through remaining sts and pull tight.

Finish knitting cuffs. Bind off in rib pattern.

Weave in ends. Go play in the snow.

See what I mean about using your knitter’s instinct for the thumb? It’s good practice in visualizing the end result you want and just making the stitches get there.

One my first thumb I had 19 sts after picking up in the corners. After knitting for an inch, I knit two together at the beginning of the round because I think it’s easier to decrease with even numbers.

On the second thumb I had 18 sts after picking up in the corners, so I didn’t have to worry about  decreasing until I got to the top of the thumb. The finished thumbs still match nicely.

Transferring Stitches

Now, an experienced knitter who has used a crochet chain provisional cast on won’t have any trouble transferring the stitches from the chain to the needles in order to knit the thumb.

A knitter who hasn’t used this method before might be puzzled. I had a little trouble getting picture of the process, but these should put you on the correct path.

If you do an internet search for “crochet provisional cast on” you’ll find options for videos and other blog posts about it. However, it might be easier to head down to your local yarn store for help in person. The other blog post pictures I saw did seem much more clear.

First, take a look at the picture up above and compare it to your own knitting. You can see nice, normal looking stitches pierced by the crochet chain. You’ll want to slide your knitting needle under the right hand leg of each stitch.

Really, you’ll just want to get the stitches onto your needle. You can worry about untwisting them later.

Once you’ve inserted your needle you can pull on the crochet chain and it will pop of out the knit stitch.

Some directions will have you just pull out the crochet chain all at once and trust your stitches not to run. I’m too nervous for that, so I take the more fiddly route and slowly pull the chain out as I go along.

You’ll have to decide how brave you are, and how slippery your yarn is, before you select a method.

This might be one of those techniques where you want to set up a practice piece to try it out before you apply it to your project.

The Length of a Cuff

You’ll remember from my last blog post that I was planning to knit the cuffs for at least 2 inches before working the thumb.

That’s just what I did.

The 2″ cuffs seemed rather short to me. Since I had plenty of yarn left I unpicked the bind off, reattached my yarn, and continued knitting the cuffs.

While the ribbing draws in, you might want to consider going down one needle size to make a more snug cuff. You might also want to knit a few more rows of stockinette stitch between the bottom of the thumb gusset and the start of the cuff ribbing.

Try it on and see what you think.

Our Facebook Fan Joyce S. says:

Way back when, I made mittens with a 2″-3″ cuff and a 1″ stocking knit before starting the thumb. Cuff would be long enough to tuck under coat sleeve and the space before the thumb made it fit better

After knitting on the cuff for a while I realized I didn’t know how long I should make it. The mittens are big for me, which is making it hard for me to judge the fit. They actually fit my husband nicely. I used his hand to judge the thumb size and the 2″ cuff was definitely short on him.

These mittens are for a friend in another state, so I can’t have her try them on. And they are sort of a surprise, so I don’t want to ask how long she’d like them.

Since I couldn’t ask my friend, I asked our Facebook fans.

The general range is from 2″ to 6″ with many people saying it depends on the person who will wear it. Many people like the cuff to be long enough to tuck into their coat sleeve.

Jennifer DD says:

Male or female? I’d use the Stephanie Purl McFee rules – use an index finger length or index finger to the first knuckle.

Amanda E gave me a giggle with her suggestion of:

Elbow length,’cuz elbow length mittens sound awesome.

Cali had an interesting guideline:

I do a standard hand width past the bottom of the thumb hole.

At this point, my cuffs are 4″ long and I still have a decent amount of yarn left.

I think I’m going to continue the cuff until I run out of yarn. That way my friend has options. She can wear them long or fold them down for extra warmth.

And if she doesn’t want a really long cuff she can ask one of the knitters near her (and there are plenty!) to shorten it for her. Since I’m ending at the cuff it will be a simple matter for them to unravel a bit and bind off.

What these long cuffs really mean is that my Top Down Mittens are a one skein project. Hooray! You will just need one hank of Ella Rae Lace Merino Worsted to knit your own pair.

This 100% Superwash Merino Wool yarn comes in a mix of 36 semi-solid and variegated colors. Which one would you use?

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12/12/12 Scarf Curling

December 20, 2012 in Juniper Moon Farm Yarns, Scarves, Tips, Uncategorized

When I thought up the 12/12/12 scarf in the middle of the night my idea was to capture the date in yarn.

I wasn’t alert enough to consider that 12 sts in stockinette stitch on either side would curl right up.

This issue became rapidly apparent to me when I finally started knitting the scarf that evening.

Stockinette Stitch curls

Stockinette Stitch sides curl right up

Of course, I had to follow through with the pattern as I’d presented it so you could see how it would turn out.

Curling stockinette stitch is something with which all knitters struggle. Either you are a new knitter wondering why it happens or you are an experienced knitter trying to prevent it.

In her book “The Principles of Knitting”, June Hemmons Hiatt explains the curling happens because of the shape of the stitches. She points out that the stitches are pulled tight at the bottom by the row below and flair out at the top. This creates tension in the fabric and causes the curl.

Combat the Curl!

Now that we know why the curl happens, what can we do to manage it?

First you have to decide whether it’s really an issue for your project.

Part of me wonders whether it really matters that a scarf is curling since it’s just going to get folded and bunched up anyway. But I do want options for how I wear it and don’t want my hard work to be hidden.

If this was part of a sweater the curling wouldn’t matter since the pieces would be stabilized when they are sewn together. In the case of a sweater, the curl only matters when you are trying to flatten the pieces out for seaming.

When I posted a picture of the curled up scarf on our Facebook page many people jumped in with suggestions about how to fix it.

Block It

You’ll want to take into account the washing instructions for the yarn and the durability of the project when deciding on a method.

For this scarf using Juniper Moon Farm Chadwick yarn I could soak it in cold water, gently remove the excess water, and pin it in place.

I could also use a spray bottle to mist the scarf before pinning it in place instead of soaking it.

Steaming it with an iron might work as well.

The problem with blocking is that it wears off. Especially on a scarf, which gets bunched up when you wear it.

I would need something more permanent.

Work a Slip Stitch Edge

This is just how it sounds. You slip the first stitch of the row instead of working it.

You slip it opposite of how the stitch is presenting. So if you are looking at a knit stitch you would slip it purlwise. If you’re looking at a purl stitch slip it knitwise.

This also makes a nice, neat edge.

Honestly, I didn’t think that would work in this case because there was such a wide expanse of stockinette to contend with. I didn’t even try it. but you might want to give it a whirl for educational purposes so you better understand the method and how it behaves.

Work an Edging

This was the winning idea.

Of course, by working an edging I was getting away from the 12/12/12 theme, but I decided an un-curled scarf was more important than the theme!

Cable & Rib sides

Ribbing helps a bit.

The first edging I tried was a 4×4 ribbing.

In long hand that translates to:

p4, k4, p4, k12, p4, k4, p4

K4, p4, k4, p12, k4, p4, k4

Repeat for 12 rows total.

P4, k4, p4, C12B, p4, k4, p4

etc.

You can see that after several rows of that I got bored and started adding cables to the K4 column on either side of the central cable.

The small cable on the right is crossed to the back while the small cable on the left is crossed to the front.

I started crossing them at the same time I crossed the central cable to make it easy to remember. For a different look you can cross the small cables at a different time than the central cable. For instance, if you were starting the scarf from the beginning, you can cross the small cables for the first time on the 6th row and then again 12 rows later on the 18th row, but still cross the big, central cable every 12th row.

Or cross the small cables more or less frequently. But you get the idea that there are many options.

As you can see in the picture the outside edges are still curling in a bit. I think in this case a slip stitch edge would help since it’s only fighting against 4 sts.

Seed stitch sides

Seed stitch flattens it out

The next edging I tried was seed stitch.

As you know the first row of seed stitch is a K1, P1 rib across. Then on the second row you purl the knits and knit the purls.

I maintained a two purl stitch buffer on either side of the central cable.

The seed stitch flattens the scarf right out. Like a pancake!

That’s because there aren’t smooth columns of stitches to pull against each other and cause the curl.

This is actually a pretty classic scarf pattern and you’ll find many examples of it at your local yarn store using different yarns.

The only problem with it is that all that switching back and forth between knits and purls can slow you down.

Full scarf

You can see it flattening out with the different side options.

Here is a picture of the full scarf. You can really see how the different sections are behaving. It’s interesting to see the scarf getting flatter as I progress through the different edging options.

Another edging that was suggested was garter stitch. You would knit the first and last 3 or 4 sts on each row every row.

You can combine the garter stitch edge with the rib and cable edging by working garter stitch over the first and last few stitches instead of purling them.

I suggest you use stitch markers to box off your garter stitch section so you don’t accidentally work too many stitches.

Something to keep in mind is that garter stitch has a different row gauge then stockinette stitch and might pull against the rest of the knitting if you make your garter stitch section to wide.

You’ll want to knit a generous swatch to test your options.

Personally I haven’t decided which edging to use, but I’m leaning toward the rib and cable option.

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Interweave Knits Summer 2012

April 30, 2012 in Debbie Bliss, Elsebeth Lavold, Uncategorized

The spring and summer issues of all your favorite knitting and crocheting magazines are hitting store shelves.

You could say they are popping up like flowers, if you were feeling cheesy. LOL

The Summer 2012 issue of Interweave Knits is full of lovely patterns for knitting and wearing in warmer weather.

Flynn Cardigan

Interweave Knits. Photo by Carmel Zucker

First up is the “Flynn Cardigan” designed by Maria Leigh.

Textured stripes composed of stockinette stitch bands alternated with lace bands make up this easy wearing cardigan. Great for covering up if the air conditioner gets ambitious or to protect against a brisk evening breeze at the beach.

This cardigan is knit using Debbie Bliss Amalfi a 70% Cotton, 15% Viscose, 10% Linen, 5% Silk blend. There are six new colors this season. The sweater in the magazine is knit in color #32014 coral, 15 (16, 18, 20, 22) balls.

Popsicle Dress

Interweave Knits. Photo by Carmel Zucker

Stripes of color and lace jazz up the hem and collar of the Popsicle Dress designed by Nancy Eiseman.

This sleek dress is knit using the delicious Debbie Bliss Bella a 85% Cotton, 10% Silk, 5% Cashmere blend, which combines all the qualities of softness and drape you’d want in a spring garment. Five new colors were added this season. The dress in the magazine is knit in color #16003 grey (MC), 10 (11, 12, 14, 15) balls; and #16007 orange (CC), 3 (4, 4, 4, 5) balls.

Dawn Dress

Interweave Knits. Photo by Carmel Zucker

The Dawn Dress designed by Andrea Rangel has cables on the bodice and a flattering empire waist.

This dress is knit using Elsebeth Lavold Hempathy a 41% Cotton, 34% Hemp, 25% Modal blend that has summer written all over it. This season sees six new colors added to the pallet. The dress in the magazine is knit using color #04 white beach, 15 (18, 21, 22, 25, 28, 30) balls.

Learn more about this issue on the Interweave Press website. Then pick up a copy, and the yarn for your new project, at your local yarn store.

Knitscene Summer 2012

Speaking of Hempathy…if you don’t think you’ll finish the Dawn Dress in time to wear it this spring, check out the Clover Camisole from the Summer 2012 issue of Knitscene magazine.

Clover Camisole

Knitscene magazine. Photo by Nathan Rega, Harper Point Photography

Designed by Heather Zoppetti, this camisole calls for 4 (5, 6, 6, 7) skeins of Elsebeth Lavold Hempathy in color #17 vivid green/

In addition to the pretty lace detail near the neckline, this top has an interesting lace panel on the side. You can see it in the extra pictures on the Knitting Daily website.

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Off The Needles: Caracara Scaruffle

April 17, 2012 in Queensland Collection, Scarves, Uncategorized

Spring is in the air! That means it’s time for a new profile picture wearing something hand knit in spring colors.

Queensland Collection Caracara was actually introduced in the fall. This yarn is a 50% Acrylic, 30% Nylon, 20% Kid Mohair with approx 259 yards per 25g that knits to 1.5-2 sts per inch on a US 3-8 needle. However, as it works up into light, fluffy garments it is also good for these early spring days when you want to be warm but also free from the weight of your winter coat.

I’ve had one ball of color #3 – Seagreen, Mint, Blue Violet – on my desk all these months waiting for the right one-skein project to come along. These colors remind me of the sea side and I wanted a project that would enhance that feeling.

Finished Sacruffle

The scarf construction shows off the stripes.

The right pattern finally presented itself in the Scaruffle pattern by Bess Haile. You can find this pattern in “The Knitter’s Book of Yarn” by Clara Parkes.

Now this isn’t one of our books, but you should be able to find it at your local yarn store or even your local book store. This book has a lot of information about how yarn is made with discussions of spin and ply and how to expect the different fibers to behave. All that information can not only help you appreciate yarn more, but also understand what to expect when you make a project or need to substitute yarn because you can’t find, or don’t like, the yarn called for in a pattern.

The Scaruffle pattern calls for 227 yards of a fingering weight mohair yarn, which meant Caracara would be an excellent choice. Other good options would be Debbie Bliss Angel and Party Angel with its metallic flair, or Louisa Harding’s Simonetta which also has a bit of glamor.

Simonetta

Louisa Harding Simonetta would be a good choice as well.

This scarf is knit lengthwise using short rows. I think it would be good for an advanced beginner because it is basically garter stitch, but would be a good introduction to short rows. Many knitters get stressed out the first time they work short rows. “What do you mean I’m not working all the stitches?!” they ask. A project like a scarf, which doesn’t have to fit, would be a good place to test this technique since there will be less pressure to get the finished project “right.”

Of course, by leaving those stitches unworked and returning to them later you can introduce curves and shaping into your project. This is very hand for places like sock heels and toes where you want to knitting to follow the shape of your body. They are also useful for adding bust shaping to sweaters. Knitty.com has an interesting article about using short rows for shaping.

On this scarf, the short rows make a gentle ruffle. When working short rows on a large project like this I find it helpful to place a stitch marker after I turn the work. The stitch makers make it easier to know when to stop and turn on future rows. They also make it easier to ensure I’ve worked the same number of short rows on each end since I can just count the markers rather than looking for the little gap between sections.

Scaruffle Kerfuffle

Back to my scarf.

I cast on during my Friday knitting group and just whipped right through it.

But then a classic knitting problem befell me. I ran out of yarn before I could cast off!

It was my own fault. If I had followed the pattern I would have been fine, but I wasn’t measuring my progress. Instead, I got greedy and just kept knitting. Lace weight yarn always seems like it will last forever. And, since I was working short rows, the more I knit the shorter and quicker the rows were to work. I was sure I could get one more row out of it.

Scaruffle progress

So close, but no cast off!

Sympathy and suggestions poured in when I posted my dilemma on Facebook. Do I rip out a row or keep going in a different color?

The two most popular suggestions were:

Take a crochet hook and do a slip stitch all the way around its almost the same as a cast off and you don’t need yarn to do it.–Debra

Starting at the end w/out the tail pass one loop over the next stitch until you reach the tail…and walaa you have castoff with out ripping out.–Lori

Veronica suggested that I could unravel my swatch and use that yarn. Usually I’m a firm believer in swatching, but hadn’t this time since it was just a little scarf.

I also posted a picture of my scarf with the other Caracara colors I had nearby. Most people liked either the color at 4 o’clock or 6 o’clock.

Caracara colors

This year's colors. There will be new ones in the fall!

But in the end I chickened out on adding a second color. I took a deep breath, frogged the last row, and cast off normally.

I think it was worth the effort.

Finished scaruffle

Happy spring!

As you can see, Caracara is a self striping yarn. The lengthwise construction of the scarf really draws the colors out creating a lovely effect. The combination of construction and colors makes the finished scarf look more complicated than it is.

You can see a similar striping effect in the shawl pattern in Jenny Watson Designs Book #17, which features sweaters and accessories using Caracara.Caracara Shawl

But don’t feel like you have to limit yourself to scarves, Caracara with make soft, warm sweaters as well. This pattern is also in book #17.

Caracara pulloverHappy knitting!

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Debbie Bliss Magazine Spring/Summer 2012

February 28, 2012 in Debbie Bliss, shawl, Sweaters, Uncategorized

The new issue of Debbie Bliss Magazine hit store shelves earlier this month. Since it is chock full of good stuff it takes a while to consider the patterns and select which ones to highlight.

When I get a new magazine first thing I do is flip through quickly to see what grabs my attention (of course this usually happens in the store as I’m deciding to buy it).

Then I like to have a more leisurely read, perhaps with a nice cup of tea.

Simple Tank

Simple Tank (#2)

Hands down my favorite project is the Simple Tank (project #2)  in the “Simple Stripes” section.

This top uses Rialto 4-Ply a 100% Extra Fine Merino yarn. This is a very soft, fingering weight yarn. The pattern doesn’t take much yarn at all (from 5 to 7 balls depending on what size you are making) and should work up quickly. There is some gentle side shaping, which should make the top very flattering.

The stripes are narrow enough that it should be possible to carry the unused yarns up the side thus avoiding a needing to weave in a million ends.

Of course the fuchsia and tangerine stripes are very stylish right now. They aren’t my usual colors (I’m much more of a red and blue girl), but I think I’ll stick with them. It’s good to work outside your comfort zone sometimes.

If you don’t feel like challenging your color sensibilities Rialto 4-Ply comes in 27 colors, which makes it easy to change them up if the fuchsia and tangerine aren’t speaking to you like they are to me.

See other patterns using Rialto 4-Ply in the “Beach Belles” book.

Lace Stole

Lace Stole (#10)

The next pattern that caught my eye was the pink Lace Stole (project #10) in the “Touch of Blush” section.

The “Touch of Blush” section includes four patterns (two tops and two shawls) using the new Rialto Lace yarn. Continuing the Rialto line, Rialto Lace is also 100% Extrafine Merino wool. It comes in 429 yard (50 gram) balls, has a suggested gauge of 8 sts to the inch on a US 2 needle, and comes in 20 colors.

The Lace Stole is worked on US6 needles and requires three balls of yarn. I like the leaf motif marching up the stole. This piece looks like it would be an attractive way to chase the chill on a spring evening.

See other patterns using Rialto Lace in the new “Rialto Lace” book.

Openwork cardigan

Openwork Cardigan (#28)

Another attractive chill chaser is the Openwork Cardigan (project #28) in the “Summer Shimmer” section. There is a tunic, a shrug, and a skirt in the section in addition to this feminine cardigan.

Design by Nina Sagulin, the cardigan requires three to five balls (depending on the size) of Party Angel yarn. Party Angel is a delicious 72% Superkid Mohair, 24% Silk, 4% Metallic Polyester blend available in 10 colors.

The cardigan is knit on US10 needles, so don’t let the fine gauge of the yarn intimidate you. The lace pattern is also fairly simple with the wrong side rows work in plain purl stitch, which gives you a chance to rest.

I like this cardigan because it’s lightweight, but I know it will be warm because the halo from the mohair will help trap air. This would be a great garment over a summer dress out in the evening. I think the styling would also lend itself to wearing in the office when the air conditioning gets too enthusiastic.

If you don’t want the glitter of Party Angel for office wear, you can substitute Angel yarn a 76% Super Kid Mohair, 24% Silk blend. Six new colors brings your total color choices up to 24.

See other patterns using Party Angel in the leaflet of the same name. See other pattern using Angel in the book of the same name and the book “A Fine Romance”.

Moss Stitch Chair Throw

Moss Stitch Chair Throw (#19)

One of the nice things about the Debbie Bliss Magazine is that in addition to garments there are usually projects for the home as well.

The Moss Stitch Chair Throw (project #19) in the “Coffee and Cream” section is 22 3/4 inches by 43 inches, just the right size for covering up without getting overwhelmed.

It looks so soft and luscious in the magazine I just want to snuggle into it.

The throw is knit using nine hanks of Paloma and US 15 needles, which means it should work up quickly. Paloma is a new 60% Baby Alpaca, 40% Merino Wool blend that comes in 16 colors. With the high alpaca content this yarn is like knitting with a cloud. Finished projects are both warm and soft.

If I was going to make this throw I’d go with either color #9-Basil or #8-Mustard, either of which would match my decor. But the smart thing would be to go with color #7-Rust, which would match my Golden Retrievers, since I suspect I would have to share it with them.

See garments us Paloma in the book of the same name.

Napkin rings

Napkin Rings (#22)

A project I wouldn’t have to share with Samson & Baru would be the Napkin Rings (project #22) from the same section.

One ball of Eco Baby will make all four rings. A cardboard tube, such as from a roll of gift wrap, is used to give the rings structure.

Eco Baby is a 100% Organic Cotton yarn available in 24 colors that comes in 137 yard balls.

The napkin rings should be quick to make and easy to show off–just have a dinner party! If your knitting project queue is long the rings will be a great summer project when you don’t want to be covered in yarn.

The magazine includes patterns for place mats and a table runner to complete your table’s outfit.

See other projects using Eco Baby in the new “Celebrating Family” book.

And Much More!

I’ve highlighted a few of the patterns in the magazine that have caught my eye. With 30 projects, you see something new each time you pick it up. I haven’t even mentioned the cute garments for kids and babies!

Honestly there is a cute Striped Sweater (project #16) in the “Kids Ahoy!” section that I wish came in my size!

And what would a magazine be without articles?

There is a good tutorial about seams with nice clear, big pictures.

An interview with Anna Hrachovec, the designer of the “Knitting Mochimochi” book, along with her pattern for teeny chickens.

And an article about Debbie and her daughter Nell’s visit to Canada in September.

Quite a bit to keep you busy as you wait for spring to arrive.

Look for the magazine at your local yarn store (where you can pick up the yarn for your favorite project as well) or at your local book store.

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Capelets

January 19, 2012 in Cowls, Debbie Bliss, Elsebeth Lavold, Louisa Harding, shawl, Uncategorized

For the secret superhero in you. Because we all know women are superheroes when it comes to the amount we juggle.

And why not look awesome and stay warm while doing it?

You can’t remove a coat with flourish and pizzazz and instantly demand attention. The cape (and capelet) does this.–Helen (@Anchorgirls on Twitter)

Now when you think of a cape you probably envision Superman’s or Batman’s ankle skimming garment. I’m sure you can knit a floor length cape if you want, but I think these elbow length, or maybe waist length, capelets are more practical.

First, they won’t take as long to knit as a floor length one. Second, you’ll probably have more opportunities to wear them.

You’ll find capelets are more structured than a shawl and more flattering than a poncho. They are good transition pieces for the spring when we shed our heavy coats but still need a little something to keep warm. They are also useful during the winter if you live in a drafty old house like I do and want to wrap up rather than crank the heat!

In Magazines

Vogue Knitting Cape

Vogue Knitting Winter 2011/12, photo by Rose Callahan

The pattern for this “Cabled Cape” is in the Winter 2011/12 issue of Vogue Knitting, which hit newsstands at the beginning of the month. It is designed by Yoko Hatta and takes 9 balls of Noro Retro.

Retro is a 64% Wool, 24% Silk, 12% Angora blend that comes in 110 yard hanks. This is sure to be a warm cape and the touch of angora will give it a soft halo.

Northanger Hood

From "Jane Austen Knits" in Silky Wool

While Hatta’s Cabled Cape has a poncho like structure with slits for your arms for ease of movement, the “Northanger Abby Hood” is more of a traditional cape with an open front.

This pattern, designed by Catherine Salter Bayar, is in “Jane Austin Knits 2011.” This magazine is a special publication from Interweave Press. It came out a few months ago, but should still be available.

The Northanger Abby Hood uses 4 skeins of Elsebeth Lavold Silky Wool. This yarn is a 45% Wool, 35% Silk, 20% Nylon blend that comes in 192 yard hanks. There are 6 new colors this season, so it will be easy to select one that matches your wardrobe.

Louisa Harding

Poetry by Louisa Harding

Poetry from Louisa Harding

“Poetry” from the Three Graces book is another lacy, split front capelet. It uses a mix of Grace Hand Dyed, Grace Hand Beaded, and Grace Silk & Wool.

This pretty garment can top off a casual outfit but is still elegant enough to wear with a party dress.

Anise from Louisa Harding

Anise in Millais

“Anise,” is from the “Absinthe” book.

Knit using 5 balls of Millais, a 50% Wool, 50% Acrylic blend that comes in 65 yard balls, this garment is a little more substantial than Poetry featuring a textured stitch instead of lace.

Wear it under your winter coat instead of a scarf, then keep using it alone when Spring makes a return.

Debbie Bliss

Shoulder Cape from Debbie Bliss

Shoulder Cape knit in Riva

Another substantial capelet is the “Shoulder Cape” from the “Riva” book.

The pattern takes from 4 to 6 balls of Riva, a chunky,  70% Wool, 30% Acrylic blend that comes in 88 yard balls and 12 colorways. This cape is worked flat and seamed, so it should be easy for a beginner to tackle. The chunky yarn means it will work up quickly.

Cabled Capelet from Debbie Bliss

Cabled Capelet in Cashmerino DK

For a little more challenge, consider the “Cabled Capelet” from the “Charlestown Collection” book.

This garment has a more tailored look with four big buttons highlighting the front.

It is knit using Cashmerino DK, a 55% Merino Wool, 33% Microfiber, 12% Cashmere blend that comes in 121 yard balls and 46 colors. This yarn will knit up into a wonderfully soft and warm garment.

Lace Capelet from Debbie Bliss

Lace Capelet in Debbie Bliss Angel

For a capelet that is lightweight, but still warm, you’ll want the “Lace Capelet” from the “A Fine Romance” book. This feminine project takes between 2 to 3 balls of Angel yarn.

A 76% Super Kid Mohair, 24% Silk blend, Angel won’t weigh you down, but it will keep you warm because of the air caught in the fuzz from the Kid Mohair. There are now 24 colors of Angel available for all your moods.

And if your mood is glamorous, you can just as easily use Party Angel, a 72% Superkid Mohair, 24% Silk, 4% Metallic Polyester blend. The Metallic Polyester will give your capelet just a hint of shine.

Get Stitching

As you can see, capelets come in a wide variety of styles. From simple cowl-like garments like the Riva Shoulder cape to textured beauties like Anise and delicate shoulder covers like the Lace Capelet.

These are just a few of the patterns we have available. You can see more cape patterns on our website.

Now that you’ve seen the potential, use the “find a store” feature on our website to locate a local yarn store near you and prepare to cover your shoulders in style.

Then visit us on Facebook and share a picture of your finished project. We love to see what you’re making.

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Crocheted Ornament Toconao

December 19, 2011 in Araucania, Free, Uncategorized

I continue to be enamored with making Christmas ornaments.

Two ornaments

My ornament collection is growing!

Today’s ornament is crocheted using Araucania Toconoa yarn. This 100% Merino Wool yarn comes in 139 yard (100 gram) hanks. The suggested knitting gauge is 4.5 sts per inch on a US7 needle.

The Araucania line is inspired by ancient Chilean crafts made from hand painted natural yarns. The Araucania Yarns company supports local job development, which is pretty cool when you think about it.

Toconoa yarn has a nice, round shape, which gives plump, crisp stitches when you knit. The finished fabric is cushy and squishable, making it nice for garments and accessories.

Yesterday’s ornament, crocheted with Mirasol Kutama, was worked through the back loops giving the finished fabric a smooth appearance. Today’s ornament is crocheted through the front loop. This leaves the back loops free to create an interesting ridge around the fabric.

Of course if you don’t like the ridge just work through the back loop or under both loops.

Toconoa ornament closeToconao Crocheted Ornament

Materials:

Yarn: Araucania Toconoa Solid in color #525, one skein.

Crochet Hook Size G

2.5 inch Styrofoam ball

Scrap yarn or stitch markers to mark rounds.

Gauge: 4.5 sc x 4 rounds/1″

NOTE: US crochet terms used throughout.

NOTE: Work through front loops only. Work in continuous rounds without turning.

Pattern:

Chain 4. Join with slip stitch to form a ring.

Round 1: 6 sc in ring

Round 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12 sc)

Round 3: 2 sc in each sc around (24 sc)

Round 4: 1 sc in each sc around (24 sc)

Round 5: *Sc, 2sc in next sc, repeat from * around (36 sc)

Rounds 6-10: work even in sc

Round 11: *Sc, sc2tog, repeat from * around (24 sc)

Round 12: 1 sc in each sc around (24 sc)

Insert ball. You will work the rest of the cover with the ornament form in place.

Round 13: sc2tog around (12 sc)

Round 14: sc2tog around (6 sc)

Round 15: 1 sc in each sc around (6 sc)

Form Loop: Chain 12. Join with slip stitch to top of ornament. Fasten off.

Make tassel: Wrap yarn around your hand or a stiff piece of cardboard 20 times or to desired fullness. Tie a strand of yarn around one end of the loops to synch. Cut loops on opposite end to make fringe. Attach to bottom of ornament.

Weave in ends.

Variations

It would be a simple matter to change the look of the ornament by adding stripes or beads.

As I said at the beginning, you don’t have to make the ridge.

Make some with tassels and some without.

Stay tuned tomorrow for the first knit ornament!

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Spotlight: Euro Yarns Blitzen

October 17, 2011 in Euro Yarns, Free, Scarves, Uncategorized

As any knitter or crocheter knows, chunky yarns paired with big needles or hook, make for fast-to-finish projects.

Blitzen close up

Blitzen has a textured base and pompoms.

Sometimes you need a quick project for a last minute gift. Other times you need something you can finish fast to “cleanse your palate” from a long term project.

The new yarn “Blitzen” from Euro Yarns can satisfy that need. This 100% wool yarn comes in 110 yard hanks and has a suggested gauge of 1 to 2 stitches per inch on US15 – US 17 needles. I used a P hook for my crochet swatch. The yarn comes in six colors. I used color #4-Red, Violet for my swatches.

The yarn is a tonal colored pencil roving with a tight yarn binder, which gives it a rippled texture. This is interspersed with chenille like tufts creating elongated pompoms.

Blitzen knit swatch

The pompoms don't interfer with knitting.

The pompoms are very soft and flexible so they hardly impede the ability to knit. They wrap right around the needle and the loose gauge on the large needles allows them to slide through the stitches easily.

The free pattern on our website requires one skein of Blitzen yarn and will make a scarf about 8″ wide by 68″ long. A very generous size for wrapping up against the winter wind! The scarf is knit in an elongated stitch created by working yarn overs which are dropped on the next row. It should be easy for a beginner knitter to tackle and a breeze for an experienced knitter.

Blitzen scarf

One skein makes this generous scarf.

The pompoms also did not interfere with crocheting. When working a double crochet stitch I was able to incorporate the pompom right into the stitch. However, I thought that squished them down a bit and ruined the fun of the yarn. But that did depend on which side of the fabric you were looking at.

Then I tried working a mesh pattern by chaining 5, skipping 5 dc, and single crocheting in the next dc. On the next row I chained 5 and single crocheted into the ch 5 space of the previous row.

Blitzen crocheted

Double crochet and mesh stitch both work.

I found this gave me more flexibility in dealing with the pompoms. I could either work them into the chain stitch OR I could fold the pompom in half and skip to the smooth yarn on the other side to make my stitch. This was a little smoother to work and made the pompoms stand up in a very perky manner.

I’m sure one skein of Blitzen will make a generous sized crocheted scarf worked in either method.

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